VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1929-1932 Oil Pan

OK are there any hint at putting the gasket for the oil pan back and getting the pan back up. The engine is still in the car and I'm on my back. 1 Do I use a gasket adhesive ? 2 I see the cork gasket has to go on the engine dose the flat gasket also go on the engine or on the pan? 3 If I need a adhesive what type? I only have NAPA,Auto Zone and Advance Auto.

I prefer to not use sealers, cements, etc. because it makes the job much more difficlut the next time.
The side gaskets must be installed on the block first. Note the tabs on the ends of the gaskets. They must fit int the main bearing cap groves. The end corks go in place last. They will but up against the side gasket tabs.
I use grease to old the side gaskets to the block. Also use 4 studs made from sawed off 1/4" bolts (about1 1/2" long)....threading in two studs on each side (into the gasket screw holes). The studs keep the gaskets from sliding and position the pan correctly as its lifted in place.

OK I'm glad I asked I'll look into making some studs to help are there any other opinions or tricks I need to make this as easy as I can I can't lay under car to long so I work in short periods And THANKS for information

On page 60 of the Chevrolet Service News for October of 1929 there is a picture of how to make the oil pan guide pins with a steel wire on them so when you push the pan over the guide pins the steel wire will spring back and keep the pan in place without holding it. I made some but can't find where I put them to take a picture.

I read through the service letter a while ago I'll check them tomorrow. Thanks

An easy way to keep the gaskets up on the block is to use some of your wife's thread. Tie through the holes about three on each side. [I have found it it easier to feed from the top down versus bottom up.] Then fit the ends into the groove in the main caps. They should stay in place. I add a little sealer in the corners where the gasket pieces meet. Then push up the oil pan and start the screws. If in a hole with thread it is not a problem but I try to use others first. Clip and remove the thread and finish screwing the pan into place. Even if you forget to remove the thread it is so small that it does not cause any leaks.

I did notice thread on the oil pan holes after I got it down but after what has been posted here it should have been on the block. I'll see how I make out tomorrow if I get a chance to work on it.I also noticed that one screw on left side of the engine was left out but after I got the pan down I could see what looked like a broken screw because the hole was plugged further investigation someone put a screw in from the top to hold a bracket for the oil line going to the gage I will use a longer screw going in from the bottom and hold the bracket down with a nut. I hope this is clear. Thanks for the help

You are right that there is a longer screw there on the drivers side that holds that oil line bracket away from the exhaust pipe and it is screwed in from the bottom like the rest.

Yes, to lift the pan upwards and screw it in same time is a hard job. I did "glue" the gasket with grease on the engine block and made some long sticks from wood to guide the pan to get it easy on the right position to get the first and some other screws in. After that it was easier.
But in general it is an awful dirty hard work...but has to be done...

Stefan

Oil pan is back on the car just waiting for FS parts to arrive to put valve cover back on. Then into changing oil in transmission,U joint,and rear.