VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1912-1928 Occassional flooding

What would make my car (28 engine) sometimes flood real bad upon start up and other times run perfect? When it floods, it still starts ok but black smoke pours out the exhaust.

Gremlins don't count, although that is probably what's wrong.

Hi,

Your problem is with the needle and seat. You probably have not driven the car much. Any foreign body that trys to come through the inlet can cause an obstruction. Time to drain the CENTER plug on the vacuum tank, and then the carb bowl. Once things get cleared out, your problem will go away.

From: Yakima, WA

Hi rbl2,
Another possibility for the occassional flooding,may be the vacuum valve sticking in the open position,once the float has risen inside the inner tank,then the engine vacuum will pull fuel straight into the vacuum line on the inlet manifold and straight into the motor,giving flooding symptoms.Just a thought worth checking out.
I know that this happens to the cars/trucks with the old diecast top.The vacuum valve seat comes adrift from the casting,and instant engine flooding.

You're right, I haven't driven the car, or even started it in about 6 months. I'll clean up the carb and the vaccuum tank both and hope for the best.

Thanks.

The vaccuum tank may indeed be sticking. It seemed to be spitting more fuel out of the vent then it should be. I'll look into that possibility as well.

rbl2,
Just another thought,check the float for any signs of cracking.The easiest way would be to immerse the float in a container of very hot water,and see if any air bubbles form.
I don't know if you can solder the float up(if it's cracked)as the extra weight of the solder could cause problems and make it(the float)too heavy,which will cause flooding.If the float is cracked,the only remedy may be a good second hand float.
Hope these thoughts are of some help to you.

If you have fuel exiting the vent of the vacuum tank, then you have a vacuum tank problem, float or valve problem.

The book says it's normal for fuel to exit occassionally. It squirts just a little out about once every minute or so. It'll do that several times and then stop for awhile and then start it again.

Either way, I'll try and get inside it today or tomorrow.

I found the problem. The float in the vaccuum tank has four, you read that correctly, 4, vertical cracks in it. One is open enough that I'm surprised it ran at all.

Now to get in my collection of vaccuum tanks and see what I can come up with.

Hi rbl2,
That's great that you found the problem!With the extra weight of fuel in the float,it's a wonder it was trying to run at all! A few of my mates "down under" have had the same problem with the floats on the steel lid type Stewart vacuum tank.They've tried soldering up the cracks,but the brass alloy the float is made of seems to sometimes defy soldering.
The brass was probably stessed from when it when was shaped,
and age has probably made it even more brittle and prone to splitting.
I'm glad my ideas were of help to you.

:grin:

Yes, thanks for the idea. Except for the one crack at first glance they looked like stress cracks but I put it under hot water as you suggested and the bubbles rolled.

Fortunately, I have three more identical to it. Unfortunately, they are indeed identical in the respect that they also leak. I tried soldering one and although I got the solder to stick it was a chore. With little or nothing to lose I have applied some JB Weld. I figure it's not any heavier than solder and it should work just as well. I hope. I'll find out tomorrow.

I went through this same problem a couple of years ago.. The
J.B. weld worked wonderful, for a short period of time.. The constant
immersion in gasoline caused it to flake off and I had one bad
mess and a non working V tank.. My solution was to have a
radiator repair guy solder the V. tank and float.. I coated the
v tank inside with Gas tank sealer and everything has been
fine for a couple of years. I recently checked it and its as good as the day it was repaired.

One possible repair to a leaky float is to seal the crack(s) with tape, super glue or other light material. Then dip the float in gas tank sealer (alcohol resistant only) a couple of times allowing to dry to a nearly dry state between the coats. Allow to dry for a day or more before assembling. It has saved many floats. Reproduction floats are also available from Gary Wallace, Stanley's Parts and others.

That's a good idea. I didn't even think of it. Thanks.