I am about to install a new fuel line out of 5/16" steel tubing on my '36 Master 5 window coupe. Can anyone provide me with the correct original routing. I did retain the several pieces of what was left of the old fuel line when I removed it in 1981 and replaced it with a plastic tubing (temporary), but am having a devel of a time trying to figure out the correct routing on the frame. Any discription, sketch or pictures would be welcomed.
Thank you in advance.
1934 Chevy 1 1/2 ton Farm Truck 1936 Chevy Master DeLuxe Series FA 5-window coupe 1961 Chevy Series 10 Fleetside 1963 Dodge M37
Swede: Depending on the condition of the frame you may be able to find the original tubing clips that are located on the lower flange of the frame rail. The top part of the clip may be broken off but you may find the part that clamps in the hole in the frame. Replacement clips are easy to find. On my '35 the line from the fuel tank runs behind the right rear shock, then along the frame and through the large hole in the X member, then to the pump. From the pump it turns up and runs along the front edge of the engine block, turns 90 degrees and goes between the valve cover and the thermostat housing. There's a clip on the manifold side of the thermostat that holds the line. From there it jogs up and to the rear to connect to the carb. Yes, a picture is worth a thousand words but I don't have one to scan or send you. Perhaps others can help.
Coachhill: Thanks for the reply. I should have been a little more specific on what I don't know (that sounds odd). I can account for three fuel line clips.
My biggest problem is the shape of the fuel line from the tank to the X-frame member. From the tank outlet the fuel line has to have an offset bend approximately 5" to the side to allow it to follow along the frame ..... top flange I believe. How much of a vertical bend does it have going over the axle .... similar to the frame? It appears that is passes the shock linkage on the outside near the frame. I think the line is then cliped to the parking brake cable support bracket as it has an extra hole in it (this would then be the first clip from the gas tank). The fuel line would then continue forward under the frame upper flange and cliped again (second clip) before an offset bend as it goes through the large hole in the X-member. From there the line appears to drop down and follows the top side of the lower flange of the frame (where there is a 3rd clip). It continues along on the lower flane up to about the fire wall in the engine compartment. I have the old section of the formed fuel line (which may not be original) which indicates the fuel line makes a 90 degree bend toward the engine, then approximately 90 degree forward, 90 degree up and 90 degree into the pump inlet (from memory so may not be quite correct). It would seem that the fuel line should make about a 30 degree bend away from the frame near the fire wall and then a 90 degree up and and another 90 degree into the the fuel pup inlet. I think I will be able to dig up enough pictures of the engine compartment to give me a good idea of correct fuel line routing to the fuel pump.
The fuel line between the pump and carb is orginial and good condition. I do need a couple of the fuel line / vaccum line clips tho.
The next question is the best way to install the fuel line. I think I will first straighten the rolled up bulk fuel line. Then I will attempt to thread it through the frame and then try to put in the required bends. This may be difficult, as formed tubing is hard enough to duplicate on the bench but I don't believe that I can install a pre-formed fuel line without screwing it up. Has anyone had any experience doing one or the other methods?
1934 Chevy 1 1/2 ton Farm Truck 1936 Chevy Master DeLuxe Series FA 5-window coupe 1961 Chevy Series 10 Fleetside 1963 Dodge M37
Swede, I think I've offered about as much advice as I dare...the '36 has juice brakes and my '35 is mechanical, so the parking brake is probably different. I don't have access to my parts book so I can't confirm that right now. I don't know if I did the routing behind the right rear shock correctly or not. I was trying de-bug a rattle in the frame area and I moved the line from inboard of the shock to behind it. There's enough room there and it keeps the line secured. I used straight lengths of steel tubing to form mine but I also added a clear fuel filter about mid-way between the tank and the pump. It's secured to the frame rail but easy to inspect as needed. Just a little extra protection, and it made the long run two pieces, not one...so it's a lot easier to install. In general the fuel line does follow the bends of the frame rails over the axle. The lower flange of the frame rail is roughly in line with the pump inlet, so only a gentle S bend is needed to make the run from the firewall/starter area to the pump. Hope you can find a better picture of the routing. I have a copy of an old movie Jam Handy produced in 1935 and it shows very brief glimpses of original fuel line locations. I'll send you the link if I can find it on the internet.
Update: The '36 Master 5 window coupe requires about 10'8" of 5/16" steel fuel line .... start with 11' and do not put the two bends or 'S' curve in the engine compartment. All of the the remainder of the bends can be made on the bench (I did not put the two bends in at the tank on the bench but should have). Unless yu have the old original fuel line to use as a pattern, preform a pattern using a very heavy stiff wire so you can verify the bends before copying them to the tubing. The formed fuel line then can be inserted from the rear (with the fuel tank removed) without to much trouble and the bends/line tweeked to fit. The approximately 2" excess at each end can be cut off after the final bends are made and is good insurance in case you are off a little.
fuzzyswede
1934 Chevy 1 1/2 ton Farm Truck 1936 Chevy Master DeLuxe Series FA 5-window coupe 1961 Chevy Series 10 Fleetside 1963 Dodge M37
Glad to hear you got that worked out. By the way, where did you route the line in the area near the rear shock absorber? Is the line inboard of the shock or did you put it between the shock and the frame?
The fuel line passes rearward through the two X-frame cross members and then has a slight upward and outward bend and then inward and downward (to provide clearance over the parking brake cable / connecting rod attachment) to about inline with the frame lower flange in front of the shock body. The line then is then bent upward to run parallel to the lower frame member approximately 1/2" from the frame (clearing the shock body) and over the support bracket for the steel brake line / hose connector support. This bracket has a hole for attaching the brake line. The fuel line then continues upward / rearward for a couple of inches inside the frame lower flange (outside of the shock linkage) before being formed upward / outward (in the area that the frame lower flange is formed down to provide line clearance). I then formed the line to follow the curve of the frame over the axle about 1" over the frame lower flange until making a 90 degree bend inward, then 90 degree down with a final approximately 110 degree bend to line up with the gas tank outlet.
I intially was just going to follow inside the frame lower flange but relief of the lower flange behind the shock body in front of the axle appears to indicate the fuel line was actually recessed within the frame over the axle and seems to be verfied by my old fuel line remenant. There is something like 14 bends in the line and getting them in the correct plane to each other was a bitch of a job, but looks quite nice.
I think the fuel line routing may be different between the '35 and '36 due to the juice brakes.
Mike
Last edited by fuzzyswede; 07/14/0801:23 AM.
1934 Chevy 1 1/2 ton Farm Truck 1936 Chevy Master DeLuxe Series FA 5-window coupe 1961 Chevy Series 10 Fleetside 1963 Dodge M37
Just a caution in installing the fuel line. Put tape on the end of the line you are feeding through. Before the final connection, apply air pressure to the line to insure it is still clean.
Mike, I agree, the routing is slightly different due to the mechanical vs. juice brakes. That little cartoon video was from '35 and you can catch a very brief glimpse of the right rear mechanical linkage. Glad to hear you got it all put together correctly. It's always rewarding when you tackle a tough project, do your homework, and get it done the right way!
