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Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 50
Shade Tree Mechanic
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OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 50 |
When I began my 1946 Fleetmaster rebuild project about 5 years ago the engine ran well. After painting reassembly, etc. the engine was found to be seized up. I drained the oil and found about a gallon of water! The chassis and engine were covered and stored outside. A leak in my cover or accumulated condensation, I don't know. Anyway, I freed up the engine, got the car together and it's been running 63 miles on the odom so far. I've changed the oil twice, and the white "smoke" steam persists. Are there places in the engine that might hold water, like the dip tray for example? Also, the oil level has lost about 2 quarts so far. It's not burning it, the cylinders all show 100 lbs compression. The oil on the dip stick is clear now, but the oily steam persists. Amy ideas on how to clean up my act?
Thanks
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Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 19,758 Likes: 64
ChatMaster - 15,000
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ChatMaster - 15,000
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 19,758 Likes: 64 |
Is the steam coming from the road draft tube or tail pipe or valve cover or ? That will help determine where the problem is located. With 63 miles I have to assume that means over an hour of running. It only takes 10-15 miles to get the engine hot enough to clear the water out of anyplace that it might have accumulated. Of course that is if it is not being replenished.
How Sweet the roar of a Chevy four!
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,701 Likes: 141
ChatMaster - 25,000
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ChatMaster - 25,000
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,701 Likes: 141 |
Are there places in the engine that can hold water? Yes, but after changing oil twice the water should have been pretty much removed. If you run the engine with water in the oil, the oil will turn cloudy. You would not have that much condensation from just setting outside and not being run. If the cooling system has anti-freeze in it the water would have been colored. I would change oil one more time and see what happes. Fill with just 4 qts. to save oil. Is there anti-freeze in the cooling system now?
Gene Schneider
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Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 50
Shade Tree Mechanic
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OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 50 |
I changed the oil, and added some Lucas additive. It cut down the smoke quite a bit, and I'm sure the water is all cleared out of the engine by now. Still smokes more than I would like. Though I restored the rest of the car, I'm really not tooled up to rebuild the engine myself. I took it to an engine shop and was told that "valve seals or oil rings" need to be replaced, I should get the parts and bring it back in. Raw oil is being thrown out the exhaust. Does this make sense? It also brings up other questions: Is it likely the origional or correct 216 for the Jan 47-46? Engine casting no. EAA679346 Ser. no. 21EK-A 56785 How extensive rebuild work do I really need? Compression is about 100 on all cylinders, & no coolant or external oil leaks. What parts do I orderer and from whom? Is this minor engine work, or should I look for a better engine? Does the engine have to be pulled to effect the repairs? I need a voice of experience on how to proceed.
Thanks
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,701 Likes: 141
ChatMaster - 25,000
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ChatMaster - 25,000
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,701 Likes: 141 |
The 1946-47 engine did not have valve stem seals. They were "new" for 1948. There were in umbrella type caps that sat on top of the valve spring cap and valve stem. They prevented the oil from running down the valve guides. They usually caused more valve noise as the engine got miles on it and were thrown away. If excess oil is running down the guides the engine will puff some blue smoke after restarting it after a long run or after a longer period of running at idle speed. The rings could make it smoke when backing off. The rings could be stuck or the oil return holes plugged with carbon. Removing the plugs and dumping in about 2 Oz. of Marvel Mystery Oil (or some other solvent) and letting soak for a day or two may help. To overhaul the engine it can stay in the chassis (grind valves, replace rings and pins and adjust bearing) .....to rebuild it must be removed. A good 50 or 100 miles trip at higher speeds may also help. EAA si a 1947 engines.....Don't buy any parts until you know what you need and the engine would need to be disassembled to find this out. The better engine may be worse than what you have 
Gene Schneider
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,701 Likes: 141
ChatMaster - 25,000
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ChatMaster - 25,000
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,701 Likes: 141 |
I should have mentioned.....I can send you a picture of the umbrella type caps and then you can look and see if they are still on your engine. I have some but don't know if I have a complete set.
Gene Schneider
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