Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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#142878 05/08/09 01:05 PM
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 53
Ger13 Offline OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
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Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 53
Does anyone know where I could locate a 5 or 6 blade fan that would fit on my stock 216 engine? I'm trying to get a little more air flow to help with the cooling.

Thanks,


Gerry
VCCA #37909
www.1940chevrolet.info
Ger13 #142879 05/08/09 01:50 PM
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,701
Likes: 141
ChatMaster - 25,000
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ChatMaster - 25,000
Joined: Jan 2002
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If the temp. is running high at road speeds the fan will not help.
A 1940 is a hot running model. 190 Deg in 90 Deg. weather woulld be normal. Could even run higher if going "with the wind".
The 1940 Master 85 had a wider bladed fan. You could also try a really wide blade fan from any of the larger trucks from 1939 and up. Just a warning, they make a lot of noise and will improve cooling only at low speeds and idle.
A 1941 radiator core is a direct fit and will help a little. Main thing is to have a clean, rust free cooling system.


Gene Schneider
Chev Nut #142916 05/08/09 07:10 PM
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 53
Ger13 Offline OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
OP Offline
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 53
Thanks that is just what I needed. I only have a cooling problem at slow speeds and idle. If the speed is 25 MPH, it run right at 185 deg. just fine.

My car sat in a backyard for 25 years before I found it. I installed a new radiator and have flushed the block at least five time trying to get it to run cooler a show speeds. I guess I really need to remove the block and have it dipped. Oh, I really don't want to do that.

Thanks,

Gerry


Gerry
VCCA #37909
www.1940chevrolet.info
Ger13 #143134 05/11/09 11:08 PM
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 234
Likes: 5
Backyard Mechanic
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Backyard Mechanic
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 234
Likes: 5
My 40 was overheating too. Unconnected to that prob, I had
the engine block worked on in a machine shop. Vatted in the
process. It took me several hours to get all the goop out of
the water jackets around the bottoms of the cylinders. I used
a wire probe and the strongest dishwasher detergent I could find. You could do that with the head off if you can keep that
stuff out of the cylinders. Force the detergent solution down
the passages from the top, work the wire, flush with high pressure water hose through the drains on the bottom of the
block-over and over. The grease that they lubed the water
pump with is down there in a new chemical commposition-rust
putty. Good Luck! Roger


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