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Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 154
Shade Tree Mechanic
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OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 154 |
I need advice on removing the clutch to replace the lining. With the transmission off, it looks like all the clutch mechinisam can be removed by simply removing the bell housing. Will this work? Or will removing the bell housing from the rear engine mount also remove the rear of the engine from the engine mount? Are there bolts holding the rear of the engine to the rear engine mount seperate from the bolts that hold the bell housing. It looks like the bell housing bolts go through the rear engine mount into the engine block. I know there are a lot of questions here but I am quite puzzled. I have a shop manuel but the instructions are not very clear. please help
thutch
Listen to the "click'n" of those push rods
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Joined: Sep 2008
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ChatMaster - 1,000
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thutch
On my 27 if I remember correctly, when I changed clutch I removed the transmission and rear crossmember to remove bell housing and get to flywheel and pressure plate and disc. Your
1919 may be similar.
Ken 45145
I have a 1927 Chevy Capital AA 4 Door also a 1927 Chevy Touring car, a 1936 Chevy 1/2 ton and a 2010 Corvette LT3 Convertible and a 1953 Packard Caribbean. My tow car is a 2011 Suburban.
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Joined: Feb 2009
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Ken,
Does your 27 have an engine mounting plate between the bell housing and engine? I really don't want the engine to fall out if I remove the bell housing. Thanks for the help.
thutch
Listen to the "click'n" of those push rods
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Joined: Sep 2008
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ChatMaster - 1,000
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Thutch
my crossmember goes between trans and bell housing and also has a crossmember at rear of engine and before bell housing.
If you look on ebay search 1919 chevrolet they have shop manual for sale for 10-20 bucks I think 3-4 of them, get one of those for pics and info.
Also in my past I have pulled trans from 60 era cars and had to put floor jack on oil pan (block of wood between) to hold up motor while I was doing the trans. Have you removed floor to see from top? sometimes the angle of the dangle could be adjusted with the jack making it easier to slide in.
Also your bell housing may be 2 part split down middle. on mine I think I only had to remove the rear section.
Ken
Last edited by Ken_Naber; 05/29/09 07:07 AM.
I have a 1927 Chevy Capital AA 4 Door also a 1927 Chevy Touring car, a 1936 Chevy 1/2 ton and a 2010 Corvette LT3 Convertible and a 1953 Packard Caribbean. My tow car is a 2011 Suburban.
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43
Shade Tree Mechanic
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Posts: 43 |
Thutch
Do you have the 1918-1924 "490" Superior-G-FA-FB-T repair manual? This explains the procedure, although the pictures, good for their time period, leave something to be desired! The manual does state that the clutch bell housing should never be removed unless absolutely necessary as it is ... the way the alignment of the transmission and the motor is obtained. You will need to make a clutch spring compressor and a "U" shaped piece so that you can remove the clutch thrust bearing locks. I used a piece of "uni-strut". I can e-mail you some more information and some pictures if you like.
John
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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John, I do have the manual and have read it over and over. If you have some pictures of the procedure I would appreciate them. My email address is thutch7244@sbcglobal.net Thanks Hutch
Listen to the "click'n" of those push rods
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