VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - GENERAL Electrical - 6 volt Delco-Remy 271A - What is it

I have a small black three pronged electrical device that came with my 37 Chevy. It is a Delco-Remy 271A. Is this the "voltage regulator?"

Thanks,

Rich

The 1937 Chevrolet did not have a voltage regulator with the standard generator. It had a cut-out, a small black "box" that mounted on top of the generator. What number is stamped into the Delco-Remy tag riveted to the generator?
What are the demensions of the black box?

Gene,

I will check the number on the generator tonight. However, I do have a receipt from a previous owner that had the generator rebuilt, and it states that a voltage regulator must be used with the generator. I have seen a service bulletin for the 37's that stated you could swap your original generator for one that uses a voltage regulator.

I was looking through the Chev's of the 40's catalog last night and they have a picture of the horn relay that looks just like the Delco-Remy 271A that I have. But, I have been looking at the schematic for the car, and I can't see that a horn relay is in the circuit anywhere.

Thanks for your assistance,

Rich

The little black box Delco-Remy 271-A is a horn relay. It goes on a set of town and country horns. If you look closely, you should see the letters H B S above the three connections. Beamer

Beamer,

Thanks for the information. I do have the town and country horns, but as I mentioned, I don't see how the relay fits into the schematic.

As to my issue with the voltage regulator for the car, I did see that Chev's of the 40's does have a voltage regulator for the 38-39's cars, but it is a whopppppping $160, they also have one for 40-52's for only $60. Am I stuck with the high dollar unit or can the other voltage regulator be used?

Thanks,

Rich

The 1938-39 cars came with a voltage control. This was also used on some of the optional 1937 generator installations. (I have never seen a 1937 that had a factory installed voltage conrol).
The 1937 generator charging rate could be regulated by thr driver pulling out the light switch knob 1/2 notch (between off and parking light posistion).
The 1938-39 cars also used a3 brush generator simular to the standard 1937 generator but "wired" a little different. The voltage control "controls" the amps and the generator cut out.
In 1940 they went to the more modern 2 brush generator. This required a voltage regulator that had three functions. It contained the cut out, a voltage controll and amp control. This unit is about 1/3 larger than the 1938-39 voltage control.
The 1937 car generator did use the generator cut out relay that sat on top of the generator. This disconnects the generator from the battery when the generator out put drops below about 6 volts (at idle or engine not running) . If not disconnected the generator would drain the battery.
So count you brushes for starters........and work from there.

Gene,

Well, I have a three brush generator, but there is no ID plate on the side.

How can I tell if this puts me in the "upgraded" catagory and in need of the $160 voltage regulator? Right now, the only clue I have is the note on the reciept from the person that rebuilt this unit almost 30 years ago.

Rich

Rich, I will send you some information....are the two screw holes on top of the generator case. These would be for the original cut out. If you need a new $160 voltage controll I have a new one for 1/2 that price.

The town and country horns will not show up in a wiring diagram for the car. They are an accessory. They have their own schematic. They are really pretty simple to add to the car if their wiring is intact. If it isn't, you will probably have to find someone who will send you a copy of a wiring diagram and you will have to build a new harness for the horns or pay an exhorbitant price for a new one. The wiring diagram for the horns will show how to connect it to the car wiring system and a horn button. There is a separate switch that lets you control the horns using the T & C or original horns but those are extremely rare and hard to come by. As an alternative, many folks just buy a period button that clamps around the steering column and use that for the T & C horns. As for a voltage regulator, the 1938 originally came with a 4-connector voltage regulator. However, those are extremely hard to come by. Most '38's I have seen have been converted to a 3-wire voltage regulator. That is a simple conversion but again, you would have to get the wiring diagram from someone showing it. Three-wire connection voltage regulators come up on e-bay quite often. Just search under e-bay motors parts for 1938 Chevrolet. I wouldn't pay an exhorbitant price for a new one unless you are restoring a show car. Many of us in the hobby have an extra one they would part with, just advertise for it. Beamer

The horn relay mounts on the horn cross bar between the horns. You will find two screw holes there that match the holes on the relay. The wire attachment is as follows.
Terminal stamped H - wires from horns attach here. (with relay prperly mounted this would be the terminal to the right).
Terminal stamped G (in center) Wire from this terminal goes to the power sorce which is the battery cable terminal on the starter switch (use 12 Ga. wire).

The S terminal wire connects to the original horn wire coming out of the steering columd (bayonet connector)

The original factory horn mounted to the intake manifold and was usually discarded when the accessory dual horns were installed. Also the two wires in the harness that connected to the horn should have the terminals taped up.

The 1937-38 cars did not have the "Town & Country" horn feature. This was part of the dual horn package for 1939. This included a Town & Country switch that mounted on top of the dash. The switch enabled the use of the dual horns for the country and the single original horn (which was not removed in 1939) for the city. This was the only year this was available*

*In 1940-41 the accessory T&C switch only cut out one of the then factory installed dual horns.

Thanks for this information. My cross bar does not have the two holes you mention. I can't really see where I could mount the relay and then connect the wires from the horn. The horn wires are just too short. But, I am sure that I can make this work.

Rich