Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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#1279 06/04/02 03:42 PM
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moedip Offline OP
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Hi Guys - am going to start working on the 1930 Chev 2 door 3 window coupe next week.
The rubber matting on the running boards is a little tatered and weathered and needs
replacing. I went to the Filling station and swallowed hard when I found the price for the
matting there is $115 for the pair. I went to partsformodelaford.com and found they are
selling rubber matting for running boards at $18 each. What is so special about the Chev
matting compared to the Ford matting? Can the Ford matting be used? or is there a
cheaper place than the Filling Station for the rubber? I would appreciate some help. :confused:

Filling Station - Chevrolet & GMC Reproduction Parts


Filling Station


#1280 06/04/02 04:16 PM
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Hi Moedip!

The running board mats that the Filling Station sells are the correct mats for the 1929-30 running boards with the right design, configuration and etc. It is high quality stuff. The Model A mats are totally different. However, if you are not restoring the car and you really don't care about the car being totally original, then you might want to check out the $18 mats. Also, you can go to the local hardware store and buy ribbed rubber matting material by the foot fairly cheap, and that might be the way to go if you really don't care about having the original running board mats. A lot of dudes use this generic ribbed matting on their running boards. laugh laugh laugh laugh laugh


The Mangy Old Mutt

"If It's Not Junk.....It's Not Treasure!"
#1281 06/04/02 05:25 PM
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moedip Offline OP
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Hi Junkyard Dog - I want to keep it original - just wanted to know if there was a lower quality rubber matting - like in the $60 range that was available elsewere. Don't get me wrong - Filling Station's stuff is high quality - but for a car that is not going to be used that much - a lower quality rubber will last a long time. Do you know of any other sources for original rubber at a lower price that I could check out or is there anyone out there with a set they want to sell? Just remember here in Canada $115US is $190 CDN a fair chunk for rubber :rolleyes: ?

#1282 06/04/02 07:04 PM
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Hey Moedip! As far as I know, there is only one person manufacturing the 1929-30 rubber floor mats and all of the dealers, including the Filling Station, are selling the same mats. :( :( :(


The Mangy Old Mutt

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#1283 06/04/02 07:28 PM
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Hi Moedip.
When you put new rubber on your boards be sure to check on the proper way to prepare the rubber and get the right type of cement . I ruined a set of matting by not knowing the right way to prep the rubber.Gets expensive ,so do it right the first time. auto :confused:


woody
#1284 06/05/02 09:20 AM
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moedip Offline OP
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Hi woody - I was just going to wipe the bottom of the rubber with laquer thinner and use pro strength contact cement. What did you do?

#1285 06/05/02 10:01 AM
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JYD- Sometime this summer I hope to paint my '32 coupe. The paint code is 90 which I believe is crown maroon. Is their a source like a picture or a paint chip I can take to the paint shop to have it made up ?


FDNY
#1286 06/05/02 10:13 AM
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moedip Offline OP
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Just talked to a company in Alberta called Precision Rubber. The fellow was very helpful. He gave me the name of a Guy who sells the same matting as Filling station but is a little cheaper - $120 including shipping to Canada. The advice he gave me I would like to pass on. The proper preparation of the matting is as follows:
1) The release agent has to be removed from the bottom of the new matting. He said they only use acetone.
2) After a good cleaning with acetone - buff the underside of the matting to get it roughened up.
3) The glue sold by Filling Station is not good. He recommends a 2 part epoxy glue like Fusion or SE2000 which can be bought from companies that make rubber rollers and conveyer belts.
4) After removing the old matting - sand the running board to make sure it is perfectly flat as any imperfections will show through the new matting.
5) Put a coating of epoxy glue on the underside of the matting and on top of the running board and let dry. Then apply a second coating to both.
6) When dry put a piece of plastic on top of your running boards and put the new matting on top of the plastic. Then align the matting and slowly remove the plastic pressing the new matting down as you go.

He was saying that contact cement or any other adhesives don't work well because as soon as the sun hits the matting the temperatures soar and other adhesives will bubble or let go.
OK - I have learned my lesson - DON'T BE CHEAP WHERE IT COUNTS! - I have a nice car here and the little extra it would cost to do it right is much cheaper in the long run. Who said you can't teach an old dog new tricks??? dance dance

#1287 06/05/02 10:21 AM
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Rwolf: Yes, paint combination number 90 is crown maroon, and if you want to see a paint chip of this color, go to the following web site: http://autocolorlibrary.com/ laugh laugh

Moedip: He left off one very important step, and that is to lay the rubber mats out in the sun to get them warm so that they will be pliable, because the mats usually have to be stretched in order for them to conform to the configuration of the running board. :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek:


The Mangy Old Mutt

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#1288 06/05/02 11:05 AM
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Hi again, Steve from The Filling Station here. Just a point of clarification.....we don't sell adhesive for running board mats. While I have personally used contact cement (as used for Formica), the results have been less than wonderful. The gentleman in Canada has had good success with the adhesive mentioned. I can see no reason not to try it.

#1289 06/05/02 11:14 AM
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Modip , when you sand use about a 50 grit and really scuff it good a sanding block will help . that was my biggest mistake .Good lusk chevy


woody
#1290 06/05/02 12:21 PM
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TO GET THE SURFACE ON THE RUNNING BOARD REALLY FLAT AND SMOOTH, CAN YOU USE ANY OF THE PRODUCTS THAT ARE PUT ON A CAR'S SURFACE BEFORE PAINTING?

I'M NOT TALKING ABOUT A THICH LAYER, BUT SOMETHING TO FILL MINOR FLAWS IN THE SURFACE. WHEN THE RUBBER GETS A LITTLE OLDER AND STARTS TO FORM FIT, ANY LITTLE DIPS AND ETC. IN THE METAL WILL SHOW UP.

I WOULD LIKE TO ALMOST TREAT IT AS A METAL SURFACE THAT IS GOING TO GET PAINT, IF I COULD WITHOUT PROBLEMS "ARISING" (NO PUN INTENTED) LATER BECAUSE THE RUBBER IS TOO AIR TIGHT.

ANY THOUGHTS????


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