VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1937-1945 Removing Steering Wheel

Well, I finally had my 39 Mster Dlx accessory steering wheel restored - I'll upload a couple of pictures in another posting. I'm having problems removing the stock wheel. It was an NOS unit I installed perhaps two or three years ago. The original wheel came off quite easily as I remember, but I'm having an extremely difficult time with the current wheel. Both times I used a three-armed puller, but the NOS unit is now just cracking all apart. It's a real shame because it was perfect before I started - I'm quite disappointed. The base of it chipped apart and the main housing is now cracking. It's about 1/3 to 1/2 the way off the steering shaft and I just hate to keep cracking it, but I suppose it's ruined anyway.

Any advice for getting the wheel removed (I've tried some WD40 & PB Blaster)? Any advice for when I install the accessory wheel so it won't get ruined if I ever have to remove it in the future? Thanks!

This subject or removal has been discussed several times here on the forum.

When you install the new wheel do not tighten the retaining nut so tight. It might even be prudent to put some axle grease on the shaft prior to installation.

Do not use a jaw type puller! Use a steering wheel puller which is a puller with two slotted arms that bolts or screws fit into. You use the holes for the horn button or other holes provided to pull off.

The way we removed them back in the day when dirt was young and I was a body & fender man was to:
1: Loosen the nut but don't take it all the way off.
2: Position the seat so that your knees are snugly under the steering wheel so that you can push up on the wheel by flexing your feet.
3: Place one hammer on the steering shaft nut & strike that hammer sharply with another hammer while pressing forcefully up with your knees.

I never had one take more than two strikes to pop loose. Is that the "correct" way? Nope but it works. I used a universal puller with "J" hooks to pull the wheel on my 38. The "J" hooks pull against the spokes of the wheel. As Ray mentioned, putting anti-seize on the splines before installing will make any future removal much easier.

Tiny, i wouldnt recommend striking one hammer against another hammer , as the hardened steel can shatter,

Placing a brass or aluminum rod on the steering wheel nut,and hitting that will not damage the steering shaft, nut or the hammer.

Having the nut on will also stop you wacking the steering wheel into your face as it loosens.

Agreed. Like I said it's not the "right" way but it works.

I'm sure you did not think about what you posted. I would NOT direct the blows to the nut, but to the shaft end. Striking the nut with loosen threads runs the risk of damaging the nut and threads on the shaft.

Remember this advice the next time you need to remove a rear hub. Do not even consider using the large nut devices that you screw on the end of the axle and beat to death with a large hammer. Get/borrow a correct hub puller.

Yes Ray,

The nut should be wound up only enough, not past flush so that you can use the brass drift directly on the shaft and not on the nut. Wording does go astray some times.

I knew that you understood what you were saying, it's just that sometimes it comes off the tongue crooked. I just wanted it to be clearer for other people attempting the same procedure.

And thats why we NEED to have tech advisers on this site, so that
we don't mislead others ,when we dont re-read what we have written,

Keep up the good work !!!

You should be using a 2 bolt puller, not a 3 jaw puller.

That's what I'll try next - no doubt probably should have been first! Question - the only two holes in the stock steering wheel hub are for the prongs of the horn button and they are unthreaded and narrow, perhaps 1/8th inch. Or, is there a collar that fits under the wheel? I'll also try a search on the site.

If you have a real nasty one it may be that you have to thread those two holes after enlarging them. Make sure you have a good secure contact in the threaded holes for your puller.

I have had extremely good luck with using my knees and legs under the wheel while making a solid blow with a heavy hammer and a brass drift. I have also had luck with a helper pulling up while I did the dirty work.

Keep us posted.

You can thread the holes with a # 10-32 tap. Then use long machine screws and washers under the heads to keep them from pulling though the puller arms or holes. Put a tension on the puller and rap on the center screw. Has never failed to remove a wheel. Does the same as legs pulling up or another person except is more consistant.

Also has been posted in ChatII and the G&D several times. Guess we need to make some of these techniques easier to find. Or create a restoration help database for them.

