VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1937-1945 Starting '38 Chevy II

OK. Still working on starting the '38. I've been sidetracked after having to put my dog of 17 3/4 years to sleep, 11 days after having to put my other dog to sleep. I could have passed on this summer. Tried all y'all's spark check suggestions. No spark. So I decided to go ahead and put on the new condenser and coil, since I have them anyway. I read all the posts about how much fun removing a '38 coil can be, so I skipped all the boring parts and skipped right to the cussing, hammering and chiseling. Sucker popped off in about 5 minutes. I always worry when things go that good and sure enough, just like every project I attempt from the honeymoon to building a doghouse, it's the same result--"Mine don't look like everybody else's." My new coil is shorter and has the nipple/cone connection and both bolts you attach the wire to on one end. The other end is smooth. The coil I took off the Chevy has the nipple/cone and one connection on one end and another connection in the center of the other, indented end. My new coil looks like ones I've seen on '49, '62 and '65 Chevies. What gives here? I have pictures I can send if someone can PM me and I figure out how THAT works. Thanks.

TaylorD,
Do you want to temporarily install your incorrect coil as a trouble shooting measure? It's easy if you want to do it.
Coils which will install, as original, on your car appear frequently on ebay. I have some which are old stock aftermarket replacements. The problem you may encounter with a replacement coil is that they were frequently supplied with a changable adapter cup (where the Electrolock ignition switch attaches) to fit a number of different applications. Even Delco Remy supplied coils this way. The coil is useless without the correct adapter.
I'm looking at my 1951 Master Parts catalog and it seems to be saying that a coil or an adapter cup for the universal type coil would be the same from 1935 through 1940.
I hope this helps.

Mike

You can connect the wire from the ignition switch to the + side of the coil and the - side of the coil to the points (distributor). It will work it just looks bad and the electrolux cap needs to be tied off.

Brian

Right you are Brian, but an Electrolux is a vacuum cleaner, an Electrolock is a Chevrolet ignition switch.

TaylorD, look at ebay item 150281706892

Mike

You can also call Chevs of the 40s & The Filling Station. They sometimes have NOS coils they've come across. Kanter says they have them too. FYI if you want to make sure you don't have so much trouble removing the coil in the future take a die grinder and abrade off the locking dimple on the inside of the electrolock cap. The electrolock will fit on the coil normally. It just won't be locked on. Also if you need to rebuild your electrolock I can help some with that. Mainly you just need to replace the wire since the cloth covered wire doesn't age well. Send me a PM or e-mail if you want the details.

Thanks, guys. OK, hooked up the new coil as per your instructions, checked for spark. Nothing. Next, when daylight returns, I'll replace the condenser and try again.

A bad condenser will often give one spark then no spark until after some rest period, then another single spark. I have also had them give erratic and inconsistent spark so that the engine runs rough and has no power. I suppose no spark could be the result of a bad condenser also.
I missed the early part of your posts. I guess you are sure that you are getting fire to the coil?
Good luck.
Mike

How do I check that I'm getting fire to the coil?

Hi,

For a quick test of the electrical portion that is necessary for the car to run, is spark. Remove the center plug wire from the distributor cap and hold near a good ground source. Have someone try to start the engine. You should see some serious spark jumps. If you don't, then the problem is electrical.

Are you getting any power at the moving point (with the points in the open position) from ignition switch. If not check for power at various connections along the system back to the battery. It maybe that there is a broken wire or dirty connection somewhere between the battery and the points.
As a tempory measure connect a wire direct from the battery to the ignition switch side of the coil and test for spark.
Tony

I pulled one of the plug wires and held it close to the block and got no spark. So now I'll try the center one. Let's see if I remember what I read: to get the points to open I pull the distributor cap and crank car until they open, right? Then a screwdriver between will spark. Bear with me, this is all new to me. I have a multi-tester, but it's a little complicated cuz it's not specifically for six-volt and the directions aren't terribly helpful.

Actually you can test the points no matter the position of the rotor. If the engine stops with the points closed (what normally happens) then take a screwdriver and put it on the movable arm. Taking care to not ground the screwdriver to the center post or base plate. Move the arm so the points open and close. Do you see a spark or hear a snap? If so you have power to the points. Now is it weak and barely detectable or strong and loud? If the points are already open then just short across the point terminals with the screwdriver blade and check for spark. If weak then condensor or coil is suspect. If opening and closing points produces a weak spark at the points but a much stronger spark when shorted to the other arm, point base or center shaft (some other place than the point contacts) indicates dirty or corroded points. Clean or replace them as you need a good contact to produce a strong spark.

If no spark then check to see if you have power to the coil and point connection on the distributor. With the ignition switch on you should have power to the distributor and coil.