VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1912-1928 1928 Capital, Water Pump

I have had a 1928 Chevy 1 1/2 ton capital for a few years. I recently heard a disturbing "tinging" sound that I finally traced to the fan blade... it was kissing the bottom pulley at idle when the engine was warm. Not constantly, just once in a while.

After I shut it down, I noticed that the water pump would move back and forth. And I noticed that the bottom pulley seemed wierd.

I pulled the radiator and the bottom pulley seemed to fall off the shaft.

Someone prior to me had welded the shaft within the pulley and none of that was holding anything. I cleaned everything up, ground off the weld within the pulley, cleaned up the shaft, and with the appropriate key, reinstalled the pulley.

A. What the heck holds that pulley on the shaft? Do I depend on the belt to keep the thing from simply running off the shaft.

B. Does anyone out there have any "explosion" view of these water pumps.

C. Does anyone out there rebuild these water pumps?

Thanks for any help you can throw me.

Don Rumbaugh in Hanover PA.

Hi Don,

Hi Don,

The front pulley is held on by friction. If the crankshaft has been ground down or shaved you may have a problem. If the pulley fits on there with a bit of friction, you can make great improvements. With a good sharp chisel, make several parallel cuts in the crankshaft where the pulley fits. This will expand the crankshaft, and make the pulley fit more tightly.

As to an explosion of the water pump, the order of business from the small disc on the end of the pump that the fan blade attaches to is followed next by the pulley. Behind the pulley is a washer. With these two items removed the shaft can be removed. Next would be a front bushing which has a hole that matches the one in the housing. Next item would be the packing nut. You would next remove the back bushing that holds the packing. Another washer and finally the impeller that moves the coolant.

There are several of us that rebuild the 4-cylinder pumps. As we speak there may be a shortage of kits. The rebuilder would need a new kit to complete the job.

Finally----welcome to the forum. Glad to have you aboard.

Hi Ray:

Thanks for the warm welcome. Nice to find so many "good eggs" in our sport.

I'll be looking for a rebuilding kit.

Does anyone sell a replacement water pump for this that is better than the original? I am sensitive to the original equipment, but I am also a realist. If I have to maintain it a lot, it sits even more. If I could find a replacement that had better seals, it wouldn't break my heart.

Any idea what the compression should be on these engines? This buggy seems awfully underpowered to me, but maybe it's just the way it is.

Thanks again.... I'll be watching for more.

Don Rumbaugh

I have some 1928 Engines that I will take parts off of.

The original water pump is more than adequate and is fairly bullet proof.

Compression will run around 80 lbs + or - 20 lbs. The reading will depend on your gage, speed of engine, condition of battery, ect, ect. The important item is that they are all about the same.

You have a truck, not a dragster.

Post some of your needed parts and we will point you.

I took some time, and read a lot of the old conversations about this topic and more. Copied a bunch of "stuff". Looks like this is the resource for Chevys.

On the subject of rebuilding the water pump... are re-building kits that hard to come by? Should I simply look for one from a supplier and get it?

Thanks. Will continue tonight after work. Did you ever notice that work screws up a perfectly good day?

Don Rumbaugh

I just recently used the last kit I had. Have not made a major effort to restock, but expect difficulty. Unless you are more knowledgeable than the average owner I would not recommend you attempt the rebuild. Excellent opportunity to break the fan disc or crack the housing.

Ray,

Would you share your methods and/or precautions that you take for removal and reinstallation of the fan blade disc. I've rebuilt a few '27 '28 water pumps over the years but I've also had problems with disc breakage. I've not tried it yet but have considered soaking the shaft in dry ice for a period of time and using a "little" heat on the disc to ease the re assembly.

Thanks, Dick

So you want me to reveal my trade secrets? Simple, grind and split the impeller. Press it out the front.

Thanks for sharing your trade secret. That makes sence. In the past the problem I've encountered has been getting a flat surface on the bottom of the fan blade disc to press against. With the shaft out I can invision how that's accomplished. Sometimes the simple things are over looked by the fact that they are so simple.

Thanks again!

Hi,
Gary Wallace sells a rebuilding kit for 1918 thru 1934 for $90.00. http://www.20schevyparts.com/ Regards,Ray

P.S.Gary rebuilds them too.

Thanks to everyone for the support and concern. I am going to re-install the water pump and then watch it like a hawk. If I can get through the summer, I'll ship this pump to a recommended re-builder and git 'er done RIGHT.

Thanks again.

Don Rumbaugh

I hate to seem to be going backwards, but...

I cleaned up the water pump last night, removed the gasket where it mounts to the block. No Problem.

On the pump, I noticed a recessed area just inside the gasket area mentioned above. It is a smaller diameter area just behind the impeller. I removed what appeared to be the remains of a metal gasket. It might have been the remains of a gasket with a wire around the outside directly adjacent to the outside gasket...but it was definately metal.

I can find a gasket for mounting the pump to the block. Don't have a clue on this other gasket. Since it doesn't lay between any surfaces that are bolted together, is it a "glued in" gasket to give the impeller more pumping volume?

Confused in Hanover PA.... soon to be Hangover PA.

Thanks

Don Rumbaugh

Hi Don,

That is why we get the experts involved. What is missing is the baffle. It is always replaced at the time of rebuilding the WP. Prior experience says that the baffle is to be fitted to the WP.

Hi:

OK... I give up. It appears that I need to get this water pump re-built correctly... the first time. (I'm pretty good about the 3rd time...if you know what I mean.)

I have seen the name Gary Wallace come up here and it seems to me that I should get in touch with him. Is this the forum?

Thanks

Don Rumbaugh

Insurance Man; here is his web site.

http://www.20schevyparts.com/

Hey... This Gary Wallace web site is great. I will probably end up paying a few of his mortgage payments before this is over.

I don't understand the 'icons". Is that to demonstrate my attitude?

Don

I have dealt with Gary Wallace almost exclusively. He has never disappointed me.

The icons are there to show your attitude. If there is no icon we will think you're angry at us and we will ignore you. :grin:

Only believe most of what rbl2 writes. He has been known to stick his tongue firmly against his right cheek (or left as the case may be).