Thanks all. I searched the whole chat site (all forums option) with three words - "removing steering wheel". No hits, except my own posting. Guess I should try just the words "steering wheel" - thought that would be too broad and give me too many hits.

I tried the trick with the knees to no avail. I'll try the two hole puller next. Now it appears the steering wheel may be cocked a bit.

Just goes to show you - there's always something! :) And I thought removing it was going to be the easy part! :(

Hi Ralph.

You can make a small steering wheel puller to suit your wheel
out of a piece of flat bar steel, approximatley 3/8 inch thick.

Measure the distance between the two horn "s" wire prongs.

Mark a line down the centre of the steel and mark the distance on the steel, 1/2 way each side from the middle, Drill these two holes to about 7/32", which will give you a little bit of clearance for the two 10-32 UNF bolts.

Drill a hole in the middle ,between the other two holes and tap for about a 3/8 UNF fine thread bolt, Buy a high tensile steel bolt to use in the centre position.

The steering wheel will need the two horn wire holes drilled to the correct tapping drill size , which off memory is a number 20 or number 21 drill

You will have to buy a taper 10-32 UNF tap to start the tapping of the thread in the steering wheel holes, Use some Rocol cutting
lubricant as well.

You may need to get the tap from a specialist engineering or tooling company.
The tap is 10- 32 meaning it is a 10 gauge size with 32 teeth per inch and is a UNF , Unified National fine thread.


I would also check the size that the horn wire holes are now at with a drill to make sure that they are not already larger than
the tapping drill size, as you may need to go up in size to 1/4 -28 if they are bigger for some reason.

Use some grease on the centre bolt tread and face of the bolt where it contacts the steering shaft, and bolt to the steering wheel hub with two 10-32 bolts.

Then wind the centre bolt only, and the steering wheel should come off.

I'm with Tiny and Antique Mechanic. A couple of years ago, a friend of mine and myself pulled a banjo steering wheel carcus off a '38 dunebuggy that had been sitting in the woods for about 30 years. I thought we would never get it off when I first looked at it. I was able to back the nut off and then I put it back on until it was flush with the end of the shaft. My friend put upward pressure on the wheel and I gave the nut/shaft a couple of good raps with a fairly large ball peen hammer and presto, the wheel popped right off! I wanted to have the wheel restored but at a cost of about $500 plus the additional cost of a banjo wheel horn button, I have given up on that idea!! Beamer

Ralph :
Where did you get the wheel restored ? Was is it done to your satisfaction ? I have a 39 master deluxe and looking for a place to get my steering wheel restored. Thanks

As Paul Harvey says, Now the rest of the story... Went out and bought a bolt type puller on sale at Harbor Tools. Thanks anyway Jack for the details on how to make one, but the sale price was too hard to pass up. The two holes in the steering wheel were 5/32" so I threaded it to 10-24 because I had some 3-1/2" long screws. Put it all together and the wheel came off effortlessly in less than a minute. Now it seems so obvious it makes me wonder why I didn't think of it! Thanks all!

PK: I have an old posting I'll bring forward about deciding who to select for restoring my wheel and I'll post a picture. I used Quality Restorations and I was extremely pleased. A bit pricey, but fantastic work.

What I did was get three large washers from the hardware store 3 1/2" .Cut a slot with a cut off grinder to match the inside diameter hole witch also slips under the steering wheel and over the shaft.Rotated the slot to all fall at a differant spot for strengh and put the puller as you did but grabbing the outside of the washer not the under side of the steering wheel.Works good!

Can not believe were still having discussion on removing a poor steering wheel so I guess I might as well add my two cents. I removed my steering column by using a steering wheel puller sold by "OEM Tools for Professionals" part # 25200. I bought it at an Auto Zone Store. It is small enough to fit are old Chevies(mine is a 41) and comes with an assortment of two different bolt threads in two sizes. It came with the right thread so all I did was tap the end with a hammer after getting it tight on the wheel. If you loosen the nut most of the way, but don't take it off, the whole thing releases without it all coming off in your lap and scratching something. Good Luck, Mike