VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1937-1945 1937 chev pickup

Hi...
Can anyone advise me on the pass. side door handle for 37 pickup. I have the exploded view detail and have taken it too 3 local locksmiths and no one can make it work or understand it????
Mike

Move to a better locale? Sorry, I couldn't resist. What's the problem? Do you not have the key? Does the door not latch? What does it not do that you want it to do?

Brian

Yes I have a brand new lock cylinder and key, The mechinism isolates the turning of the tail shaft internally, but it won't do what it is supposed too on mine. I had 2 locks one was broke in half, but the internals were all thier. We have taken all the best parts to make one, just hoping for some tricks or advise?
Mike

One more thing. I am reffering to the actual chrome door handle, not the latch assembly in the door!
Mike

I recently experienced what sounds like it could be a similar problem. I fixed it after I discovered the cylinder (part 16.365 in the exploded view) will apparently only work correctly if it is installed (turned) on the Shaft (part 16.385) one way. There are two ways it will seem to fit, each 180 degrees opposed. Only one of these fits will apparently allow the lock to work correctly. It sure seemed to me that it should not make a difference otherwise, but it apparently did in this case. Also, aligning the pawl (part 16.380) the spring (part 16.375) and clip (part 16.377) on the cylinder and shaft takes a lot of patience and (holding ones tongue just right), not to mention an encouraging exclamatory word or two. It took me most of an afternoon to figure it out and get it right---sometimes I'm a very slow experiential learner.
Good Luck!

One trick I learned when putting the the internal parts together is to use a piece of very fine wire or thread to tie the internal parts together in their properly assembled configuration, then slowly slide it into the handle. The wire or thread will usually clear the inside of the handle and you are in business. Choosing to try to assemble it and get the parts in the handle almost requires three hands. By tying the assembly together, it takes only two hands.

Sure wish I had thought about that wire trick at the time. Yes, sliding all the parts into the handle is tricky and that was part of my learning experience.

I'm still having a bit of a problem understanding exactly what the problem is. Is the lock cylinder in place but then you turn the key, the cylinder turns but it doesn't lock or unlock the locking mechanism? If that's the issue the door lock on my 38 did the same thing. I discovered that I needed to push in slightly while turning the key and it works normally. I don't know if it was designed that way but that is how it works on my 38.

They are not locksmiths.....they are only "key cutters". A genuine registered experienced locksmith can handle the job...but unfortunately, finding one can be difficult.

We have a few locksmiths in our area but none with much automotive experience. Even though some have over 30 years on the job by far most of their work is on dwellings or buildings. Today mostly they rekeying locks and install security systems. Their automotive experience is nearly exclusively getting people into their vehicles after the keys have been locked inside or lost. Some few can "pick" an automotive lock (I have taught a couple how to do it) but all (including may policemen) can operate a "slim jim" or coat hanger. [As an asside many teens and pre-teen boys can get into a car faster than the "professionals"]. Most modern locks are pin type and old Chevy locks are wafer type which take different techniques and tools to work on particularly if you don't understand the difference.

Once they are trained or educated (by me) on how the locks actually work they are a real asset. They also have some equipment that I can' afford to buy.

Thanks everyone for the response> it is helpful. The pushing in might be the trick, it just does not make sense that the block or paul fits into a grove in the actual chomed handle part, so the actual lock cylinder part can't turn anything, but I wonder if the pushing in of the key, or maybe to lock you have to turn the handle down and then turn key. Does anyone have a 37 pick up that the locking handle works on! So as to know if there is a trick or sequence?
1940 century

Yes, mine is a '37 half ton and no, I don't have to jiggle the key or do anything otherwise to get it to lock securely. I do not know if this is the correct lock response or if it is as Tiny decribed. I do know it now works fine.

A local locksmith worked on the lock a few years ago and replaced some worn wafers. It worked fine until I removed it later to have the handle replated. Reinstalling the lock assembly into the handle after plating was when I had my learning experience.

With the description given in your last post it seems to be the same problem I previously described as a remedy.

I've had mine apart several times for replating, and adjusting. Never any problems and no jiggling to get it to work. It works fine.

Thanks again everyone for you input!
I think that maybe I must have a defective part or something? It just does not engage or disingage the mechanism!
I will look for another lock on Ebay or?
Mike

I dont remember having any problems reasssembling mine but its been over 8 years ago and could not remember how I done it,I did pick up a extra handle in a box of parts off ebay that I was wanting to use on the drivers side but its missing too many parts so I will continue to slide out the pass side for now.