VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - GENERAL Mechanical - Engine, Trans, etc 283 rebuild

so we have started the process of restoration on our 58 yeoman and we are focusing on the drivtrain first. I have been to a couple of shops here in town whotell me that the stock 283 can never be built into a motor that allows the car to cruise at 70 or so mph. Are they just trying to sell me a new big block or is there a way I can rebuild this motor to have more hp. I am concerned about removing a number mach motor form the car and I have nowhere to store it if I did. Any input would be appriciated.

I would not worry about a good condition stock 283 having horsepower problems of cruising the legal speed limits, anywhere in the USA You may want to change the rear end ratio to one more suited for Interstate use. What transmission and rear end ratio do you have now?
The shop probably want to install a less rare, less expensive, lower compression ratio and maybe less HP 350 SBC engine.

they were showing me new EFI GM motors. The car is running a 3 on the tree, I guess I could look at a 4 on the floor or 4 spd auto w/ overdrive. I would prefer not to lose the mid seat to a shifter. I have no idea what the ratio is in the rear end it is original however. Any suggestions for a setup? I am getting no help localy. Should I also rebuild the motor with some higher performance parts?

The 283 will withstand running at a high RPM better than any other engine due to its short stroke. Certainly would do so better than any big block. I would find a different rebuilder.
I have driven cars with stock 283's at 80 MPH for long distances with no problems.
Your 1958 wagon with a stick will have a 3.55 rear axle ratio. With original sized tires the engine will be turning over at about 3200 RPM at 70 MPH which is well into its comfort zone.
A 3.08 ratio, which was common in many 1960-64 Chevrolets with Power Glide would slow down the engine but would also would reduce the acceleration of the heavy wagon.

agree with chevgene. we drove our 57 vette 283ci/283hp with 370 rear from maryland to Boston this summer. ran 70 to 90 and the ole 283 loved it. got 18 mpg to boot. the engine is a bit tweaked internally(blueprinted it 20 years and 15K miles ago). seek another machine shop. mike

I totally agree with Gene and Mike. You are dealing with idiots so find another machine shop! Your Yeoman, totally stock and with a 283, can cruise all day at 70 MPH! Don't change a thing!

:) :grin:

got a second opinion from a buddy here in town who is a merc marine tech and an old chevy guy. Looks like my rear end is about a 4:1 (just the old visual test of yoke turns to one turn of the back wheels). He agrees the motor is in no need of change (perhaps a manifold and carb) but his thought was the 3 on the tree was not letting the engine do its thing and suggested doing a 700r4 to get a 4th gear so the engine go do better than 60mph. WDYT?

The wagon will do just fine with stock drivetrain particularily if freshened. If you plan to pull a heavy trailer it might be a little short on torque and HP but otherwise OK. It is all too common for people to feel that modern disc brakes, radial tires, fuel injected engines, overdrive automatic transmissions and low ratio rear-ends are the only way to go. None of that is true. If you want a modern riding vehicle with all the modern conveniences go to your local Chevrolet showroom. If you want to enjoy and preserve a little automotive history then do just that. Just my personal opinion. It is worth what you paid for it particularily for the "modern mechanics".

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If you want a modern riding vehicle with all the modern conveniences go to your local Chevrolet showroom.

My position 1000%. Why try to make something which isn't. When I go to swap meets it is amazing the % of vehicles for sale that someone started as a dream car and got in over their head or ran out of funds.

I agree, but I am sure this car was able to do over 60 mph new, will the "freshning up" help that or is there something I am missing?

find another engine builder over the age of 40. the 283 at factory specs will let you go as fast as is legal.

with a 27 inch tire, 4.11 gears will turn the motor 3600 rpms at 70. 3.08s will turn it 2700. the 3.08s would be better for cruising the Turner Turnpike but moving that heavy 58 up and down Memorial would be a little sluggish. 3600 is starting to leave the comfort zone for long trips.

If you get the rear axle code number the ratio can be determined. Its stamped into the center housing, right front between the carrier to axle housing bolts which would be between in the 8:00 o'clock/10.00 o'clock position. When new only the overdrive cars had the 4.11 ratio.
Yes, if the engine is tired a freshening up would help. If its never be rebuilt I am sure the compression and oil rings are worn and have lost their tension.

well seems you know t town pretty well any sugestions on a motor builder?

sorry, been away for too many years. I'd try inquiring at several parts houses

Yep, find another machine shop,



And most of them mess up a reasonably nice car, You can put any engine, and any transmission in any car with enough butchering and dobbing with an arc or mig welder. Then smear all of it over with a gallon of Bondo and spray on some expensive metal flake, that don't mean it is going to perform like expected or look right! I do like the 327 engines and Ht 400 hydramatics, so I bought a 1968 Impala with the original ones installed, I also like A/C ocassionally, so I bought the '68 with a cool factory air conditioner.

