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Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 88
Shade Tree Mechanic
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OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 88 |
Can anyone tell me if there’s a particular item within the original 6V electrical system of a 48 Fleetmaster that might be susceptible to damage with a 12v Jump? I found myself in a situation late in the fall cruising season that forced me to jump my 48 with a modern car. It spun over nice and fast, did ultimately start and I was able to get the car home. But now there’s a significant electrical problem somewhere. The car won’t start under it’s own battery power. When jumped again, it will start, but stalls when the jumper cables are removed. I can dig through the system in the spring … just wondering if anyone has any ideas as to where I might begin my hunt. It's as if there's a significant short somewhere. When powered with it's own battery I have no lights, or anything. With jumpers attached everything brightens up as at should and the car seems to operate OK. The battery tests to 6V. Thanks as always. Bowtie
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Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 19,758 Likes: 64
ChatMaster - 15,000
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ChatMaster - 15,000
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 19,758 Likes: 64 |
First check all battery connections. If system powers up with jump battery then everything from jump connection forward is ok. Must be either battery or connections are bad.
How Sweet the roar of a Chevy four!
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Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 29,863
Tech Advisor ChatMaster - 25,000
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Tech Advisor ChatMaster - 25,000
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 29,863 |
Try another good 6 volt battery. If the system doesn't power up then the problem is either bad connections like Chippy Dippy suggests or the problem is downstream from the battery. I'm betting that the existing battery is bad.  :) :grin:
The Mangy Old Mutt
"If It's Not Junk.....It's Not Treasure!"
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 11,162
ChatMaster - 10,000
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ChatMaster - 10,000
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 11,162 |
Right on try a new battery with enough cranking amps for your car. many of the cheaper six volt tractor batteries you find may not have enough cranking power. Get a GOOD one! Then hook it up with new cables as heavy as you can find (again, Tractor place) the manual probably calls for 1 gauge, I like nothing smaller than 0 and like 00 better and go from there. My 53 had a set of 4 gauge cables (4 gauge is barely good for 12 volt cars, in my humble opinion).
Life's a long winding trail, love Jesus and ride a good horse!
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Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 88
Shade Tree Mechanic
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OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 88 |
The battery that's in the car is a good DELCO 6V battery that has served me pretty well for a few years. It did check 6V, but obviously that says nothing of the amps behind it. It's getting pretty cold out there in the garage (I am in Michigan) but maybe I can get out there and give it one more try. I did disconnect the battery before giving up the other day so if there is a short, at least I won't give up the charge I have. The cables are the good heavy thick ones. Don't remember the gauge now, but they were from a "old time" auto electrical shop and specifically were recommended for a 6V system. Very thick as compared to anything on a modern car. There's not been a problem over the last few years. This MIGHT be what it feels like to have a cell go out in the battery I don't know.
What makes me think there's a bigger (different) problem is 1) I did jump the car with 12 volts. I never did that before. and 2) it did turn over and briefly start. It stalled and then went DARK. This suggests to me that there's a significant short somewhere. Is any single component fragile against a brief 12 volt exposure?
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 10,379 Likes: 1
Technical Advisor ChatMaster - 10,000
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Technical Advisor ChatMaster - 10,000
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 10,379 Likes: 1 |
Here is my side of the story and I'm sticking to it. 1) Battery is shot, must be replaced. 2) The generator also has a problem. If you can start with a 12-volt---that says battery is low/dead, when you remove the 12-volt the engine should run on the generator, if not the generator/wiring has a problem. To CMA, the battery is dragging all the juice.  
RAY Chevradioman http://www.vccacolumbiariverregion.org/1925 Superior K Roadster 1928 Convertible, Sport, Cabriolet 1933 Eagle, Coupe 1941 Master Deluxe 5-Passenger Coupe 1950 Styleline Deluxe 4-Door Sedan 1950 Styleline Deluxe Convertible 2002 Pontiac, Montana, Passenger Van 2014 Impala, 4-Door Sedan, White Diamond, LTZ 2017 Silverado, Double Cab, Z71, 4X4, White, Standard Bed, LTZ If you need a shoulder to cry on, pull off to the side of the road. Death is the number 1 killer in the world.
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,701 Likes: 141
ChatMaster - 25,000
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ChatMaster - 25,000
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,701 Likes: 141 |
I agree with the above :)
Gene Schneider
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Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 570
Oil Can Mechanic
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Oil Can Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 570 |
If anything, jumping it with a 12 volt did you a favor by exposing your weakest links. The wiring on a 6 volt are quite a bit heavier cause it takes almost twice the amps of a 12 volt. I would assume you weren't running headlights/radio/heat/defroster when you jumped it. I have jumped mine about a bizillion times with a 12 and will continue to do so. You may notice the battery start to boil like hell, that means your taking too long, if that happens let the battery calm down a bit before reattempting. You don't wanna blow that sucker up.
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Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 298
Backyard Mechanic
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Backyard Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 298 |
I always hook the cable up after I have started cranking,(sometimes takes a helper).That pulls some of the 12 volts/amps directly to the starter and you have less chance of burning up coils, condensers and points.Also hard on starter solenoids and guages in the dash to run them on 12 volts, even briefly.
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