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Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 160
Shade Tree Mechanic
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OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 160 |
I suppose that its out here somewhere, but I can't pull up any instructions or thoughts about supplemental electric fuel pumps. I think I want one for my '32 Chevy. Filling Station has a universal 6 volt fuel pump. Does anyone know if it includes complete mounting instructions? I want to know where to mount it and exactly how to wire it into the electrical system. In the back of my mind I keep thinking that if the mechanical pump fails, it will probably be beause of the diaphram. If the diaphram fails, will the electric pump put all of my gasoline into the crankcase!!?? I know the experts have this all worked out--its really got me worried. Thanks.
Heart of Route 66 Region (Okla) VCCA Chevys: 1929 LQ 1.5T; 1930 LR 1.5T; 1932 BA 5 pass coupe; 1941 Chevy 1.5T US Army Fire Truck, my vintage '82 Chevy Motor Home
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Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 29,863
Tech Advisor ChatMaster - 25,000
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Tech Advisor ChatMaster - 25,000
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 29,863 |
I would call the Filling Station and talk to them directly about the electric pump that they sell since they will have all of the information. I would stay with the stock mechanical pump. I would get a couple diaphragms from the Filling Station to keep as spare since they are really easy to change out if needed.  :) :grin:
The Mangy Old Mutt
"If It's Not Junk.....It's Not Treasure!"
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Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 160
Shade Tree Mechanic
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OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 160 |
Thanks Skip. In my original post, I didn't mention the issue of vapor lock in parades, etc. Is this really a problem that an electric pump can solve? .....sam
Heart of Route 66 Region (Okla) VCCA Chevys: 1929 LQ 1.5T; 1930 LR 1.5T; 1932 BA 5 pass coupe; 1941 Chevy 1.5T US Army Fire Truck, my vintage '82 Chevy Motor Home
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Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 29,863
Tech Advisor ChatMaster - 25,000
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Tech Advisor ChatMaster - 25,000
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 29,863 |
It can. I installed an electric fuel pump on my '68 GMC about 20 years ago to cure a problem with vapor lock that I had from time to time. It didn't occur very often, maybe twice in the summertime when the temperature got over 90 degrees. In the last 20 years I have used the electric pump three times and that was it, and I have replaced it twice. In that period of time I have only had to replace the mechanical fuel pump once. Did I need to install an electric pump? No! Would I do it again? No. If your mechanical pump is doing the job then I would leave things alone.  :) :grin:
The Mangy Old Mutt
"If It's Not Junk.....It's Not Treasure!"
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Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 19,758 Likes: 64
ChatMaster - 15,000
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ChatMaster - 15,000
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 19,758 Likes: 64 |
Sam, I have auxilliary electric pumps on several of my old Chevys. The one on the '31 Firetruck is for parades. In 90+ weather it often would vapor lock due to low speed and high temps. Cathy got tired of lifting the hood and pouring water on the pump when it started to buck and snort.
Pump is installed between tank and fuel pump with toggle switch on plate installed under nut on steering column "u-bolt". Line from battery positive terminal to switch and then to + terminal on pump. Other terminal direct to ground. The pumps I have come with a band type bracket that bolts to frame. Relatively easy to do.
How Sweet the roar of a Chevy four!
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 428
Backyard Mechanic
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Backyard Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 428 |
Sam, there's another thread similar to this topic that I had jumped on before. I think it was indeed Chipper that mentioned this issue above about an additional electric fuel pump to overcome the vapor lock problem during, as he says, slow speeds in hot days.
I've had similar problems in the past with my '32 coupe, and I've come to believe that running the electric fuel pump helps overcome any vapor lock issue. Of course, I'm in no mood to experiment anymore to see if it will still run or stall with the electric pump off!
I did the wiring set up as Chipper describes it. The only small difference is that I spliced in the (+) lead off of one of the positive wires leading up to the dashboard that bypasses the electrolock. I like Chipper's suggestion on the on/off switch. I put mine underneath the lip of the dashboard because a) its closer to the battery, and less extra wiring to monkey with, and b) no one can see it, but you can easily feel for it to switch it on.
If it's helpful to share, I followed the advice from a professional car restoration book to mount the pump close to the gas tank in-line with the fuel line leading up to the mechanical pump. I discovered a set of pre-set open holes right inside the frame and directly underneath the passenger side fender. You may very well be able discover a similar hole or two. These made for a dandy mounting spot with a 2 inch bolt through the band bracket (as Chipper mentions), which in turn provided a snug place to wrap around and secure the negative terminal as well. The advantage I see in that kind of location is that it is easily accessible (you just jack up the car and pull off the tire rim to get at it) and its safely out of the way from any moisture or road debris.
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