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Cannot say specifically, but after reading everyone’s posts, I went to bed last night to sleep on it. Got up at 4:30am and went straight to the garage. Started to go thru every one of these steps in succession, beginning at the tank.
1. Removed the sender and visually checked the float for proper movement. With the tank HALF FULLof gasoline (pre measured), reinserted sender into tank.
2. Added a secondary ground wire to chassis attached directly to sender. Tested for OHMs. 19 at sender post.
3. Then proceeded to check on sender wire to gauge. Found a splice under the chassis from sometime in the past. Cut out the old splice. Cut a new section of wire from sender to wiring harness and re-spliced with a new weatherproof connector. Tested for OHMs at the end of the sender wire harness, where connection is made to gauge. 19 OHMs.
4. Took a tap/die and cleaned the threads on both the gauge sender post and the nuts that attach sender wire to that gauge post. Attached sender wire to gauge.
5. Added a new ground wire screwed into gauge mounting screw, terminating the other end directly to a dash/chassis support bar.
6. Turned battery connection back on and ignition switch on. Gauge read approximately 1/2 full tank.
7. Removed all gas from tank. Gauge read EMPTY.
8. Added gas back to tank, 4 gallons at a time. After each fill, checked gauge. Each time, gauge read 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 and FULL respectively.
So, there you go. I finished late this Saturday morning. I took my time, no rush, no interruptions and enjoyed the morning breezes while lying on my back on the floor and in the cab.
It’s simple mechanical stuff, but I do not know which one(s)of the above actions made a difference. In the end, I have a working fuel gauge (accurate).
Randy
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