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Joined: Jul 2008
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Grease Monkey
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Grease Monkey
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can anyone tell me at what rpm should the timing be set on a 207 engine with a manual transmission?engine was rebuilt and bored 30 over.
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Joined: Jan 2002
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ChatMaster - 25,000
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ChatMaster - 25,000
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To set the timing- First set the octane selector (little dial at base of distributor) at the center 0 position. Using timing light connected to #1 cylinder and engine at SLOW idle speed the pointer in the center of the opening of the bell housing should line up with the steel ball in the flywheel. The distributor can be rotated as necessary by loosening the clamp screw at its base. It is not necessary to disconnect the vacuum line. With this setting the engine timing is set for operation with 65 octane gas which was the rating of the gas in 1936. Then the timing can be advanced farther with the octane selector dial without using a timing light. Can go as far at the 10 Deg. advanced mark.I have found that they run best at about 8 Deg. advanced but you can play around with it. The instructions in 1936 were to advance the timing untill a slight ping can be heard at full throttle but with 87 octane gas this would not be possible in the 10 Deg. range. If advanced engine will turn over "hard" when hot. Advancing the timing to the best point will increase engine power and produce the best gas milage.
Last edited by Chev Nut; 07/14/08 08:57 AM.
Gene Schneider
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Joined: Sep 2007
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Oil Can Mechanic
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Oil Can Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2007
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In reguards to timing does anyone have any idea how the pointer in the bellhouse is attached as I can not find one when I timed my engine. I just centered the ball in the hole. it runs real strong with the octane selector advanced but has a hesitation/bucking feel that goes away when retarded somewhat. Thanks
J Franklin
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Joined: Apr 2002
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Oil Can Mechanic
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Oil Can Mechanic
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If memory serves me, the pointer is a steel spike that attaches to the left side of the bell housing opening.Yours must be broken off. You should be fine if you align the ball with the center of the opening. Richard
I try to be the person my dog thought I was.
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Joined: Jan 2002
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ChatMaster - 25,000
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ChatMaster - 25,000
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From 1933 and up the hole in the flywheel housing is on the right side.
Gene Schneider
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Joined: Apr 2002
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Oil Can Mechanic
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Oil Can Mechanic
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From the front the hole is on the left side of the engine on a 36. However, I was referring to the left side of the hole for the pointer. Richard
I try to be the person my dog thought I was.
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Grease Monkey
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Grease Monkey
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thanks to all, however i still don't know at what rpm i should be using to adjust the timing.
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Joined: Apr 2002
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Oil Can Mechanic
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Oil Can Mechanic
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I just adjust mine at a normal idle. You just don't want it fast enough for the vaccum advance to do it's job and advance the timing. Richard
I try to be the person my dog thought I was.
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Joined: Jan 2002
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ChatMaster - 25,000
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ChatMaster - 25,000
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I mentioned that in my first post. Should be set at a slow idle. If RPM is too high the advance weights began to advance it as well as the vacuum advance starts to recieve vacuum.
Gene Schneider
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Joined: Dec 2002
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Oil Can Mechanic
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Oil Can Mechanic
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If you're using a tach/dwell meter and can accurately measure rpm's you can safely set the timing while it's running between 650 and about 800 rpm.
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Joined: Jan 2002
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ChatMaster - 25,000
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ChatMaster - 25,000
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I would suggest staying closer to 400 RPM. The centrifugal advance begins to cut in at from 450 to 700 Rpm.
Gene Schneider
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Joined: Dec 2002
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Oil Can Mechanic
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Oil Can Mechanic
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Just for grins I've turned down my idle so low you can see the individual fan blades turning...probably way less than 400 rpm. I didn't see an appreciable difference in the timing advance when I bumped it up to about 600-650rpm. I usually set the idle speed by ear and seat of the pants...high enough so it won't stall when first started but not so high that it sounds racy when warmed up.
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