VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1912-1928 1928 chevy water pump

I would like to restore my 1928 chevy water pump.
How does this unit come apart?? By the look's of thing I have to remove the pulley but don't want to break it, what would be the best way to open up this unit for a full rebuild?


Keeping vintage Chevy alive.

I got mine apart with a 3 jaw puller. It's just a friction fit but a pretty tight one. You'll need to put a socket smaller than the shaft between the shaft and the puller.

Arend I have thought of useing the 3 jaw puller but had concern of cracking the metal pulley.
The puller I have is to big so will need to get a smaller one.
The shaft and pulley seem to slide back and forth in the pump assembly, about 1/2" should this be tighter?
Is there a measurment for clearances when you put the pump back together?

Keeping vintage Chevy alive

The shaft and pulley should not move back and forth at all. There should be no "end play".

What is the best way to get rid of this end play?

Keeping vintage Chevy alive.

I would begin by finding out what comes in the rebuild kit from say Garry Wallace. Perhaps the parts in there will do the trick. If it is too worn, then Gary also sells rebuilt pumps.

Bushings seem to be in great shape, but the baffle shows signs of rust, would like to replace.
I think new packing would'nt hurt either.

Keeping vintage Chevy alive.

The pulley probably needs to be pressed onto the pump shaft further to eliminate the end play of the shaft.

I don't recall either of the pumps I had apart having a baffle or do you mean the impeller. Rust doesn't hurt there and no one will see it. I would be more concerned about polishing the shaft, especially where the packing and the bushings fit on it. Otherwise it's going to leak even with new packing. To do this you will need it apart.

Are you saying that the baffle inside the head needs to be replaced?

The baffle that I mentioned sits right behind the rotor of the water pump, Part # 346708 look's like a large washer with a small bent guide that inserts into the water inlet (inside the pump).


Keeping vintage Chevy alive.

That is the one. The Filling Station has them at a decent price. Our comrade in arms that owns the place is doing a good job stocking parts for our old Chevrolets.

MrMack
I have two pumps one is a 2 blade fan hub, with ID #A 346707-17,as marked on the pump with # 348601-40 SM pulley.(for the car series)
The other pump is a 4 blade fan with Id #346707-24 as marked on the pump with no fan hub, Pulley #G 345559-14 SM. (For the truck series)
I was wondering if the 4 blade pump would be a better choice for cooling In a 1928 chevy national.
Or should I stick with the 2 blade pump.
Also looking for date's on these pumps, I think they are the late 1926 pump's, Any ideas?????


Keeping vintage Chevy alive.

A good many 28 drivers that primarly drive in parades (slow, stop and go driving) opt to run the 4 blade fans, I get plenty of air thru my 28 radiator (shrouded) with the 2 bladed fan and I have driven it in a couple of local parades of 20 to 30 minutes on days when the outside air temp was 100 degrees F and never had a boil over. I don't have a 4 bladed fan for the 28. You have to have a good water pump and good packing in it and a good clean radiator and cooling system. To keep my cooling system clean I run 50% distilled water and 50% Zerex or Prestone coolant.

Also be sure the timing is right on and the advance...retard is working correctly and never run a parade or drive with it in RETARD because the engine will get hotter than a Mama Chihuahua in season!

Hey MrMack
Talking about rad fluid, I heard tell that some antifreeze's are corrosive to these older motors, and that there is a special rad fluid that is not corrosive to these older cast block's, can you shed some light on this????


Keeping vintage Chevy alive.

I know some of the older coolants were corrosive to aluminum on newer cars, but that was years ago. Most if not all coolants today are safe for all metals. I highly doubt modern coolants will do any damage to the metals in our old cars. Some cars have specific requirements such as VW uses a special coolant that i believe is an organic acid and can't be mixed with anything else. Doing so will instantly sludge up the cooling system with devastating results. I also recall that BMW was real clear about not using coolant with silicates, again due to adverse results with metal used. I know of no coolant that will harm cast iron. The only thing that might be an issue would be a brass bushing in the water pump if there is one and perhaps the aluminum and or brass in a new rad. But again modern coolants are safer on those metals. I think either Green or yellow Prestone will be fine. Skip the orange as it is too close to the evil Dexcool.