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Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 19,758 Likes: 64
ChatMaster - 15,000
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ChatMaster - 15,000
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 19,758 Likes: 64 |
What I don't understand is why you people don't use 30# roofing felt. It is the closest that I know of to the original material and dirt cheap. Check with a roofer in your area they should have a small piece that is scrap.
How Sweet the roar of a Chevy four!
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Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,542
ChatMaster - 3,000
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ChatMaster - 3,000
Joined: Apr 2002
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Chipper is right the material can be gotten free; stop by any job site where they are laying felt and if you ask they will let you have all of the cut offs they toss off of the roof.
P.S. There are different grades of felt, some roofers don't use 30#.
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Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 29,863
Tech Advisor ChatMaster - 25,000
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Tech Advisor ChatMaster - 25,000
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 29,863 |
The Mangy Old Mutt
"If It's Not Junk.....It's Not Treasure!"
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 1,281
ChatMaster - 1,000
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ChatMaster - 1,000
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It sounds like, That If you can!t see It, Any thing can be used If It Is hidden, Now I wonder If I can find original 1932 air for my tires, Or do I just use todays air and not worry about losing points when the car Is judged. 
DON BOLTZ FROM THE EVERGREEN STATE
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Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 29,863
Tech Advisor ChatMaster - 25,000
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Tech Advisor ChatMaster - 25,000
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 29,863 |
The Mangy Old Mutt
"If It's Not Junk.....It's Not Treasure!"
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 1,281
ChatMaster - 1,000
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ChatMaster - 1,000
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Hey Skipper. I have alot of hot air In my tires all the time. 
DON BOLTZ FROM THE EVERGREEN STATE
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Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 19,758 Likes: 64
ChatMaster - 15,000
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ChatMaster - 15,000
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Posts: 19,758 Likes: 64 |
The material that I have found on several '31 Chevys is more like roofing felt than leatherette. It was more like a woven fabric impregnated with tar to make it waterproof. I believe that scrap material from upholstery, tops and fabrics from non-automotive applications was also used. I am sure there were specifications and many suppliers so the fabric used in any car and from year to year varied. I have never found rubber isolators in the body or under bolt on parts. Engine and transmission mounts however used rubber beginning in '32.
FYI, the original leatherette was more like oil cloth than modern vinyl. Vinyl was not developed until the 40s and not used in any large volume until the 50s.
How Sweet the roar of a Chevy four!
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Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 29,863
Tech Advisor ChatMaster - 25,000
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Tech Advisor ChatMaster - 25,000
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 29,863 |
The Mangy Old Mutt
"If It's Not Junk.....It's Not Treasure!"
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Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,542
ChatMaster - 3,000
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ChatMaster - 3,000
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Just FYI if anyone is interested in oilcloth this site has woodgrain oilcloth (scroll down to the bottom of the page that boots up for woodgrain) at a low cost, in their words: "The oilcloth is 47" wide. It costs $6.99 per yard (except for medallion which is 54" wide and $7.69 per yard) . Fabric is sold by the running yard. If you purchase one yard of oilcloth you will be sent a piece that is 36" by 47". Fabric is sold in 1/4 yard increments, with a 1/2 yard minimum per fabric." Also you can request samples: "For swatch requests, please use our Request Form." http://www.mendels.com/fabrics_oilcloth.html There are other sites for oilcloth here: http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=oilcloth&spell=1 Don't know if this product could be used or not I will let the experts check it out and give their opinions.
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 115
Shade Tree Mechanic
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OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 115 |
Originally posted by Chevtruck1926: Gentlemen, Moderator That doesn’t mean the Moderator isn’t a gentleman, but I need his permission too :) Would you mind if I use the info and pictures in this tread for an info sheet for the Stovebolt. This is the first time I have seen a complete body in wood. I think that Bill did an exceptional good job and I would like to recommend him in the Stovebolt. If it is published in the Stovebolt is not up to me, but I would like to keep the info for my self too. Restoring a 1926 truck, I might need some wooden parts to finish. :)
Thank you for your time
Richard Chevtruck1926, Bill sent me an email last night, and he and I have no problem with using the info in this thread for the Stovebolt...all you need now is for the moderator to give you the OK.
All the best, Don
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Joined: Oct 2005
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 124 |
Perfect, thanks for all the trouble Don. And keep us posted how '31 is doing please.
Richard
How sweet is the roar of a Chevy four (Thanks Chipper)
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 115
Shade Tree Mechanic
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OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 115 |
Will do buddy! If the painter keeps to his schedule, I should have her back, painted and ready for re-assembly, before Christmas.
If all goes well I might even have her back on the road by spring :) .
All the best, Don
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 535
Oil Can Mechanic
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Oil Can Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 535 |
A prospective region member has a 26 4dr sedan. He brought in to the meeting a door jamb (#6 in the illustration of the 7-passenger sedan above) covered with metal except for a thin area on one side. He wants to know how to get the wood "out". I assume that you spread the sheet metal. Any way to do it without bending the metal?
Thanks,
Jim
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 115
Shade Tree Mechanic
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Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 115 |
The '26 is considerably older than my '31, so I can not give you a solid answer without actually looking at the parts in question, but here is what I learned when I worked on the '31.
When the bodies were originally built, the entire wooden sub-structure of the body was completed first, and then the metal body panels were installed over it.
The hinge and lock pillars are glued and screwed to the lower side sills, from the outside, with two large wood screws, so the screw heads are not accessible once the metal body panel is installed.
The metal body panels are actually flanged and nailed onto the wooden sub-structure, so in order to remove the lock pillar you have to gain access to the screws by either removing the lock pillar covers and un-nailing the body panels from the lock pillar, or you would actually have to cut through the body panel.
Probably the best thing to do here is to get us a photo of the parts in question, so we can see what we are up against, and then we can contact Bill Cartwright at K.C. Wood to see what's the best way to tackle this.
Please contact me via email and let's discuss further.
All the best, Don
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Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 3
Grease Monkey
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Grease Monkey
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 3 |
Hey Don, I just met you at Bill Fisk's Machine Shop in Charleston. Thanks for introducing me to VCCA. Being the new guy on the block it will take me awhile to figure out how to post pictures. As soon as I do I'll post some pictures of my 58 GMC panel & 56 GMC truck. Don you really should post some pictures of 31's 6 cylinder , I was blown away when I saw it at Bill's shop. Later! Deuter412
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 115
Shade Tree Mechanic
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OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 115 |
Hi Dueter, It was great to meet you today at Bill's, and welcome to the VCCA forums. As for the posting the pics, they are already here in: Wood Repair Support Group
All the best, Don
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