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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 127
Shade Tree Mechanic
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OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 127 |
Hi all
I am contemplating replacing the rear chassis cross member on my 1926 chev. I have read in a local restoration guide that it is acceptable to replace rivets with high tensile bolts however i was under the impression that rivets provide a far better join. What do people recommend, obviously bolts would be far easier but i dont want to compromise strength.
Ken
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 10,379 Likes: 1
Technical Advisor ChatMaster - 10,000
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Technical Advisor ChatMaster - 10,000
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 10,379 Likes: 1 |
Without the proper equipment, your option is to use bolts. Use grade 8 bolts and lock washers. Will be stronger than loose rivets.  
RAY Chevradioman http://www.vccacolumbiariverregion.org/1925 Superior K Roadster 1928 Convertible, Sport, Cabriolet 1933 Eagle, Coupe 1941 Master Deluxe 5-Passenger Coupe 1950 Styleline Deluxe 4-Door Sedan 1950 Styleline Deluxe Convertible 2002 Pontiac, Montana, Passenger Van 2014 Impala, 4-Door Sedan, White Diamond, LTZ 2017 Silverado, Double Cab, Z71, 4X4, White, Standard Bed, LTZ If you need a shoulder to cry on, pull off to the side of the road. Death is the number 1 killer in the world.
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 70
Shade Tree Mechanic
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Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 70 |
I replaced the rear cross member/gas tank cover on my 27 a couple of years ago.. Using grade 8 bolts I ground the head to
simulate rivets and they look good.. The car has been trailered and several long tours and have had no movement or loosening of bolts.. Works fine
roy
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Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 19,758 Likes: 64
ChatMaster - 15,000
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ChatMaster - 15,000
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 19,758 Likes: 64 |
It takes a bucking tool, pneumatic hammer with proper sized rivet tool and heat source. The rivet shanks need to be expanded to fit tight into the holes or else will be loose or loosen. Each rivet is heated put into the hole, the parts held tightly together, rivet head held firmly in place and then the other end hammered into place. Not too tough if you know what you are doing and have a buddy to assist.
How Sweet the roar of a Chevy four!
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Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 988
ChatMaster - 750
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ChatMaster - 750
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 988 |
You can eliminate the "buddy" if you clamp the bucking tool to the frame with some big c-clamps. Make your own bucking tool from a heavy steel bar by making a depression the size and shape of the existing rivet head (a ball shaped carbide bit in a die grinder will work).
34 & 35 trucks are the greatest. 36 high cabs are OK too.
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Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 3,163
ChatMaster - 3,000
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ChatMaster - 3,000
Joined: Nov 2002
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I'm in similar position & I'm looking at button head allen screws & then fill in the allen part before painting. They too come in grade 8.......Joe
See America's First...Chevrolet
1931 Sedan Delivery 31570
1933 Standard Sports Coupe 33628.
1934 Master Sedan Delivery Canadian 177/34570
1968 Z/28 Camaro
1969 SS 396 Camaro
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 2,142 Likes: 3
ChatMaster - 2,000
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ChatMaster - 2,000
Joined: Dec 2001
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Try this guy, all he does is supply rivets for the old car hobby, his specialty is Model A's but he has a lot of sizes and all of the tools. http://www.bigflatsrivet.com/John
John
1954 Belair Sport Coupe
1960 2 door Impala Hardtop 348/340HP 4spd
1962 2 door Impala Hardtop 409/409 4spd
1962 2 Door Biscayne Sedan 327/250 Auto
1977 Monza Mirage 305 4 Speed
1988 Celebrity Wagon
2018 GMC Sierra 2500 HD Diesel
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 127
Shade Tree Mechanic
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OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 127 |
Thanks for the assistance on this one chaps. It seems there is a web site for every need these days. I will go with high tensile bolts for now as my blacksmith skills are somewhat limited.
Ken
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Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 988
ChatMaster - 750
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ChatMaster - 750
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 988 |
McMaster-Carr also carries mild steel rivets also Fastenal stores located around the country also carry steel rivets.
34 & 35 trucks are the greatest. 36 high cabs are OK too.
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