VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1929-1932 Radiator Cap Frozen

Well, I replaced my radiator a couple of years ago with a new honey comb core from The Filling Station. I love it!! Car runs cool, and it looks great. But, now I have an issue. I check the coolant last fall, and put the car away for the winter. I started it a couple of times a month, and awaited spring. Now spring is here, and i can't get the #$^& radiator cap off.

I have tried a strap wrench, and an oil filter wrench with rubber around the cap as not to damage the chrome. No luck. I get enough pressure on it, and it looks like any more I will bend the upper tank. My next paln is to heat the cap, using a heat protecting cover I use for plumbing work to protect the shroud, and hood. I am hoping his works.


Sorry for being long winded. I guess my question is how can I prevent this from happening again. Anti sieze compund on the threads? Has this happened to anyone else? And if heat doesn't work, any other suggestions?

Thanks,

Jim

Hi,

I would be very careful with the heat. There is a danger of melting the solder that holds the neck.

It may be the time to sacrifice the cap and cut it off. Just stay a way from the threads.

It would be a good idea to use some never-seize when you replace the cap.

Thanks, a great point about the heat. I think I will order a replacment cap, and as you suggest cut it off carefully.

Thanks!

Before cutting it off, I suggest trying to get some penetrating oil to the threads and then tapping on the outside of the threaded portion. Tap easy! A wood block or plastic might be good protection for the chrome. Often a little movement in the parts is enough to break the bond and get some lubricant between parts. A little lubricant goes a long way in getting parts apart.

I would not eliminate heat. As long as the liquid level is above the solder joints they will not be damaged from a little heat. If necessary drill a hole in the top of the cap to add water. Plug off the overflow line or fill by adding a hose to the bottom of the overflow tube and then extending above the top of the radiator.

I would only cut it off if all else fails.

You can apply some heat but be careful when you do so. A little bit of heat just might do the job for you so you might want to try that first. If that doesn't work then you can always cut the cap off as a last resort.

Good luck and let us know how you make out.

:) :grin:

I would try channel locks before try to cut the cap off, being carefull to not damage the tank. I've had problems with my 30 and did use antisize on it this spring.

I am leary of heating dis-simular metals or anything close to solder. I think it would be like a lid on some home canned green beans from a couple of years ago. First pour enough boiling water on the cap to get it too hot to handle, then while it is hot from the boiling water, start pecking away at the edge of the cap with a small brass, or plastic hammer go all the way around the cap above the threads, hammer down on the cap all the way around with many tiny pecks then go around the second time and the third time, try to move it first a bit toward tightning then looseing, patience,patience, patience. If this don't work squirt a goodly amount of PB Blaster around the edge of the cap and radiator neck, come back the next day and do the pecking all over and try to loosen it then.
You more than likely will save both the cap and the radiator neck. :vcca:

When and if you get it off, before you put it back on smear a little grease on threads and it wont happen again.

Thanks everyone, all great ideas. I am starting with the easiest first :)

I used some PB Blaster on it last night, and will go back to tapping it tonight with a hammer.

I'll let you know how I make out.

Got it!!!!!

A combination of patientce, PB Blaster, and a really big pair of channel locks did the trick. The cap is a bit chewed up, and will need to be replaced. I will use Anti Seize compound next time.

Does anyone know if the Viking mascot radiator caps are being reproduced. I have not had much luck finding one in good enough condition to put on he car yet.

Thanks to all for the help.

Use a hair dryer for heat and then cool quickly with some crushed ice-do it a couple of times before tapping as suggested above.Perhaps the dissimilar metals will expand and contract at a different rate and loosen the rust-be sure to wipe away any excess pb blaster before heating!! Good Luck!!

As to an original Viking mascot, I would try eBay, where you sometimes may get a bargain. Beware pictures can lie. Have you asked Gary Wallace http://www.20schevyparts.com/ or

The Filling Station http://www.fillingstation.com/ ? They have reproduced mascots in stock, but the prices have gone up recently.

I would think there are more vendors out there. Check the ads in G&D.

:vcca:

Thanks for the information. They both have reproduction Viking radaitor caps.

Has anyone used one of these? Are they worth the $600? I could see it being worth the price if the quality is there.

Here is one from eBay, but it is not perfect: ($ 203,-)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1929...QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW#ebayphotohosting

If you want it superb, buy a new one, but inform of the right year/model.

:vcca:

Also, if you want the Viking cap to screw on the radiator filler neck as it should purchase a reproduction.

:) :grin:

Hi;Be careful if you purchase a good original Viking cap as the metal its made from is usually dead.Over the years the metal structure becomes crystaline and won't allow an electrical current to pass properly through it,thereby making it impossibly to chrome plate.Hope this helps.