VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1937-1945 brakes

went for a drive in my "1940 special deluxe" and noticed that the brake pedal started to get hard when pressed. then i noticed that the brakes would not release all the way. by the time i got home the car was being hard to roll cause of the hard brake pedal. is this a master cylinder problem because the fluid is not being let back into the cylinder? can a master cylinder be rebuilt easily to fix this problem or should a new cylinder be installed? or do i have a wheel cylinder problem. the wheel hose lines do not seemed to be collapsed. what would be my answer guys. thanks

It could be a master cylinder problem. The M/cyl push rod may not be fully releasing. Its adjsted by turning the etcentric bolt oa the front of the push rod.
It could be that the wheel cylinders have some pistons that are sticking due to rust. A common problem and you will find that the wheel cyls need rebuilding every few years,

Your master cyl will have to come off and rebuilt. I believe the compensating port (very small pin hole) in the bottom of the reservoir is plugged not allowing fluid to return to the reservoir once your apply the brake. Also it is in the valving of the MS. So with a rebuild and new replacement parts you will be in good shape. However it sounds like the entire brake system should be overhauled. I know been there done that, had to open the rear brake line let off fluid and would be OK for a couple of applications of the pedal.

Hi kwchevy1940,

I would strongly urge you to remove the master cylinder and all wheel cylinders. Send them out to be lined with SS or brass. In the meantime start checking at your local parts house for the kits necessary to reassemble. Before mounting up any of the wheel cylinders or the master cylinder, clean all the brake lines with air and inspect all lines for external rust which is a clue as to what is inside.

Test drive for a few miles and then readjust all brakes.

If the brake shoes are either wet with brake fluid or oil they must be relined. If in very good shape and serviceable you could reuse them.

I hope you can sense from my comments that I am very concerned about brakes. They are what is between you and that kid that just ran out in the road.

Not to mention, that steering column becoming a giant spear on impact with the crosshairs aimed squarely at your heart.

Who do you recommend sending the cylinders to? Most that once did it not longer perform the service. White Post wants a second mortgage on your home for the master cylinder and wheel cylinders are too high also.

Once you get your system repaired if you flush the system every two or three years you will avoid this problem.

thanks guys, i really apreciate you help and suggestions. once i get all the bugs out. a maintenance schedule would not be a bad thing to put together during the winter months.since i got the 41' special deluxe, i have learned a lot from you guys. keep up the good work. thanks, kw

An earlier post was looking for a company to resleeve brake cylinders. I have used the following company who I found to be fast and cost effective:

Brake & Equipment Wharehouse
455 harrison St NE
Minneapolis, MN 55413
800-233-4053
http://www.brakeplace.com

If you subscribe to Auto Restorer, see the September 2003 issue for a step-by-step article on how brakes are resleeved by this company.

hey guys, what would be the easiest and safest way to remove the brake drums that evidently have not been off since 1940? i have tried tapping with a mallet, i used a propane torch, i have used penetrating oil. but nothing seems to loosen the drums. this is the first time a drum has wupped me. i don't want to damage the drums by beating them too hard. gotta be a better way. any suggestions? thanks, kw

As I recall, there are (2) screws that hold the drums onto the axle flange - did you remove them ?

If your working on the front I think you need to remove cotter key and nut on spindle and pull outer bearing out, then drum should slide off. Besides the screws for the rear drums make sure that the drums turn free and that the shoes are not stuck to the drum holding them on.

KW
They are most likely stuck at the center where the drum pilots onto the axle shaft. That would be the place for penetrating oil. My favorite whacking place is the outer edge of the face of the drum. Hit toward the car, you are trying to pop the opposite side of the drum loose. Good Luck.

Mike

are you saying that both front and back drums have the two screws that holds them on? i did not see any screw slots on the front drum, i have not been to the back drums yet. kw

The front drums are riveted to the hubs. The wheel bearing/spindle nut must be removed (in the front).....and I am sure all the drums have been of many times since 1940.
The rear drums will just slide off unless the speed nuts are still on the wheel studs. The rear drums usually are "stuck" in the center where they pilot on the axle. Start soaking that area now. Later will probably be necessary to rap the outer rim of the drum with a hammer to jar it loose.

i went back and looked at the front drums an noticed what looked like screws. after what gene mentioned, they are rivets. so as always, you helped me, from making a big hammer mistake. so i will do as gene said. thanks, kw

Chevrolet stopped riveting the hub to the drum in 1960. If I replace drums on cars 1959 and older in never bother to bolt or rivet them together. The wheel studs do the job nicely

gene, would it all right to grind the rivets out instead of removing the bearings and such. it sure would be better to remove the drum each time service was needed or replacement is needed since the studs are in good shape. kw

KW
Once you have the drums moving on the hub you may have to back the adjustment off to allow the drum to move over the linings, especially if the drums have had several sets of linings since the last machining of the drums.
Tony