VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1929-1932 29 ELectrical Current Leak

I am in final assembly with my 29, and seem to have an electrical problem. I installed a new (old) wiring harness. I have checked several times to be sure everything is where it should be, but I have a power drain. I noticed current was flowing when I attached the positive cable from the starter to the battery (a small spark). I verified the current flow by leaving the battery attached for a week and found that the charge level was down. Unless some current flow is normal, I must have a wire (or more) in the wrong place, maybe a wire on the AMP meter? Anyone have any ideas?

This is what I would do.
1. disconnect battery neg. cable
2. connect a test light to battery cable and batt. post, in your case it should light or use a volt meter.
3. make sure all switches are off.
4. pull fuse one at a time and/or disconnect one wire at a time till light goes out.
this is general trouble shooting, as I don't know this car. Also if you have a electrical diagram use it to verify that all is connected correctly. Good luck.

There is only one fuse and that is on the side of the light switch. When doing the above test as eldeeb describes that would be the one fuse to look for. Also, make sure that your electrolock is off as well. If you have it on and the points in the distributor are closed you will have a constant current draw.

:) :grin:

Thanks team.

Did you find the current draw?

I did not find the leak, but I did dtermine that the eight month old battery was had gone bad. I am gussing the spark I saw and suspected to be a leak was just current normally energizing the dash. By the way a commerical battery from NAPA does not have a year guarantee. Those batteriers are immediately on a sum of the months rebate.

Tractor Supply 6 volt batteries have a 12 months FREE replacement
warrenty. I wonder how long a Optima battery actualy will last on an antique car that isn't driven on a regular basis? A Tractor Supply 6 volt battery cost me about $30 and usually last 2 1/2 or 3 years.

HI, after installing your new battery let us know about the draw. I can't think of any source that would pull current if every load is off. I just put a new harness in my '30 Coupe but I didn't check for a draw. I may have the same condition.Thanks,Stan

battery with internal short possible, also electric clocks ect.

It is possible for the dielectric on the ammetter to have a small split and a drop of moisture can cause a fair draw(certainly enough to notice).
At least that is what happened with my Pontiac.

WIth a new battery, I still have a small drain. There must be a line contacting somewhere, but I have not been able to trace it yet.

I would go back to the disconnect one wire at a time method.I believe all the switches are "live" unless the battery is disconnected.(headlamp-brakelight and ignition) You could also disconnect all and then hook them up one at a time.If you have a friend who is handy with a multi-meter its the best way to go as it will measure the draw in milli-amps.

It is in the Electrolock. I have insulated the key portion, and I am now working on the distributor section. Along with whomever decided to use pot metal and square nuts, I am growing to dislike the person that decided the resister needed to go into the Electrolock shaft (thought the end fitting).

That is not a resister. It is a condenser.

:) :grin:

If the electrolock is the source of the electrical leak then it has to be in the lock end. The switch part of the electrolock when in the off position will have a gap between positive contact on side and center wire to the distributor.

If the electrolock/distributor assembly works properly (engine runs) then the condensor will be properly installed and not grounded to the outside coil-wire housing.

The leak was inside the Electrolock, distributor end. I rebuilt the end, as recommended in prior posts here, and bingo. No more leak. By the way, why does the Search feature allow only one one search then say wait a while. Very frustration

Glad you found the problem, FYI here is another possiblilty for current draw. A short in the generator cut out, caused by the contact terminals welding together.

Makes the generator want to spin like a starter motor, but with the fan belt on it cannot, so causes a current drain......

Had that happen once....and wouldn't you know it was the last thing I looked at.