VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1937-1945 Thanks and front clip question

I want to thank everyone at this site for the wealth of information and experiance that you impart to every response you give. I have learned so much not just by your answers to my questions, but by reading responses to others questions.

Great work! Here is my 1940 Town Sedan http://photobucket.com/danschevy

I think that I will leave the front clip off to start the motor, adjust caster and camber, ( new shocks) bleed the brakes and deal with inevitable leaks etc etc.

I plan to drive it and get it running well before I put the front clip back on.

Other than taping the horn and front light terminals to prevent shorting, is ther any thing else I should be aware of? Is this a good idea and has anybody else done this?

My thanks again for your work.

chevy40

Looks like you chose a good color, Harbor Blue. Is the paint job complete now?
I suspect that you want the engine to appear correct as far as paint color is concerned. If so th elbow in the lower hose should be black, the oil filler/greather and the oil cap is black (and fan)...actually the acorn nuts were painted gray but most leave them unpainted due to chipping
It will not be possible to do an accurate front end alignment with the front clip removed. The front end will be sitting up too high causing the camber to go too far positive and the toe-in will be thrown off also.
As long as the fan dosen't contact the radiator there should be no problem in driving it minus the front clip, seeing the wires are protected.
I enlarger the engine picture only, will to the others later and may have some comments --- if you don't mind.

Harbor blue was the original color- I am painting myself, but plan to bolt rear fenders up with shims where welting would be- Bring to a body shop for final coat of paint- loosen fenders and remove shims so I can insert new welting and not have paint get on the welting. Think this will work?

Good point about lack of weight without clip affecting caster and camber.
I will take to alignment shop after front clip is on.

Feel free to comment on anything that I can do to make more original.

I know it would not look as close to original as it does without all of your help from info I have got from this forum.

Thanks again---- chevy40

I have a question because I do not know any better. Is the fuel pump mounted with the bowl pointing up? I always thought that the glass bowl was on the bottom to collect the junk that the filter caught. Another goofy question from a 31 owner.

Bowl down. Sediment and water sink to the bottom.

The 1929-36 (except 1934) has a bowl to the rear of the fuel pump. There is no filter involved and the "pieces" just settle in the bowl and they pass along. This bowl faces down. The 1937-54 has a filter bowl on top of the fuel pump facing UP. There is a super fine filter screen clipped to the top of the fuel pump casting that prevents "pices" from passing. This unit was cleaned by removing the glass bowl and blowing out the debris that settled in the bottom. This operation was part of the tune-up process. An add on filter mounted in front of the carburetoe has the bowl in the down position.
Wasn't sure as to just what year you were refering to.

Possible correction . I believe that I said the reduced weight will make the camber positive....should have said negative.
From experiance I believe it would be best to check the fender to body fit before the car is painted.
The body area behind the fenders should be body color, including the part that is behind the wheel. Could call it the body half of the wheel housing.

Thanks for the answer to my question. We are never to old to learn something new.