VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - GENERAL Radios, Tools, Accessories Clock Question

I recently bought a restored clock for my 38 coupe. The fellow I bought it from advised these clocks were designed for intermittent use and shouldn't be allowed to run all the time. He advised the clock will overheat if allowed to run continuously. He recommended a switch in the circuit. Other than running the battery down if not switched (I was going to connect it to the switched side of the ignition switch anyway), will a clock overheat or in some other way come to peril if not switched? How were the clocks connected originally? Thanks.

The guy is blowing smoke-The clock does not have an eletric motor as a house clock does.Rather its eletrically wound at frequent intervals thru the armature so the motor dose not run constantly..The eletric current that it uses is negligible, takes only a fraction of a second, and there is no drain on the battery for this operation.This is a condensed explination for the 1939 literature.How could the motor over heat in a fraction of a second?
They were not dependable when new and am sure a "rebuilt" unit would be no better.Hes just warning you to not expect too much.
The clocks were originally connected to run constantly...the slaming of the glove compartment door would be one of the harmful things for the clock.

Chev Nut is correct......the dude is full of it! Automobile electric clocks were made to run continuously and the battery current they draw is really not noticeable except over a very, very long period of time, and only then, if the car is sitting and not being used. The clocks were wired direct. For example, the clock in our 1969 Impala has been running for many, many years and it is still going! And, so far, after all of these years the clock hasn't drained the battery yet!

:grin:

Thanks guys. I'll connect it to the hot side of the switch then. I assume it needs a fuse in the circuit. Any feedback as to the amp size I should put in it?

The 1939 instructios (same clock) say to run the white ground wire to a screw in the instrument panel, black wire to the tail light terminal on the light switch (for clock light), and red wire to the discharge side of the ammeter.I would assume the clock would be "protected" by the fuse on the back of the ammeter unless a smaller fuse would have been built into the clock red wire.If you feel its necessary to fuse A very low amp fuse would be all thats needed...perhaps 1 or 2 amps.

Many years ago, I bought a NOS clock for my '55 at the Reno Swap Meet and it still works. It works now because I disconnect the ground cable each time after I drive the car. A battery disconnect device would be a better solution, but I never got around to buying one..

PDXjoe,

Why don't you tell Santa about that. You've been a "good boy" haven't you???

Bill.

PDXjoe......Saw your reply about disconnecting the ground each time you drive your car.I did this on my '41 for years. I ordered one of the battery disconnect switches from the Northern Illinois Region out of the G&D. Best thing since sliced bread. It works and so easy to use. Try it you will like it. JIM

Just noticed your post. I purchased a '41 Chevy sedan recently and was told that the clock did not work. Later I read something that indicated that the clock in the "41 was never electrical; you just wound it up and it ran for 14 hours or so. This works on my car. Your post seems to indicate that the clocks were in fact electrical? Any info would be appreciated. Thanks.

Hi Gary,

The car came originally with a plate in the spot for the clock. As an accessory, you could purchase a wind-up 30-hour clock. For $8.85 you could upgrade to a fully electric clock.

If you have an electrical clock in your current vehicle and have long periods where the car is not used, you should disconnect either the clock or battery cable. As the clock is wired directly into the battery it will slowly drain your battery. Just before it totally drains the battery the points on the clock will stick and damage the clock and finish the drainage from the battery.

Suggest you follow the Genuine 1941 Accessories series in the G&D for more information on accessories.

Thanks again for the info. This does it. I'm going to join the VCCA. I would have done it sooner, however there are no clubs to my knowledge close to Chattanooga, TN.

I guess once I join, I can get access to old issues of the G & D?

Hi Gary,

Glad you finally saw the light.

I think you will be happy with your decision.

Yes, various past issues of the G&D are available.

:) :grin:

If the points stick together ,as antique mechanic states, the electromagnet coil which winds the clock will overheat if the fuse does not blow .

I made the mistake of running a clock on the bench after cleaning , and the points stuck , overheating the coil.(forgot to fuse it)

The 1938 - 39 "geo borg clocks" i have are marked on the back fuse rating, One is 2 amp fuse, one is 3 amps.
the 1937 "New haven" electric clock i have has no fuse rating stated.

Just to add my 2 cents: had a rebuilt glovebox accessory clock in my 36 for about 10 years now, and use a battery disconnect switch while the car is just sitting. Sitll works fine, but gentle with the glovebox closing!

What is odd, though, is that each time of starting the clock up after sitting I have to adjust the little switch that controls the clock speed--it gets either slow or fast, no apparent way to predict. It will be accurate when the car was shut off, but somehow after sitting it doesn't run at the same speed. Spring tension changes?

This is by no means normal, but... My 47 did not have a clock when I purchased it. So I got one off of Ebay for $9. The guts were rusted solid. I pulled it all apart, got a $4 Battery powered clock from the dollar store. Slapped the two together, cut a hole in the back of the chevy clocks housing. Stuck a new face sticker on it from Jim Carters. Looks perfect. Still going on the same battery for over a year. Doesn't lose time. Doesn't drain the battery. Total Cost= about $20. Neat...