VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1933-1936 thinking of buying a 35 master,few questions

I'm new to the vintage chevy world having owned several model a fords. have a chance at a solid 35 master that needs paint but solid body and rebuilt mechanicals. my questions are will this car handle better than my A's{better power for climbing hills,handling, stopping, reliable? want a car that is easier to drive on longer trips. and how easy are repro/service parts to come by? anything thats tough to find? thanks in advance, Scott

Scott,
The car will be vastly better than a Model A - if the front end is tight (including steering) and the enclosed knee-action units in good condition. If they are worn out the car will be bouncy in front or overly stiff (units frozen)....they can be rebuilt at over $400.00 each....but they are what makes the car. There were a limited number of Masters sold with leaf springs and a solid axle in the front. They have a typical mid '30's choppy ride but still superior to a 1929 Chevrolet or Ford. The 1935 was the last year of mechanical brakes. There again if in new condition they work well and require no periodic service. The car will have ample power and cruise comfortably at 55 MPH. Mechanical parts are easy to come by, other parts are a little more difficult to find. Note that even though it has a steel roof the body is still reienforced with wood. This is fine if the wood isn't rotted. First bad sign is if the doors drop down when opened.


I drove my '34 on long trips for many years in complete comfort....and never had a problem on the road.

Can you tell us more about the car?

1935 was a huge change for chevrolet cars from bumper to bumper most a one year use . the look was carried over to 36 but most parts will not inter change a few will the car is quiet runs easy at 55 the ride is very good except does not like to corner very classy if you get the right body style stops good . mine has the 3;73 rear end ratio which is a plus as the engine has plenty of power and it is a coupe

Are there any details that are problem areas on these models I should watch for when looking this car over? I haven't gone to where the car is stored yet just been discussing it with the owner {a honest guy who shoots straight and who's idea of "good condition" matches my thinking}.I'm just starting to do some research on them now while I have the time{recovering from hernia op!} and before I actually go crawling over and under it, so thanks again in advance for any and all help!

As Gene says the knee-action shocks give a really nice ride if they are in good working order. Check for bad leaks and the fluid level in the units.
The frame may look rough but these cars leaked so much oil that they are usually encrusted with a layer of oily sand that acts like undercoating. Bring a scraper and see what it look like under the caked on junk.
'35 was the last year of the small water jacket in the block, so check for overheating issues. A little crud in the block or head can restrict the flow of coolant and can lead to warped or cracked heads. While running, the engine should run at an indicated 170 to 190 (I don't think the gages are very accurate) and might go up a little while stopped at a red light. The temp should drop immediately once you get going again.
Door sag is an issue with the '35s as they are framed in wood. Two doors are especially suspect as the doors are longer and heavier. If bad, the wood may need to be braced or replaced.
These torque tube cars often have a little clutch chatter when starting from a stop. If severe, you may need clutch/pressure plate/U-joint repairs. When I first got mine the chatter was so bad the bellhousing and transmission cases were cracked. I've also replaced the drive shaft bushings and that's cured most of the chatter.
Drum brakes can warp a little and being stamped steel they get ground, not turned on a lathe. It's not something you take to your local cheapo auto parts guy to have done.

Let us know how you make out. There's lots of help available her at vcca.org and you can also find local VCCA members willing to get their hands dirty with you.

Coach

Shucks, it ain't that old. That's the same year I was manufactured [born].