VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1912-1928 1928 chevy National ab

I am now the owner of my fathers car, that has been in the barn for 35 years. I would take any information or web sites were I can learn about this car. I also need a few parts and a good place to buy tires. I got the vin off of the front seat 9AB62075. I have been looking at other 28's but have not found one that has three windows on each side. the rear doors open in suicide style. Thanks alot for any information you can provide

Hi davidbaldwin,

Pull up a chair and let's talk about 1928 Chevys. You have found the forum that best provides answers for your car. We are glad you chose to join us. Very soon we will be suggesting you join the VCCA. Many benefits of being a club member.

Welcome also to the owners of 1928 vehicles club.

9 = Norwood
AB = 1928 series
62075 = The sequencial number assigned to the 1928 vehicles. Assembled in late May

Spend some time looking for some more numbers and letters on the car. Perhaps on the firewall and fropm the engine or head.

Cooker has provided me several sets of tires and I have been happy with all of them.

A picture of the car would be fun.

Here is the story on the vehicle... My Father bought the vehicle in 61 when he was 19, he and my grandparents drove it for a few years when the rear end started making a noise and they parked it. That was around the late 60's. They pulled the rear cover off and noticed the pinion gear was stripped and the ring gear was chipped in a few places... Then the years rolled by! At some point, Grandpa bought a ring and pinion set at an auction and sat it on the running board of the car. On rolls 2008 and the 100 year model t party! My grandpa has a 31 A and father had a 27 T roadster but I wont say the "F" word... Anyways, Dad said if i got the National going, I could have it, so everyday I have been working on it. The exhause valves were stuck, so I pulled the head and got them freed up and going to touch them up on our valve grinder, haven't yet though. I got the rear end out and the new ring and pinion cleaned and ready to put on and I have bearings ordered (will be here tomorrow around 9 am) The wood in the problem areas has already been replaced.

Now for some questions! The seal in the thermostat is gone, where can one be purchased or can I rebuild the one I have or can I run without one? When replacing the ring gear, do you just bolt it back on with some no.8 shoulder bolts?

Fisher body corp. Job no. 8150 Body no. N 9383

I think that is it for now! Thanks for the warm welcome!

I am also trying to figure out how to post pics for you also!!

Does it kinda look like this one? This one has different bumpers than you usually see on a 28 also the rims being painted silver is wrong, and I don't have the yellow pinstripping on yet. I just bought two Beugler pin stripping tools at a garage sale.
This is our family car, a 1928 National AB Sedan

[img][IMG]http://pic1.picturetrail.com:80/VOL1180/4341552/9153654/136372660.jpg[/img][/img]

Yes it does. Nice car! When dad bought it, mine was all black and he wanted it green with black fenders so they painted it. I am wondering what the original color of mine was so when I break down the tires, I can get the rims painted. Somethings that I don't have and EVENTUALLY.... want are chevy headlights (one is from and A and the other is from a T) The vehicle has been parked inside, but someone stole the rear bumpers and tail light some time!?!?

Job No 8150 = Five passenger sedan, N = Norwood, 9383 is the sequential number of bodies produced.

Thanks for the information, again. I just thought of another question... The exhaust, is there a place to buy original exhaust or could I just take it to a custom shop and they can make something?

hey dave
go to the filling station for the exhaust.
they have alot of repo parts for your ride.
i had my exhaust made local for my 30.

There is a '28 Sedan in Warsaw, IN. Don't know how far it is from you but he is working on it to get it ready to tour.

Shoulder bolts will work fine. We use a little red loctite on the nuts. Also need to grind the heads of the bolts or nuts a bit to keep from interference.

Warsaw isn't to far. I almost have the head done, worked on it a few hours today. They didn't call about my bearings though. I won't have any time this weekend to work on it anyways. Thanks for the info again! I hadn't found the filling station till now. Looks great!