P.S. the new 327 in the 05 Tahoe is doing ok so far, 46,000 miles, many pulling the old cars. Only gripe is the sorry Firestone tires it came with, bumpety, bump, bumpety, bump.

The freshing-up should restore the 70+ mph cruising speed. If you don't put too much "speed" equipment on the rebuild then it will burn regular grade fuel and get reasonable fuel economy.

2 most common mistakes; too much cam, too much carburetor.

I agree keep it stock. I would also have it balanced, it improves engine life and runs a lot smother at idle. if I wanted to add a bit more I would install a stock 283 4 barrel carb. I also would stay away from chrome rings as they take forever to seat in and sometimes not even then. I have torn motors down with 30/50k miles on them in the past and all the chrome rings had not seated.

Macsdaddy,

My experience indicates a 283 will provide all the 'poop' you need to get - and keep - you moving, even in the slightly heavier wagon. I understand the guys telling you to go 350 EFI and 700R4. Besides the fact that's a nice combo, that's all they know. I just don't see any reason to change out an original numbers matching car.

Big Block?? NO WAY. Unless you're going into the stump pulling business with the Yeoman. In my mind, this (click here) is exactly what you DON'T want. What's the sense in that?!? If you do something like that get ready for all kinds of hassles. Additional dollars for cooling, gas and more.

283 powered cars I've owned (Power Pack 57 Nomad, 270 horse 59 Corvette, 2 barrel 58 Del Ray, 55 2 dr post with a replacement 283 and so on) never had ANY problem getting up to highway speed and more. 70mph?? NO problem. Plenty left after that. Altho, in my mind, not much sense in using it with drum brakes.

I would suggest a time period correct 4 barrel carburetor, rather than the 2 barrel I seem to recall when you and I were talking about your long-roof a few months back. Probably best to be in the 3.55 to 3.70 area for the rear end ratio. In my mind, lower could be too sluggish. Higher just isn't necessary. And no benefit when you want to cruise at 70-75mph. Revs too high, efficiency is lost.

Anyway, I "vote" for keeping the 283. Find somebody in your area who feels the same. Or at least understands what you want. Probably somebody who's 45-50 years of age. The 20-30 somethings usually just don't get it when it comes to things like this.

Have fun....

Bill.

ok, so if I do a 4 barrel do I need to change my manifold too? I was also considering a disk brake change over but I hadnt complety convinced myself yet. I am waiting on a call back from a very well respected local motor builder. I am thinking now however that I will do the carb get my fuel tank cooked and all my fuel delivery replaced and cleaned up and see where that leaves me. The engine idles right on does not burn or leak oil so I am wondering if its jst starving for fuel and air. Perhaps some new plugs would do me good also.

Front discs are a nice "safety" upgrade. The faster you go, the longer it takes to stop. So...

Switching to a four barrel requires a 4 barrel intake manifold.

Haven't you been driving the car?? Not sure why you'd clean out the gas tank and lines, etc.

It seems like a good tune-up would be a good place to start. (Sort of along the idea of the K.I.S.S. idea.) You might be surprised with the results. And wind up just forgetting about all the 4 barrel carb, engine rebuild etc. talk....

well the tank thing is due to a couple of factors. Along the way some one put in a fuel filter before the pump and I recently changed it after it completly clogged and trust me what was in there wasnt pretty. The gas guage is a quarter tank off so I have to drop the tank to get at the sending unit and what the hay its winter time (almost) i'd rather do it now than in the spring. But yess its drivven almost every day.

I agree with all comments above.
Also the 3 and 4 speed gearboxes both have the same top gear ratio (direct couple) so you wont gain by that change.
Tony

A bit of an update, rebuilt the carb and man what a difference, the pickup is hugely improved and I have not had it out on the highway yet but I excpect there will be some change too. As well the rebuild corrected the fuel odor i was having that I mentiond during the summer. Now if I could just figure out what combination the controls need to be in to get heat in the car.