VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1937-1945 New gaskets 1938 drivetrain

Hi,
My holidays are finally coming up and I have all new gaskets for the rearend, torquetube, yolk and transmission so I plan on refressing all of these in my 38 coupe.

I'm most concerned with the yolk and tube. My trans and yolk have been removed (by previous owner 40 years ago!) so I'm not sure where to start besides test fitting the trans and yolk and trying to make some sense out of the gaskets. I have multiple parts of everything so thought I might assemble my extra rearend/torquetube to a yolk and to a trans just to get an idea how this goes togther. Normally I would just assemble and drive to see what leaks but with the torque tube setup I have concerns of damaging something if the fluids wander to the back.

I keep reading about the "oakie" bushings available. Would I need something like this if I've already got everything torn apart (it sounded like the oakie was just a simpler fix than teardown for gastets or is it far superior)?

The gaskets on axles: Mine were on the outside of the axle hub between the axle hub and the brake drum. They look to be designed to hold fluid back but this would not be the spot to put them to contain fluid so I'm thinking maybe for noise or help keep dirt out of the area or are they in the wrong spot?They are round waxed paper gaskets about the size of the hub with holes for the wheel studs.

I plan on fully restoring in about 5 years so for now I'm reassembling to see what is missing and to do maintenance on anything needed prior to putting a few sunday drives on this car....

Any advice with this would be appreciated.

Thanks!

Kind of a tall order but I will begin with-
Is the transmission bolted up to the bell housing?
The front yoke of the U joint slips on to the splines on the rear of the transmission.The front of the yoke has the speedometer gear pressed on to it.The front half of the plate with 4 studs that bolts the U joint together must be installed. A bolt with a large washer fastens the yoke to the rear of the trans, shaft.
Before I would go any farther I would "fit" the U joint ball the the housing on the back of the transmission. There should be a few gaskets (actually also shims) in the set. Use the correct number of gaskets (they have the 4 ears with bolt holes)to make the ball snug in the "seat" but free to move. Save this correct number for assembly time. Note that a cork (later may be rubber) fits into the grove on the collar that bolts up to the trans. Install this cork in grove. Another seal fits into the back of the ball.It should be between two large washers the size of the seal. The threaded nut screws on the rear. The surface of the torque tube that the seal rides on should be smooth. When all is installed this nut must be tightened very tight. With the ball slid back on the torque tube and the rear half of the U joints can be installed on the drive shaft splines.After the U joint is bolted together the ball can be slid ahead and bolt together. The assembly of the U jnoint is not always easy.
To this point you have used a few of the ball gaskets (shims).The larger sealing ring and the small thick seal.
I would advise installing the Oakie busing while apart. The dowl is reomved from the torque tube and the front bushing removed. The Oakie will replace the front bushing, bump up against the rear bushing and have a seal in its rear end.
The paper gasket between the rear axle flange had drum is just an insulator between the two metals. No gear oil should be at that point. The rear axle seals are outside off the bearings as the gear oil lubricates the bearings.
Do you have a shop manual?

chevgene , is a " puller " needed for the oakie bushing & / or seal ? frank

It should not be necessary on a 1939.

Thanks. I have a shop manual so will start assembling with that and do a trial fit. It sounds more complex than it likely is. Everything is apart and I've got multiples of everything.

My holiday didn't go as planned so didn't get near my car so maybe in a couple weeks I'll give it a try.

Tim