I am still curious about the thermostat you guys run. The one that is currently in the vehicle has the seal? out of it. I see the ones the filling station are selling look like todays thermostats. What do you think?

I recommend you run a thermostat in your 1928. It would be nice if you could find an original bellows type unit. If you have a correct 1928 water outlet it is made to hold a thermostat. The bracket with the two screws holds the thermostat in place. If you can get a 140 that would be great, a 160 would also be acceptable. The new thermostats for Chevrolet will fit in the correct 1928 water outlet.

I agree with Ray about the use of a thermostat.The original bellows type 1928 thermostat was designed to open at 120 degrees.
I'm currently running a 160 degree bellows type thermostat with only a 2 bladed fan on my '28 truck,and it still runs too cool,even in the summer,or working it with a load.
The motometer only ever makes it half way between the cold to the bottom of the circle on the scale.If I run without a thermostat,the engine just won't perform properly,no matter how hard you push it.

I currently have the original bellows type installed, but it doesn't appear that it is closed and is loose, I am just guessing that there is some type of seal that has gone missing. I will take a closer look today and let you know.

How do you post pictures on here so I can show my car off! :)

I had alittle time so I pulled the thermostat out and found that the top part of it was completely unscrewed from the bellows. I thought that I was sitting good till I realized there was a crack on one of the bellows and it is filled with water.... I can just buy a 160 chevrolet thermostat and it will fit in the original housing?

I haven't had time to finish the head or work on the rear end yet.

One more thing... The clutch pedel is stuck, what is the best way to free it up?

Thanks again guys! Also how do I become a member?

Got some pictures for you..... I got rid of that nest that was under the front seat! :)

Hi David,

I have seen people that started with a lot less than you have to work on.

MEMBERSHIP APPLICATION

Check your PM.

You should seriously consider not restoring it and keeping it as a driveable barn find. Does the world need another restored 1928 chev?. But a sound driveable barn find like this with lots of intact archaeology is a treasure. I wish I had one!

Hi:

Most people would look at these photos and simply scratch their heads. We look at these photos and we say simply beautiful. Then (at least in my case) I look at this and say.....I can't wait to get to work on it.

How can I post photos?

Thanks

Don

Thanks guys. My plan is to get it roadworthy and drive it. Growing up we drove the Model A all the time, many trips to town just for fun, thats what I want to make this into for now. The A's body was painted put rough body and original interior with no headliner, but full of memories! Probably eventually work and restore it little by little. I don't want a perfect car that I'm scared to use!

I will be at a camp this weekend and I'm having withdraws from it all ready!

Hey Don, This is how I posted the pictures. I opened an account with photobucket.com and loaded the pictures there, then when you post, there is alittle icon (the third one) that is to enter an image, you click on it and copy and paste the web link that is under the picture on photobucket.com and paste it there.

I know confusing, hope this helps!

David,
Go to this site for a lot of good info.
http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/

Thanks Bill! I haven't had a chance to examine that website at depth yet (been to busy reading on this one!) So much to learn. I am so glad I found this forum.

Back to working on the old Chevy!! I bought a battery and the starter works, horn works and one head light works! Need to make a new positive side cable though.

Question, how do I get to the clutch? My clutch is stuck and need to work on that soon.

With the vehicle up and on safe stands, remove every connection to the two brake bars. Now remove the bolts that hold the brake bars and remove them. Remove the U-Joint cover, slide the "ball" towards the rear of the vehicle as far as it will go, and split the U-Joint. Remove the two bolts that mount the parking brake to the side of the transmission. Remove the shift lever by removing the 4 top bolts. Remove the 4 bolts that attach the transmission to the bell housing. Remove the transmission. Remove the two bolts on each side of the engine cross member. Support the back end of the engine and remove all the bolts around the edge of the bellhousing. Remove the bellhousing so you have access to the clutch pressure plate and after removing the pressure plate you can now remove the clutch driven disc.

Thanks David (Info on the photos). I'll get to it tomorrow.

Don