VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1937-1945 Dumb question ... but

OK. If the answer to my question is what I think it might be, I'm going to feel really stupid. When I am starting my '38, what position should the ignition key be in .... straight up or one click to the right? When I attempted to start it, I turned the key to the right. However, I recently watched a video of a '50 on ebay and the driver turned the key to the right, then back to the left and then started the car. Or so it appeared. I remember that when we started a '49 years back, we ran the battery down almost to the end, then turned the key in an illogical position (to me, anyway) and it fired up. Have I had the ignition on the wrong position all this time. The good news, even if I'm really stupid, maybe now the car will start. I'm going to try this next week when I have time and can uncover it.
Thanks.

Not a dumb question. Yor 1938 key will be verticle when off and at about the 2;00 o'clock position when running.
The 1948-52 is entirely different. The switch is locked when key is in the 9;00 o'clock position, car is run in the verticle position and whe in the 2;00 o'clock position engine is also off, and when key is removed the switch can be turned on with NO key.These years had one key that fit everything The thought was you could leve the switch in the unlocked position when car is left at a parking garage and the trunk and glove box can not be opened.
This was really (and still is) a confusion thing. Most turn the switch to the 2;00 o,clock position and try to strat the car. Buick used a similar deal from 1940 and up.

As with any car, the proof of the puddin is to watch the ampmeter when the ignition is turned on. The ampmeter will show some draw when the switch is in the run position. If it doesn't show some draw, hit the starter and watch the meter. It should flicker if the ignition is in the on position.

Thanks, fellas. That's good news and bad news. I was trying to start it right, which means there's a problem I can't figure out. I'm going to research this site and see if I can turn up something new. I can get it to turn over, but not to fire. I bought a meter, but it's 12 and 6-volt and the instructions aren't too clear on how to use it. I've also bought a new coil. Is there any web site that offers a straight through step-by-step what to check why it won't start tutorial. I want to get the car going so a few people can enjoy it with me before they are too old too and I'm on a limited budget. The fellow who was to help me is out of pocket for a bit.
And oh, yeah, one of you was going to PM me a pix of a '38 heater, but it appears when I tried to send you my email I only sent it to myself. I used to know how to do that, but it appears I've forgotten it.
Thanks.

You sent me a picture of a 1941 heater. I want to send you a picture of the 1938 heaters but need your email address.
The engine needs two things to run. Spark and gas. The spark plugs will get spark only when the key is on. Remove a plug wire from a plug. With the key on have some one turn over the engine while you old the wire (not from the metal end) about 1/8" from a not rusted part of the engine. If you have spark it will jump the gap....If so correct timing will be in the next installment.

When you say a non-rusty part, do you also mean unpainted? Previous owner painted everything black.

Taylor
It wont matter if it is painted or rusty, so long as it will make a connection back to the coil. Dont touch any other part of the car while your offsider is cranking it over (you will let it go very quickly).
Tony