Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



Visit the new site at vcca.org

Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Rate Thread
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 132
Shade Tree Mechanic
OP Offline
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 132
I think that I need to use 90 weight oil in transmission and rearend. Is that correct? Not that I think it makes any difference, but it is a 3 speed.

While I am doing this, is there anything else I should do, or consider doing? Any filters or gaskets, etc.?

Thanks in advance

Filling Station - Chevrolet & GMC Reproduction Parts


Filling Station


Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 132
Shade Tree Mechanic
OP Offline
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 132
Let me add to my previous post a bit. I had to change my clutch out so I had my clutch disc and pressure plate rebuilt and got a new throwout bearing. I will be re-installing all of that along with putting the transmission back in.

Any helpful hints will be appreciated.

Williejoebob

Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,701
Likes: 141
ChatMaster - 25,000
Offline
ChatMaster - 25,000
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,701
Likes: 141
The 1934 shop manual specifies #160 in the Summer and #90 in the Winter. You can use #140 all year around as long as most of your driving is done at temperatures above freezing. I use 85W-140 as it will cover both Summer and the cooler Spring and Fall temperatures in this area.
The lurication is not problem with straight #90 in the Summer but it may tend to leak more than the #90 or 85W-140.


Gene Schneider
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 132
Shade Tree Mechanic
OP Offline
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 132
Chev Gene:

Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 132
Shade Tree Mechanic
OP Offline
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 132
Chev Gene: Don't know what happened with earlier reply above, but thanks much. Just got home and got to my manuals and I will probably go with the 85/140. Appreciate it.

Williejoebob

Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 132
Shade Tree Mechanic
OP Offline
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 132
Chev Gene: In reading up a little bit on replacing the clutch disc, etc., the material refers to a cork gasket in the u-joint ball area. Do I have that correct? And if so, can one use cork gasket material such as a cork valve cover gasket, and just try to press it into place with a screwdriver or something similar?

Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,701
Likes: 141
ChatMaster - 25,000
Offline
ChatMaster - 25,000
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,701
Likes: 141
No, the cork is formed into a ring. The U joint ball seal kit is available from the Filling Station.


Gene Schneider
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 132
Shade Tree Mechanic
OP Offline
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 132
Thanks. Appreciate it.

Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 809
ChatMaster - 750
Offline
ChatMaster - 750
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 809
I use 'O' rings in my uni bell, a large one under the clamp and two side by side in the end where it slips over the torque tube, I had to remove the steel flange that held the old cork one. This was done 20 years ago and has worked well
Chris

Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 132
Shade Tree Mechanic
OP Offline
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 132
Chris: Thanks a lot. I have ordered the u joint ball seal kit from the Filling Station and it should be in Monday. I toyed with the idea of o-rings but decided to go back with the kit.

williejoebob


Link Copied to Clipboard
 

Notice: Any comments posted herein do not necessarily reflect the official position of the VCCA.

Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 7.7.5