VCCA Home Forums Thread Like Summary - 48 Fleetmaster Questions

My daughter and son-in-law inherited a 48 Fleetmaster which has been sitting in a garage sine 1997. It raises lots of questions, but the goal is to sell it for a fair price.

- Tires all flat. Assume all 4 need replacing. Sources for bias-ply tires, 6.00x16, or maybe 6.70x15 (I need to check)
- No battery. I think it is a 6V system?
- ignition key is missing. can I get one with the VIN? Is there a VIN? Where is it? If no VIN, or can’t get key …remove/disassemble the ignition switch from behind the dash? Have key fitted or replace? I’ve seen many ignition switches, none look as old as the one in there.
- Trunk doesn’t open. Get in by removing rear seat?
- Style no. is 48-1011, it is as 2 door, but there’s a couple types a coupe, and a sedan?
- There is a body number - is that what is the ID (pre-VIN)?



The paint seems original and though it has some chips, it’s otherwise very nice. The body has no rust, or very little including up under the wheel wells. No obvious bodywork. The interior is also original, no rips, but headliner is stained. Top of dash is sort of corroded looking, but gauges all look good (can’t tell without a battery / starting engine). Radiator still has antifreeze in it. No oil leaks on the floor. 6 cyl engine, one barrel carb.block has GM48 stamp. Looks like a car that should be kept original.


Any help, suggestions, pointers would be much appreciated.

Add a few pictures might help to determine what needs to e done.

If getting it ready for sale my thoughts are as follows:

My caution is that getting it running properly might cost more than the difference to what you would get to sell it as is. Big selling point is that the parts are all there and you have the registration / title in your name.

If you do not start it right you could do damage. If the gas is old and gest sucked into the pump and carb it can gum things up. If you can turn the engine over by hand then with some work it should go.

For the tires I would see if they hold air long enough to roll it from point A to B. If they do not replace the tubes and not the tires. If someone plans to restore the car they will get the type they want. The next guy may want black walls or white walls for the tires.

Unfortunately fixing these cars is a labor of love and financial loss. What is gained is the enjoyment, sense of accomplishment and time with self, family and or friends while working on these old cars. In my opinion the time spent and memories of are worth far more than the money spent.

Dick, 95% of the pictures I post are some I pull from a large file folder of cars ('46,'47,'48)I have encounter along the years. Easer to do that than go take a picture and download to post.

I can not remember exactly the year myself and 10 or 11 others incorporated the Central Georgia Region Chapter of the VCCA. At that time the person we elected as our first president had a collection of 98 cars. Most were Chevrolets. 2 '47's and 4 '48's., is where I took many picture to use as reference. Without those I would have never been able to reassemble my car since I did not take it apart. It came to me in many, many boxes of parts. Those boxes sat from '06 to 2010 when I finally decided to try and put it back together. For 3 years doing some little something every day with the help of those pic's and the help from here on chat I succeeded.

You forced me to go take this

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I have also admired Russ's 48 for the years I have been on VCCA Chat. My 48 is not as nice, but it is like it was when a little 94 lb lady had it.

Well, you certainly did an excellent job! Updated pic looks more like I expected of you.

Dick

Remove a door lock and send me the code. I will be glad to make a key and send it to you.
If the car is to be sold, as stated in your original post, I would not do anything to get it running. Let the new owner do all that stuff, his way. I bought a car that had been stored for 60 years and the tires aired up enough to move it from the New York barn. It would be nice to know that the engine will turn, but other than that, I would leave it alone. If the car looks as good as you describe, that will sell it. The one thing you can do to make the car bring its fair value is to get a good title for it.

Mike

In '48 it is on the passenger side. Between the front door hinges.


Locked position. Key needed to turn.

As to a battery, Group 1 Most farm supply and auto store can still get them. Bought one two weeks ago at oreilleys.https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...ize-1/ssb5/1?q=group+1+battery&pos=0

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I did not read all the replys but in 1948 the igniton key fit the doors also and the trunk.

The key number is stamped on the pawl for the door lock cylinder, The number will be in the 8000- and 9000 rangee.

Given that you do not know much of the maintenance history on the car, go through all the systems in an organized manner.

Brakes are the most important. Then steering.

Be very critical when you inspect the wiring. If the insulation is cracked and missing, there can be real problems including fire.

I agree that you need to spend time making sure that you can get clean fuel to the engine.

Check out these suggestions for getting the engine ready to run.

Starting a Long-Idled Chevy

If the glove box lock is the same as my '51, it is very easy to take it off, open it up, and the key code is on the cylinder. Any locksmith can cut a new key from that code. If you need help with this, I can walk you through it if you call me at 248-860-1157.
Jeff

Hi Dick, The three position switch was used into the early '50's if I remember correctly. As you guessed it was so someone could move/use the car without access to the glove compartment or trunk, since one key fits all locks.

The '48-'49 switch has a tab under the key slot. If the tab and key slot is straight up and down then it is in the start/run position. If the top of the slot is to the driver and the tab is to the passenger that is the off/lock position. If the top of the slot is to the passenger and the tab it to the driver side that is the off/unlock position. In the off/unlock position all you have to do to start the motor is turn the switch vertical, without a key and press the starter pedal.

Hi Cardinal2B

Yes 1948 Chevrolets DID have a VIN/serial number.

I'm not interested in getting into a discussion over the semantics of what is or isn't a "VIN" as opposed to a serial number.
Suffice it to say, Chevrolet was calling their "vehicle identification numbers" exactly that well before any government legislated numbering system came into force.
Either way, your car has/had one when new, and still will unless it was removed by someone.

I'm not sure exactly where yours is/was, but I'd look on the door post/jamb at the front edge of the driver's door.

For more information on VIN/serial numbers in 1948, look here:
https://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/chevyresto/4813.htm

Hope that helps. 🙂

PS
While it is true that many states used the engine number to title cars, many did not.
When they didn't, they used the serial number/VIN.