Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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#101880 05/30/07 07:57 PM
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Grease Monkey
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Grease Monkey
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G'day from Oz!
I have recently bought a 1936 Chev (standard) and will need some help! Thanks in advance!
In some pictures I see the grille has a chrome surround, in some pictures it doesn't. Mine was partly dismantled with some parts missing, so I don't know what I don't have!
Can someone help out? Was it that the Masters had a chrome surround and standards didn't?
Mine also hasn't got running boards. I have seen a few pictures and they don't look too had to make up, has anyone got some detailed specs or clear pictures I could use?
Thanks guys.

Jeff

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Hi Jeff. Where I live, Kansas is called Oz!
I have my 36 apart, and can send you some pictures of the general construction of the running boards. They're very rusted, but that makes it easier to pull off the mats and top plate, to see the construction underneath, if you want to try to duplicate that. However, mine's a Master, so I think the sizes are different. Let me know if you want some photos of what I've got, and I'll send them to your email address.
I'm making my first trip to Australia in July (Sydney, Melbourne, Darwin). My wife is going too (and son), but my wife thinks every living thing in Australia will kill her!


Randy Nudo
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Jeff,
The grille has a narrow surrond moulding on all 1936 cars.The radiator housing or grille shell (big thing the grille fits into) is the same for a Master and Standard. The hoods are the same except the Master has chrome mouldings on the louvers which require mounting holes. The front fenders are the same except the cars (Master and Standard) with leaf front springs have larger openings where the front spring hangers extend. The Standard running boards are about 3" shorter.The Standard head lights are painted, Master chrome. The rear fenders are all the same.Other than that most of the body parts are different for the Standard as the body was a bit shorter.Chassis parts, transmission and differential all Standard only. All engines the same.


Gene Schneider
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Grease Monkey
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Thanks "mate" for the reply. Any pictures of running boards would be great! Thanks.
Re your wife thinking every living thing will kill her, put her mind at ease! It's MOST living things....

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Originally Posted by Chev Nut
Jeff,
The grille has a narrow surrond moulding on all 1936 cars.The radiator housing or grille shell (big thing the grille fits into) is the same for a Master and Standard. The hoods are the same except the Master has chrome mouldings on the louvers which require mounting holes. The front fenders are the same except the cars (Master and Standard) with leaf front springs have larger openings where the front spring hangers extend. The Standard running boards are about 3" shorter.The Standard head lights are painted, Master chrome. The rear fenders are all the same.Other than that most of the body parts are different for the Standard as the body was a bit shorter.Chassis parts, transmission and differential all Standard only. All engines the same.
Thanks for that Chevgene. Now to start looking for the grille surround.

Jeff

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Grease Monkey
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Originally Posted by 36Roadster
Originally Posted by Chev Nut
Jeff,
The grille has a narrow surrond moulding on all 1936 cars.The radiator housing or grille shell (big thing the grille fits into) is the same for a Master and Standard. The hoods are the same except the Master has chrome mouldings on the louvers which require mounting holes. The front fenders are the same except the cars (Master and Standard) with leaf front springs have larger openings where the front spring hangers extend. The Standard running boards are about 3" shorter.The Standard head lights are painted, Master chrome. The rear fenders are all the same.Other than that most of the body parts are different for the Standard as the body was a bit shorter.Chassis parts, transmission and differential all Standard only. All engines the same.
Thanks for that ChevNUT (My mistake!). Now to start looking for the grille surround.

Jeff

Now, I am in the process of sorting out what needs to be done. The engine turns - or so I thought... Seems it has two stuck valves - number 3 and 4 inlet. Is there an easy way of freeing them up? I am reluctant at this stage to pull the head off, I have tried penetrating oil on the vavle stem, and levering up against the valve spring retainer - but I don't want to bend the valve stem.
Ideas?
I thought: the best thing is to drain the oil and refill with fresh.... So I drained about 4 litres of cool clear WATER from the sump.... Not rusy, but clear water. The car was supposed to have been kept under cover - it was in a garage when I found it, and the tyres where flat and had been in that position for many years... (Clear water??)

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Tap the tips of the valve stems lightly with a hammer.


Gene Schneider
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I would suggest it was stored with water in the radiator. Either the block/head has frozen and cracked or water came in by way of the valve cover.

I suspect the two valves that are stuck are very rusty. You can try lightly tapping on top of the two valves that are stuck while also applying a penetrate to the stems.

Sounds like the head is gonna have to come off and be magna fluxed to see if the problem is the head.

Be very careful when you lift the head off the block. Do not disturb the head gasket so it can also be examined for failure between some of the water passages.

Agrin devil


RAY


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Jeff
I am not sure if this applies to your motor or not but some manufacturers put freeze (welch) plugs behind the pushrod cover, if 1 of these has rotted through it would dump cooling contents into the sump. I would be dropping the sump and pushrod cover for closer inspection.
Someone also made a valid comment on the possibility of head gasket deteriation as well. Basically water in the sump is not good for any engine and the cause needs to be rectified.
Tony


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36Roadster
I live in Sydney and have a few mates with 36 Std. Chevs. Give me ring on 02-4625 7547
Randy
When you get to Sydney give me ring also and I'll be able to show you some Sydney based Aussie Chevs, any preference to what models?
Chris

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Grease Monkey
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Zoweee!
I tapped the valve in question (with a hide hammer) just pushed it (only did done) further into the head.
I have pulled heads off cars before, so it's not a great deal, I just thought, given the condition of the rest of the car, that the engine would be worth saving.
Chevguru: Whare abouts in Sydney are you? I have another contact in your area, with a "45" number. Not you is it?


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