VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1912-1928 1928 chevy National ab

No problem insurance man!

Thanks AntiqueMechanic!

Ok I am having some trouble and need help.... I can't locate the four bolts that hold the transmission to the bell housing. From what I can see, there aren't any. If you look down where the shifter was I can see the ends of a bolt but it is threaded from the bell housing side.

I tried to pull the transmission along with the bell housing but that isn't working out. It moves alittle but I believe that it is stuck on the shaft. I can take some pictures and add them tomorrow if that will help me explain it better.

Insert into the instructions just prior to the sentence that is in bold; Remove the bolts that hold the bell housing, the 4 bolts on the cross member, and remove the transmission, bell housing and the frame cross member as a unit.

Ok, thanks. I went ahead and tried that but is is still stuck. The bell housing is full of mouse nest and it is stuck pretty good. I just wanted to make sure that I wasn't missing something else.

I worked on getting the transmission and bell housing off today... Still no luck. I have pushed pryed and pulled to no luck. ANY IDEAS?

On a good note, I (my grandpa and I) got the ring gear changed and back together and ready to be put under the car... once I win the fight with the transmission that is...

I still haven't touched up the valve seat yet though.

Another question. What is the make up of the rear axles on the outside. Is there rear end oil throughout the whole rear end? Is the felt seal the only thing keeping it out of the hub?

YES, The felt seal is the only stopper. If the axle bearing has been changed it may be a sealed one side or sealed both sides bearing.

If you have removed all the bolts around the edge of the bell housing, it should be removable at that time. It sounds like the clutch may be rusted to the transmission input shaft. I would attempt to drive some wedges around the bell housing if you can get that much of an opening. Although the bell housing is a strong and well built unit, do not forcefully drive the wedges in.

If you can't get the bell housing open enough for the wedges, it may be the guide pins on the bell housing that is causing the problem.

Thanks! I can get the whole thing to move around some, it wants to come off but hasn't made the leap yet! I dumped a half a can of wd-40 on top of the flywheel I hope some of that made it down to the shaft.

I'll keep you posted.

Good, stay with it. If it don't budge, get a bigger hammer.

Couple other questions I have come up with while driving around. Is there anything to put on the wood to help preserve it? I am going to wire wheel the frame and the under side and was wondering what color to paint it? I figured black but should it be glossy or flat?

Thanks for all the help.

Originally a Chromate was used as a surface treatment on the wood after assembly. It is the green tint you see on original wood. There are some modern wood preservatives, the best are not available to individuals. Light coats of wood sealer and paint will do a good job and are not hazardous to the applicator.

Black of a semi-gloss (or flattened high gloss) is most accurate. The modern paints have a higher gloss than those of 50 years ago.

Thanks Chipper. So is all the wood painted then or just the under side?

On another note, I worked on the transmission some today. I got it off of the pegs and can turn it around now. There is quite a bit of play in it but just wont come yet. slowly but surely! I did dig a lot of mouse nest out of the bell house though. I didn't have any more penetrating oil to spray in around the flywheel, I'll have to get some.

Till next time....

Here's how we treated the wooden parts of the Ford body.
First treat the wood with some colourless wood preservative to kill the bacteria.
Let it dry well.
Mix wood tar with turpentine and treat the surfaces with the mixture (turpentine is used to dillute the tar to be brushed easier).
heat the wood with hot air blower (hairblower) so that the tar soaks into the wood matrix and wipe the surplus off with the rag.
Let it dry well
repeat the tar treatment.
Let it dry extremely well.
paint.

After this treatment the wood preserves even in the Finnish climate. Make sure the tar and turpentine are wood based and not any industrial mineral liquids.

Job No 8150 = Five passenger sedan, O 5824 = what? What is the O/

O is Oakland Body plant.

Go here for the same answer:

https://vccachat.org/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/126889#Post126889

:) :grin:

Dave,
For the record, Your headlamps are both from a 1928/29 F**d Model A. The lenses may be different, possibly a 28 fluted one on the passenger side and the later style on the drivers side.
I never have very good luck with WD40 as a penetrant, WD stands for "water displacer". Use PB Blaster or order up some Kroil direct from the manufacturer.
Place my name on the do not restore list, It is Way Cool just like it is. Good Luck.

Mike

Thanks Mike, Funny you talking about the head lights. Dad said that he thought that it had chevy headlights on it when he bought it, but couldn't remember. Well today I was digging through some of our A parts and found the Chevy head lights! One is complete and looks pretty good and the other one is missing the lens and ring. Oh, I also found the tail light assembly, no lens or bezel though.

WD-40, I have used alot of PB so far!

Things are going pretty good so far. Today I got a pretty big order in from the filling station and started putting her back together.

Tomorrow I am going to take the main shaft from the transmission to a shop to see if they can fix it.

In my "down time" I got Grandpas A running and been cruising around in it. I have a new top to on it but he hasn't dragged me away from my chevy long enought for me to put it on yet!

Mike your name will go on the ever growing "do not restore" list. There is no one on the "do restore" list!

Thanks again Mike


David

Wonder why so many of us Old Chevy Nuts are on the Do Not Restore List? We have all made the mistake of taking a good original or older restoration and trying to improve it. Takes a bunch of those green frog skins and then you don't want to drive it 'cause it might get dirty or scratched. They are meant to be driven and enjoyed not worshiped. Just the opinion of a person that has messed with these old Chevys for nearly 40 years and still learning.

I like that way of thinking Chipper! I would like to work on the seats some but just thinking of a price scares me! :eek:

Things are started to get put back together, slowly. I still have a few parts in cleaner and are going to need a quick shot of paint.

I am ready to hear it roar! Still need some tires before a drive though!

Really nice car, David. Nice now and a lot to work with.
Did anyone ever answer your question about how to join the VCCA? At the main https://vccachat.org/ page, before you click on Chevy Chatter II, there is a box with membership info. Last month our 45000th member signed up.

Thanks Sam! Getting closer to my driver everyday! Waiting on the shop to call so I can get my input shaft. Today I installed the rear end and axles back together. :) I need to become a member, that is on my list of things to do!

Are the ignition keys all the same? I don't have a key to my car. Does anyone had an old stock ignition for sale?

When you visit a good lock smith, he should normally be able to make a new and fitting key. Bring the ignition lock and two blanks and I am sure he will fix it.