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Dad and I removed the head and were pulling all hoses, etc. and he broke off what is described as the 'stud' on the driver's side of the engine. It's GM part 3.582. Can this just be replaced, or will I need to get the block machined? What purpose does this have in the engine? Please advise!
Thanks for all your help.
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The accellerator pedal to carburetor bell crank pivots on the stud. The broken off piece should not be too difficult to remove. The new part is in group # 3.582 and is part # 3835384. Fits 1937-49 cars and trucks.Its old number was 839420. The number was changed in the late '40's....and either will fit.
I will bet that some one will have one :)
Gene Schneider
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Grease Monkey
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That would be great if someone knew of where I could get one. I can get a replacement from obsolete chevy.com I think. Do you know if I'll have to rethread the block to make the stud fit again, or does it just fit into place? I don't know because it snapped in half...
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Technical Advisor ChatMaster - 10,000
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It will not be necessary to re-thread the block, however the end that is still in the block must be removed. It may require some clever moves to remove it, but it can be done.  
RAY Chevradioman http://www.vccacolumbiariverregion.org/1925 Superior K Roadster 1928 Convertible, Sport, Cabriolet 1933 Eagle, Coupe 1941 Master Deluxe 5-Passenger Coupe 1950 Styleline Deluxe 4-Door Sedan 1950 Styleline Deluxe Convertible 2002 Pontiac, Montana, Passenger Van 2014 Impala, 4-Door Sedan, White Diamond, LTZ 2017 Silverado, Double Cab, Z71, 4X4, White, Standard Bed, LTZ If you need a shoulder to cry on, pull off to the side of the road. Death is the number 1 killer in the world.
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Its threaded into the block. If the piece is sticking out from the block grab it with a vise grip and unthread it. If not get a small easy-out set, drill a hole in the center and pound in the easy-out and unthread it. Follow the directions that come with the easy-out set. If you have a reversable drill drill it in reverse with a left hand bit and it may spin out.
Last edited by Chev Nut; 07/21/08 10:50 PM.
Gene Schneider
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If you decide to drill the stud make every effort to get it centered so you can rethread the hole if necessary.
How Sweet the roar of a Chevy four!
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Grease Monkey
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So being the complete dufus that I am (this is my first restoration) I misread the engine diagram, and it's actually the Oil Distributor Valve that's been broken. Part 1.787. To remove and replace it should I just follow the instructions in the previous posts from Chevnut and Chipper? Thanks again.
Last edited by Burrell1948; 07/24/08 10:20 PM.
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The oil distributor valve on a 1948 engine is BEHIND a triangular metal plate retained to the block with three screws. Lower side of block-about center -front to rear.
I suspect that what is broken is a fitting for an oil line. Does it appear to be hollow?
Gene Schneider
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Is it possible we are talking about the block drain valve? This problem requires a picture for a correct diagnoses.
RAY Chevradioman http://www.vccacolumbiariverregion.org/1925 Superior K Roadster 1928 Convertible, Sport, Cabriolet 1933 Eagle, Coupe 1941 Master Deluxe 5-Passenger Coupe 1950 Styleline Deluxe 4-Door Sedan 1950 Styleline Deluxe Convertible 2002 Pontiac, Montana, Passenger Van 2014 Impala, 4-Door Sedan, White Diamond, LTZ 2017 Silverado, Double Cab, Z71, 4X4, White, Standard Bed, LTZ If you need a shoulder to cry on, pull off to the side of the road. Death is the number 1 killer in the world.
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Grease Monkey
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Ok, here's a link to what I'm talking about. It's near the middle bottom of the picture:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/28196303@N07/2703146348/
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So you post a picture and we are still not positive as to the object. It is NOT the accelerator pivot, it is NOT the block drain plug, but could be the return connection from the oil filter. Is it possible to clean the area around the object and take another picture on a 45 degree angle?
RAY Chevradioman http://www.vccacolumbiariverregion.org/1925 Superior K Roadster 1928 Convertible, Sport, Cabriolet 1933 Eagle, Coupe 1941 Master Deluxe 5-Passenger Coupe 1950 Styleline Deluxe 4-Door Sedan 1950 Styleline Deluxe Convertible 2002 Pontiac, Montana, Passenger Van 2014 Impala, 4-Door Sedan, White Diamond, LTZ 2017 Silverado, Double Cab, Z71, 4X4, White, Standard Bed, LTZ If you need a shoulder to cry on, pull off to the side of the road. Death is the number 1 killer in the world.
