VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - GENERAL Mechanical - Engine, Trans, etc Replacing Motor Mounts 1941 Inline 6

Getting ready to replace the motor mounts on my 1941 Special Deluxe (inline 216). The rear mounts have essentially turned into a thick, black goo that slowly drips but they appear easy to access and change. The front mounts appear OK but I'm replacing them anyway as the engine really jumps around when running.

The front mount below the alternator appears fairly easy to access with a socket and extension. However, the bolt for the front mount on the other side is hidden from view between the frame and the engine. What's the best way to get to this one? I don't really want to remove the radiator but will if there is no other way.

Got the rear ones replaced. What a truly dirty job that was! And, I swear, I'm quickly becoming ambidextrous.

I'm ready to tackle the front ones. I'm figuring the way to do it is to remove the lower bolts and then jack the engine to give a bit more working room for the upper bolts. Maybe. I don't know. Guess I'll find out.

Sounds like a plan to me!

dick

BJ,

They are not that hard to replace. Remember while they may look ok they may be split or mushy. They need to be replaced once in a while.

Good luck,

Charlie

BTW: We 41ers are not like the 47/47 fleet liners. We try to not let the neighbors see us work on a 41. So please to this job behind closed doors.

Got 'em all replaced. Remembered somewhere on this forum someone mentioning they wished they had taken the radiator out first for the front mounts. Since I'm going to be cleaning and flushing it anyway, I took the radiator out. I can't see how anyone could replace those front mounts without removing it, unless it involved a lot of cursing and beer. Removing the grill would have made it even easier.

Those mounts were completely gone. When I first looked at the car, before buying it, I couldn't figure out why it looked like rubber was slo-mo dripping from the bottom of the car. Those were the mounts! The rubber was completely de-vulcanized. I had to scrape what was left of the front mounts off the frame just so the new mounts could sit right.

Off to cleaning and flushing! And then rebuilding the brakes, ditching the vacuum assist shift (which is only partly there) and putting in a shift conversion, and then putting in a new vacuum advance. After that I won't have any more excuses for avoiding the suspension. Leaf springs are laying totally flat and I can see the the driver's side has at least one broken leaf. Front suspension isn't much better and I'm considering a complete rebuild of that, too.

Lots to think though to remove the front motor mounts. Here are a few old posts to enlighten you a little more. Do remember we have an index of all our old postings that you can access through the SEARCH process. Also, the transmission mount is just as important as the motor mounts as is even the front bushing in the drive shaft. I would not worry about the drive shaft bushing unless you are still feeling engine vibration after redoing all the mounts. I have taken a lot of assembly pictures so if you get confused and could use a picture let me know.

Good luck, Mike

P.S. On the degree of difficulty chart this is about a 5-7. I have "been there done that." Post more questions if you are confused.

Engine and transmission mounts

41 Special Deluxe Motor Mounting

Engine Mounts

1940-Transmission-Rear-Engine-Mounts

Yep, realized when I was under there that I had forgotten about the transmission mount. That's also on my to-do list, along with the pinion seal, the differential and pretty much everything else under the car. Basically, I want her mechanically sound and rarin' to go before starting any body/interior work.

Thanks for the links! I'm always looking for tips, advice and anything I might not have thought of. Worked on cars a lot in my younger years but never this extensive.

What pinion seal are you referring to?

BJ,

For goodness sakes do not eleminate the vacuum shift. Get the parts you need and rebuild it. You do not have to put the rubber cover on it if you don't want to. Get a adjustment tool from CofF or FS. If you need a part or two, I might be able to help.

The vacuum shift makes the car drive like a dream as far as shifting goes. Even a Fleet lines owner wouldn't eleminate a vacuum shift.

Best,

Charlie

BTW: If you intend to put a fulton on the car, forget my advice on the vacuum shift. Such a setup seems to go together.

I've read posts on other forums that almost always complain that the vacuum assist shift is more pain to deal with than it's worth. I would love to keep it but it looks pretty bad. The original owner just disconnected it when if failed. Right now it's all cruddy and the rubber boot is shot.

I'm not sure what a fulton is is. I have a shift conversion already ordered from ChevsOfThe40s. Looks to be a simple linkage.

It does shift now but it takes a little effort, though less effort than some old trucks I've driven.

And I may not be calling a pinion seal by the correct name. It's the seal where the driveshaft goes into the differential. Mine is obviously leaking.

Just another comment about any work involving the drive shaft around the torque tube. Please read the two Filling Station articles I have cited in the following post. 39 Chevy Oakie Bushing

Good Luck, MIke

P.S. I like your theory of doing all the mechanical things first before doing body work. I spent about 10 years getting all my mechanical problems solved before tackling my frame off restoration. My goal was to work on the car winters and drive it the rest of the year. With brake work it is a must to replace your original brake lines, rebuild or replace your brake cylinders and master cylinder, and get your emergency brake so it is in working condition.

BJ
There is no seal near the pinion bearing, the seal between gearbox and differential is just below the universal joint near the gearbox and in incooperates a bush to keep the driveshaft aligned properly.
Tony

I've bookmarked the Filling Station articles and noted where in the shop manual it covers removal of the drive shaft and work on the seals. I can see some sort of lubrication is covering the bottom of the transmission, the front of the drive shaft, the rear of the drive shaft, and of course all over the differential. Obviously, I need new seals and such all around. May have to tackle this before the suspension just for drive-ability and so I don't cause additional damage to anything critical.

Thanks to everyone for the helpful advice. Keep the tips coming!

And, Mike, yep, I learned from my neighbor who did a beautiful restoration of a 39 Packard convertible with rumble seat. Problem was he immediately tore it all down when he bought it 30 years ago and never got to drive it again until he finally finished it this last summer. I figure as long as I tackle all the mechanical stuff first, at least I have a good excuse to keep test driving it to verify the work.

OK so if you have leaks that you want to take care of, there are a couple of places where gaskets and seals need to be replaced. When you undo then front of the torque tube, there is a ball seal, several gasket shims and the collar also has a seal. If you have a leak between the rear of the torque tube and the axle housing, you would need to remove the torque tube to replace the gasket. I mention the last one because it is frustrating to have that leak after everything else is put together. Ask me how I know!

So it sounds like what I expected anyway - that I'll have to take the drive shaft/torque tube off and replace gaskets and seals at both ends.

Not getting to that just yet but it's good to know. I'm sure I'll be working on it this summer some time. I'll start a new thread if I run into problems/questions.

My 38 Master didn't used to leak at the interface between the torque tube and the axle housing. However after installing an Oakie bushing in the front of the torque tube, it started to have a small leak. I think the pounding damaged the old dried up gasket.