VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1937-1945 I.D. Plate

I am trying to find out where I can get a new I.D. Tag for my 1938 Chevy 2 Door Sedan?
Can I get a new one through the DMV?
I have a clear Ohio Certificate Of Title and the Body Spec. tag
but,the I.D. Tag is damaged beyond reading.

There's a fellow selling data plates on eBay. They are a fairly close copy of original but not made out of the original material. You'll have to stamp your serial number on the plate once you get it. I bought one for my 38 coupe because the PO painted over the original & I can't get the paint off without also removing the factory paint.

Which of these are you looking for?



Brian

Is this what you are looking for?

http://www.chevsofthe40s.com/browse.lasso?&dept=Car&cat=550C&skip=4

I have one. I am in the process if getting clear title to my '37 Master Deluxe (previous owner never did title the car.) In Colorado, I had to get a Certified VIN inspection. While there is a VIN number on the right side cowel under the hood, the car was originally titled with the engine number. I plan to replace the engine in the future, and I asked the guys at the cop shop if it would be appropriate to place my new ID plate on the car with the original engine number. They said that it would be fine, but that I should also keep written records about the engine swap.

Rich

I am looking to get a new vin# plate for my 1937 Chevy 2Door Sedan.

My car is a 1937 Chevy 2 door Sedan the 4 door I.D. Tag will not work on mine but maybe you can help me.
Does your I.D Number have two digits than some letters than your number? My VIN nuber has only 6 numbers.

Larry,
There are two number plates on the right side of the cowl under the hood on a 1937 car.
One plate has the serial number. This plate would be the same for a 2 or 4 door.
The other plate is the body information plate used for ordering body parts. It was attached by the Fisher Body plant. It will have first on top the style number.
Example would be 371011 (that would be a Master DeLuxe 2 door)
The next number would be the body number (example N 2345) that would be body made at the Norwood, Ohio Fisher Body plant and number is a production sequence number of the body and from that plant.
Next would be the trim number ( like 67, would refer to the upholstery)
Next would be the paint number (like 188)

The other plate will have the serial number STAMPED INTO IT.
The serial number would begin with either one or two numbers. They refer to the plant where the car was assembled. For Norwood, Ohio it would be 9 and for Janesville, Wisconsin would be 21 for example.
The next two letters would either be GA or GB for a 1937. GA is Master DeLuxe and GB is Master (Master has leaf springs in the front)
Next will be a number between 1 and 12. IT indicates the month the car was assembled. THEN comes the serial number. Would be between 1001 and 60674 for 1937.
Those numbers make up the serial number, they didn't have what we call a VIN number back then. Prior to 1955 most states used the engine number for registration.

Well, I don't know how is messed up the link, but this is what it should be.

http://www.chevsofthe40s.com/browse.lasso?&dept=Car&cat=550C&skip=10

Rich