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Grease Monkey
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Yes, sorry but that was the only picture I had of the area, and the car is at my father-in-law's farm. I'll be going out that way today, and will try to get another picture taken at a better angle, and hopefully cleaned up a bit... Thanks again.
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Grease Monkey
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http://www.flickr.com/photos/28196303@N07/2704714862/
Check out that picture, I'm pointing right to the part in question, and you can see what's around it pretty clearly. If you need more pictures, check out the rest of the photostream of the car, and I've uploaded a few others. Thanks again! I plan on doing a thorough cleaning obviously, but I'm in the very beginning stages of restoration and this is a LONG term project :)
Eli
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I'll hang in there with my last guess. I think it is the oil return line from the oil filter.
RAY Chevradioman http://www.vccacolumbiariverregion.org/1925 Superior K Roadster 1928 Convertible, Sport, Cabriolet 1933 Eagle, Coupe 1941 Master Deluxe 5-Passenger Coupe 1950 Styleline Deluxe 4-Door Sedan 1950 Styleline Deluxe Convertible 2002 Pontiac, Montana, Passenger Van 2014 Impala, 4-Door Sedan, White Diamond, LTZ 2017 Silverado, Double Cab, Z71, 4X4, White, Standard Bed, LTZ If you need a shoulder to cry on, pull off to the side of the road. Death is the number 1 killer in the world.
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Grease Monkey
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In that case, how would you recommend I remove what's left and install a replacement part? What would be the best route?
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I would start by soaking the area inside and outside with some WD-40 (or whatever you like to use when doing a soak job). I would guess that you have a brass fitting that was on the end of an oil line. When you have the area cleaned well and soaked good you may find enough of the shoulder of the fitting to grab for an unscrew. Do not force, try counter-clock-wise and then clockwise until it is loose enough to finally remove. If you by accident break the protrusion, don't worry. It can be removed with a screwdriver or easy(?)-out. Hang in there.
RAY Chevradioman http://www.vccacolumbiariverregion.org/1925 Superior K Roadster 1928 Convertible, Sport, Cabriolet 1933 Eagle, Coupe 1941 Master Deluxe 5-Passenger Coupe 1950 Styleline Deluxe 4-Door Sedan 1950 Styleline Deluxe Convertible 2002 Pontiac, Montana, Passenger Van 2014 Impala, 4-Door Sedan, White Diamond, LTZ 2017 Silverado, Double Cab, Z71, 4X4, White, Standard Bed, LTZ If you need a shoulder to cry on, pull off to the side of the road. Death is the number 1 killer in the world.
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I realize I'm not the sharpest knife in the drawer, but I have the opinion that what we see is a tubing fitting screwed into a small ELL. What you really need to do is do like Ray suggested is take a wire brush and get all the crud away from the part, it may be as simple as screwing the ELL out of the block, see if the piece that screws into the engine block is brass.
Life's a long winding trail, love Jesus and ride a good horse!
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Grease Monkey
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Ok, that's my next step then. I'll be cleaning things up this week. I'm going to pull off the fenders so I can get easier access to everything. Just so I understand the 'oil return', is it the same as filling station part fs-82 and fs-84? Which length is recommended if that's what it is? Thanks again for everything - you guys are fantastic.
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I think Mr. Mack is correct. When you get it cleaned off, I think you'll find a brass elbow fitting that will screw out of the block.
I'm in Columbia, MO Call me if I can help. I've got some parts and a little know-how on the subject of Chevy 6s.
Mike Russell
573-442-6759
ml.russell1936@gmail.com
Many miles of happy motoring
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Backyard Mechanic
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Backyard Mechanic
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I just checked my two "48" engines and what I see there is a small cast male plug with a square head that does NOTHING. I have never noticed it before despite rebuilding three engines.
I had a look at my parts manual and the photograph, "ENGINE ASSEMBLY-LEFT HAND SIDE" clearly shows that plug but I can find no mention of it in the parts list.
I have a dead block in the shed and will have a look at that tomorrow.
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