VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1937-1945 Clutch Adjustment Problem

As part of a major overhaul of my 1937 Master Delux I resurfaced the pressure plate and flywheel, relined the disc and found a new release bearing (throwout). When I put everything back together I ran into a problem--I couldn't adust the clutch linkage. The release levers are flush with the clutch cover and when I push on the clutch pedal the clutch fork/release bearing barely touches the release sleeve. I tore into it and pulled the transmission and have everything out, right down to the flywheel. I'm really puzzeled--any ideas??

Does the new linings on your clutch disc have the correct thickness? Also, when your flywheel was resurfaced, did the machine shop also remove the same amount on the flywheel flange as they did on the flywheel face?

I thought about those questions and happened on the solution by dumb luck--when the transmission was rebuilt a new cover was installed over the shaft that goes into the clutch assembly and it was too large for the sleeve that the throw-out bearing pushes against to slide over it and it jamed the clutch release levers into the pressure plate when I bolted in the transmission. A real hassel pulling everything out to get to it but it's at the transmission shop getting fixed. Thanks for your help!

Thrasher
In light of your last post I would suggest that you check that the clutch disc centre and cover fingers have not been damaged in the process.
Tony

Good point--they looked ok and I installed the pressure plate last night--hoping to have the transmission installed this weekend. I'll let you know how is goes, thanks again for the advise and help.

dt

Hello Tony,

Well, I've run into a problem--I have everything hooked-up to the throw-out bearing point and the clutch levers are loose and when I depress the clutch they don't disengage the pressure point. Any ideas on what is wrong?

AS you can see I continue to have problems getting my clutch in working order--you mentioned the thickness of the clutch disk since I had mine relined. Can you tell me what the correct thickness should be? If it was too thick would it have an effect on my clutch levers that are floppy-loose when the pressure plate is bolted on?

The only place I can find the thickness of the disc is in some 1946 truck material. There it shows .132" to .138"
Now the thickness varies as the linings are backed with a wavy spring that flattens out when the pressure plate squeezes the disc against the flywheel. The "give" makes for a more gental clutch application.
There should be enough adjustment to compensate for any material removed from the flywheel or pressure plate.
Were the levers on the press. plate disturbed?
If the disc were too thick the clutch would not release as it would drag on the flywheel and press. plate.
Just what parts other than the disc were replaced or "rebuilt"?

might I suggest removing the flywheel and assemble the clutch on the bench to observe it's operation while assembling.


is the pressure plate of this vehicle similar to a 31?

Just a thought; from under the car, see if the disc is in contact with the flywheel. It's an easy check to determine if the disc is installed reversed. Is so, the disc won't contact the flywheel but will fully compress the pressure plate and lock the assembly up.

I have the cone on the disk facing the pilot bearing and it appears that is correct position--right??

The center of the clutch, the part with the coil springs in it, should be towards the pressure plate. This part is off-set and would rest aginst the center of the flywheel if the disc is backwards.

Hello Gene,

When I had the pressure plate out the clutch levers look ok. I had a machine/brake shop reline the clutch disk and it looked normal to me. I had the fly wheel plate resurfaced which included both the area where the disk sits and the edge where the pressure plate is bolted on. I also had the pressure plate resurfaced. I stopped by the machine shop today and explained the problem and it was suggested that I bring all the parts (including the flywheel) into the shop so they can check the clearances. I'm thinking the clutch levers might need be be built-up so they make a quicker contact with the pressure plate as the throw-out bearing is making contact. Oh, and I replaced the throw-out bearing and the ball the fork rides on. Whew, I'm tired thinking about this!

dt

I have been there my self over the last 40 years and some time wonder why I put my self through this. I hate to be a quitter and found its better to back-off for a few days and regroup my thoughts.
I would say taking in all the parts mentioned would be a good move.
Also would check the T.O bearing and the plate that presses aginst it for proper thickness. I have a new set if demensions are needed. The kits also comes with the pressure plate levers and springs.

Isn't working on cars FUN?

You might be onto something here--I'll take a closer look.


dt

Thrasher
If the disc has been installed back to front have it checked to ensure it is still flat. If dished it will cause problems until the facings wear down.
Tony

Well, you hit the nail right on the head--I pulled the flywheel and all the parts and took them to the machine shop who resurfaced them and it was apparent to them that the relined clutch disk was too thick--back to the brake shop for a new reline. Hope they can find the correct thickness. Good catch!!

dt

The incorrect thickness of the lining is most commonly the problem, that's why the suggestion of the wrong disc lining was made back at the beginning of this thread.

Here's the latest in this continuing saga--digital measurement of the flywheel revealed problems with the amount of material removed from the flywheel flange (too much) when the flywheel was resurfaced--that plus a disk reline that was too thick. The answer--a new reline on the disk and the pressure plate resurfaced until the proper measurements were made. Things are starting to look better now but in the process a hair-line crack was found in the flywheel next to the bolt-hole--the machine shop is going to weld it but they weren't real happy about it because it's not the best solution. If I've learned anything about this process its that there are still mechanics/technicians out there that still know how to work on these old parts.

Thrasher

Not a good idea to weld a flywheel, in my humble opinion. While it won't be rotating a very high RPM's, a rotating mass is still subject to catastrophic failure. I remember reading and hearing about flywheel / clutch explosions back in my drag racing days and of severed limbs and even deaths. I'm not saying this would happen at the low RPM's your engine will be turning, but still.............

Posted back on July 18th:


I agree with Bowtie Bob....I wouldn't weld the flywheel either.