VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1912-1928 pulling a 28 engine

Hi, I am having a hard time getting the engine out of the frame on
a orginal 28 fordor. I've got radiator/everything else off and removed every bolt I could find. THis car has alot of dried muck
everywhere so I may have missed something. I've also removed floor
boards, pedals,and all the bolts on the bell housing. Any suggestion greatly appreciated. Dex.

Are you trying to remove the engine with the transmission or without the transmission?

:) :grin:

I am trying to remove just the engine, I should have specified.
Dex

The only bolts holding the engine in the frame are: a single castle nut on the front mount stud; the two bolts in the cast iron piece between engine block and stamped clutch housing that hold the back of the engine to the second cross member, the bolts in the stamped clutch housing to the cast piece. The bolts holding the cast piece are inside the housings as are the bolts holding the transmission to the stamped clutch housing. It is often difficult to get the clutch housing separated from engine as there are a couple of locating studs that fit tight and if the alignment of the two pieces is not straight it puts more pressure them making sliding apart even more difficult.

It is also necessary to raise the front of the engine so the stud clears the front cross member and flywheel clears the second cross member

I have found it much easier to remove the engine and transmission as a unit. It really helps to stab the transmission when you have free movement of both pieces. If you take off the top of the transmission (with shifter shaft), pedals off, remove the brake cross shaft brace, speedometer cable and e-brake handle then the transmission can be removed either with the engine or separately.

Going back in it is necessary to separate the u-joint ball housing and u-joint to get everything back the easiest way. Though possible to stab the rear of the tranmission into the torque tube is is really tough to get everything lined up so it slips in.

Chipper about sums it up. It is a pain of a job. This comes about largely because the rear crossmember and the cowl get in the way as you lift. I seem to also remember having to lean the engine over as I did it.I have known of some people who have modified the car so that the crossmember can be removed.
It's easier to remove than it is to replace. This of course was not a problem to Chevrolet. They dropped it all in to place on the frame and then put the body on. Ultimately there is only a very small amount of clearance for the engine to come out and go back in. I was recently helping with a "28" that was being prepared for restoration. We undid the body bolts and lifted the cowl clear of the frame. That made it a lot easier.
Good luck. Make sure that you have a lot of helpers.

Thanks Terry and Chipper, I was just about convinced that was what
needed to happen. I will read over your posts tomorrow before I
proceed to try again to get this thing out. Best never to be hastey. Thanks! Dex

Is it possible that the engine is simply stuck in the frame?

When I removed mine from my truck, I had no help. First, everything was disconnected. (I was pulling mine as a single unit--engine and transmission.) In the end, the side engine mounts were really tight in the frame and I had to encourage the removal with a jack appropriately placed under the engine. With the jack underneath and the engine crane above, I broke it loose with some light hammer work on the mounts. It did have to come out with the "fan end" oddly angled upwards to clear everything. It will be re-installed BEFORE the body goes on.

I like the idea of making the cross member removable. I'll look at that tomorrow.


Thank You.
Don

I've been away for a while but have managed to get the engine and
transmission out of the car with no trouble. I even was able to get it done by myself with an engine crane. Now I would like to call upon you all to tell me how to get the front pulley(shive) off
the crankshaft. I have a extra engine with out it's pulley and I noticed it has a woodruff key. I also need to pull the flywheel
but have'nt gotten the clutch assembly apart. I have technical info about the clutch but would like to know what I'm up against
to get the fly wheel off. Thanks. Dex

The front pulley is removed with a three jaw puller. It is a friction fit with a keyway.

After removing the clutch pressure plate and disc you will be able to see the bolts that hold the flywheel on. Make a mark on the crankshaft and the flywheel to insure you get things properly lined up when you reinstall it. Take care to not lose the special washers that are on the bolts. With all bolts removed it will release the flywheel so you can take it off. A large brass hammer will assist in the removal.

Got the flywheel off with no trouble but managed to chip it when I removed the ring gear, oh well. It took three heats, I should have used penetrating oil and more heat from the start. Any
ways it's off will soon have a new ring gear.
Today I got around to looking at the main bearing, and it don't look too good. Used plastiguage and got .002 on #3 and .003 on #1.
The #2 would not even depress the plastiguage with all three shims
(on each side) removed. I'm guessing It's time to have some new ones. What I'd like to know is who can I send this engine to for new mains poured and a good crank fitted. I do have the option
of having Texas T do it. They said they would and the price seems reasonable. I just about know they're are others in Texas
that can do it but I would have to ship it unless it's reasonably
close. I would like not to have to ship it but I will if I have to. Thanks. Dex

Hello, Not still sure if I need new main bearings or not. I'm still in the process of completely disassembling the motor. I managed to get the crank pulley(shive) off with some heat and a decent cheap two jaw puller. Now it's time for the crank GEAR to
come off. I noticed the crank gear had two 3/8 NC tapped holes in
it so I made a simple puller. I tried it earlier tonight and noticed it to will need some heat. On another slightly different
note, I removed the flywheel ring gear and it was rather tight! A
good .015" interference fit between the ring and the flywheel. I should have got it real hot before I tried to knock it off. Now
I've chipped it and will braze it up soon enough. Any thoughts and
comments appreciated. Dex

Just found this thread even though I've already got the engine and transmission back in the car. I have since learned they will
not go back in as a unit. I separated the two and partially in-
stalled the transmission with it's crossmember. I then had to
elevate the torque tube and pivot the transmission at the U-joint. I then stabbed the engine to the transmission with the
throw out bearing bushing on the transmission shaft, thinking the
bushing would 'make up' to the pressure plate and into the fingers. I seems it did not. The mating of the two went quite well but now the throw out bushing can be heard rattling.
when the engine is turned over. I think I may have to take it back apart to sort it out.

I have over the past year removed and installed the engine and transmission in my '28 Coupe five times. It is a long story but in each case I removed and installed them as a unit. If you separate the ball housing, slide it back and then split the U-joint then you don't have to elevate the torque tube.

I'm with Chipper. The recommended procedure is to install or remove the engine and transmission (and by default, the frame member) as a unit. Keeping the assembly away from a freshly painted cowl is a problem.

Did either of you (Chipper or Ray) remove or leave the brake cross shafts in place?
My question has to do with removing just the rransmission and replacing the clutch plate and throw out bearing with one of the modern ones. I have the car on a lift and I do have a transmission jack, so I can take my easy time and not crawl around on the floor.

DUUUUHH!
I should have read the whole thread....

I just did the clutch on my 28 and I left the cross shafts in place, but had to unbolt the rear axle from the springs and move it back all the way in order to get enough clearance. It was a bit of a pain, but it worked. putting it back while getting the ujoint aligned was like docking the space shuttle. We used two ratcheting straps to guide it forward one click at a time.