Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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Joined: Jul 2007
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I have an electrical problem that makes no sense. I have the coil wire from the ignition switch connected to the positive side of the coil. I have the condenser wire and the distributor wire connected to the negative side of the coil. When I turn the ignition switch on both sides of the coil register hot when I test them with my light. Any ideas?????

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Yep, the points are closed at this time. Roll the engine a tad (about 20 degrees) and you will not have a ground on the coil and it will appear as an open circuit.

Agrin devil


RAY


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1925 Superior K Roadster
1928 Convertible, Sport, Cabriolet
1933 Eagle, Coupe
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1950 Styleline Deluxe 4-Door Sedan
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CRH Offline OP
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Even when I do this I have no fire to the plugs. Have turn the engine over with the crank, taken out the first plug and grounded it to the block, turned the switch on and still no spark.....

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Sorry, I did not catch the information about any spark at the plug.

Okay, take the wire that goes from the center of the coil to the distributor loose at the distributor. Place this wire about 1/8 inch from any metal place on the engine. Now attempt to start the engine or use a jumper from the - side of the coil to a bare spot on the engine. Touch the wire quickly and observe the wire from the center of the coil. Did you get a spark? If you did, the problem is in the distributor, if you didn't, you may have a bad coil.

Agrin devil



RAY


Chevradioman
http://www.vccacolumbiariverregion.org/



1925 Superior K Roadster
1928 Convertible, Sport, Cabriolet
1933 Eagle, Coupe
1941 Master Deluxe 5-Passenger Coupe
1950 Styleline Deluxe 4-Door Sedan
1950 Styleline Deluxe Convertible
2002 Pontiac, Montana, Passenger Van
2014 Impala, 4-Door Sedan, White Diamond, LTZ
2017 Silverado, Double Cab, Z71, 4X4, White, Standard Bed, LTZ

If you need a shoulder to cry on, pull off to the side of the road.
Death is the number 1 killer in the world.


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AntiqueMechanic,
I disagree with your comment. CRH said that both sides of the coil regester hot (test light on) with the ignition switch on, thus the breaker points are 'open'. With the points 'closed', the negative side of the coil will not light test light - assuming other lead of test light grounded (if indeed the points are making contact).

I usually remove distributer cap and watch points contacts to see if they are opening and closing, if so, stop turning engine when the points are closed. Take the center coil wire off of the distributer cap and hold end 1'8" from block and then snap the points open / closed with fingers, should result in a spark each time. If no spark, short across points (ground side connected to negative side of coil) with screwdriver. If no spark, coil problem. If spark, points need to be cleaned / replaced.

Last edited by fuzzyswede; 09/11/07 08:40 PM.

1934 Chevy 1 1/2 ton Farm Truck
1936 Chevy Master DeLuxe Series FA 5-window coupe
1961 Chevy Series 10 Fleetside
1963 Dodge M37
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CRH Offline OP
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Got spark from coil to distributor. Have spark at the points. Have no spark to the plugs. New wiring and plugs. All wires are tight. Any ideas??

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Bad rotar or cap, shorted points arm, also do you have a spark that will jump from the from high tension wire to ground when cranking with the switch on? if not it could be the coil high tension wire or rhe secondary winding of the coil.
Or you don't have the correct rotor for your cap (tall cap short rotar)

By the way what year and model car or truck are you working on?


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1926 Superior....New rotar. Low distributor cap and points spark when turned over. Good spark from new coil to distributor.
New condenser. Points spark when turned over. The only thing I haven't replaced is the distributor cap. What do you think?

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CRH, you are having the same trouble as rbl2, unless I am mixed up with the threads.

I am assuming that you now have spark from the coil wire going to the distributer while cranking engine (indicates coil, condenser, points are in good working condition along with distributer shaft turning) but no spark to any of the spark plugs.

Problem has to be in distributer cover or roter. Clean distributer cover center contact with emery paper (I believe is carbon graphite and can become covered with a hard non-conducting oxide of some sort). Also clean the rotor center contact (maybe bend up slightly for better contact) and the tip of the rotor and inside the distributer cap contacts with emery paper.

I ran into this problem back in the 70's. Went on a trip, stopped car for an hour, ready to go, would not start. After a quite a bit of trouble shooting, found out that there was not continuity between distributer cap center contact and coil wire, cleaned carbon contact button and problem solved.


1934 Chevy 1 1/2 ton Farm Truck
1936 Chevy Master DeLuxe Series FA 5-window coupe
1961 Chevy Series 10 Fleetside
1963 Dodge M37
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You don't have the threads mixed up. We are having basically the same problem. Perhaps this tropical depression has brought gremlins with it. mad


Bill
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Will try...This tropical depression was once a hurricane but missed us in east Texas. Grmelins

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She runs.....would you believe it was the contact on the top of the rotar not making contact with the hot wire from the coil? Bent the contact up a little with a pair of needle nose, put the cap on, fired up on the first hit....Thanks to everyone for all the advice.


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