Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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#111592 11/30/07 08:48 PM
Joined: Aug 2005
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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I have a 235 in this 50 2 dr that I just bought, and the water pump was too close to the radiator, so I found a short shaft one, to replace the long shaft one I had on the engine. Well, I took the long shaft one off the engine, and low and behold, the rotor was inside the block, and all of the bolt holes were different than any of the pumps that I have. Can anyone tell me what kind of block I have, this is the first one I have seen where the rotor isn't in the pump itself. If I can figure out how to post pictures I will download some to show what I have. Is there a difference in the truck engines? I have considered that someone used a truck engine. The block doesn't have any side mounts either, only front.


John
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The 1955-62 235-261 engines have the rotor inside the block. When the water pump is removed you can see the outside of the front cylinder barrel. This would be for cars and trucks (except 1st design 1955)
When they got punched in the front end the water pump shaft would poke a hole in the cylinder wall. mad


Gene Schneider
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I agree with Gene, you have a 55 to 62 engine block, and I would say out of a truck because of the front mounts. It may have solid lifters, and a metal cam timing gear. That is typical on those engines that the pump pully sets the fan out further from the engine. There is short shaft water pumps being sold to fit the 55-62 engines to a 49-54 car. An adapter plate is also sold (they often show up on eBay), that mounts the 49-54 waterpump on the 55-62 engine, the adapter requires that some new holes be drilled and tapped into the engine block.

Block casting and stamped engine number could narrow it down to the year the engine was cast.


Life's a long winding trail, love Jesus and ride a good horse!
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Backyard Mechanic
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I would suggest using the adaptor plate and then use the 216 water pump. This puts the fan back in to the original position both in the verticle and horizontal position. It is not hard to install and is for the most part invisable after painting. Use the 216 original pulley and balancer to keep original belt width. I did this on my '46 and it made for a real nice install. And yes I do have the original 216 just in case I want to put her back to original. The plate i believe was 40.00 and is usually on Ebay all the time from a guy out west.


'46 Fleetline Aerosedan
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if you do use the adapter plate, I think a 216 thru a 54 water pump will work, the belt pully is different for the 49-52 than the 53-54 and should be included with a new waterpump. Be sure to check your belt and see if it is a wide (49-52) or the narrow belt which came out in 1953 and was used till 235s were phased out. If the engine has been changed to a later model it may have also had the newer narrow belt.


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John - I sent you an email introducing you to the "guy out west"
that manufactures these adaptors. He put one on my '50.

Roger

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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Thanks everyone,I do indeed have the later engine. I talked to the person who makes the adapter plate, seems like the best way to go. I just don't like having to drill and tap the block.Now if I can just get some of the other projects done on this car, one step forward and two back. John


John
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John; The drilling and taping is not as bad as it sounds. You use the plate as a guide to drill your holes. I would suggest you get a centering punch though to mark your holes. Harbour Freight has cheap ones good enough for that job for sure. After it is installed and the pump is on then paint the engine. It's really hard to see it and does not look out of place. Good luck on your project.


'46 Fleetline Aerosedan
Most southernest vintage Chevy owner in Canada.
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Thanks, I think this is the way I'm going. Need kto get one on order. John


John

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