VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1929-1932 Rear axle removal

The outside rear bearing seal is part of the rear bearing retainer which holds the axle shaft and rear bearing into place. The metal retainer has 10 bolt holes (five on top and five on the bottom) and the inner felt seal with the metal ring is pressed into the large bearing retainer, making the bearing retainer and the felt seal all one unit, and the unit is bolted into place with 10 hex bolts.

Right Skipper, and that's right where I get stumped. I took the 10 hex bolts and the metal retainer off, and I can clearly see the outside rear bearing seal and felt seal. They won't slide out, however, because they seem to be held in place by this slightly cone-shaped solid part of the axle that holds the woodruff key. Am I supposed to cut away the old seal and press the new seal into place (in effect, "pop" it over this solid portion of the axle)?

The outside seal is held in by the bolts on the seal housing which also holds the axle bearing in place. To replace the seal it is necessary to remove the axle key and then remove the seal. The tapered axle end does not retain the seal. If you have a modern replacement seal it will be necessary to remove the old seal and retainer. The retainer is staked to the seal housing.

I appreciate that, Chipper. I guess I may apologize a bit for still being a little dense.

I've done all the steps described by you and Skipper. I can clearly see and touch the existing outside seal with the felt ring nestled inside, but it's stuck tight, and there's no wiggle or any other apparent way of sliding it off the axle. I tried lightly tapping at it, but there's no movement whatsoever. Would I literally cut off the old outside seal and push the new one into place? Or would I try to gently chisel around the inside hole on the existing seal to loosen it and slip it over the axle?

The felt seal is part of a round metal ring that, in turn, is either pressed into or staked into the round metal bearing retainer with the 10 holes. With the axle key removed from the tapered part of the axle, the entire assembly slides off the axle. However, it sounds like the felt seal and it's metal ring have come loose from the metal bearing retainer and have become stuck to the axle shaft. Since the seal is felt it should slide right off of the axle shaft. If not, cut it off since you will have to install a new felt seal anyway.

The Filling Station has new neoprene seals, but you will have to use the old felt seal metal ring and the metal bearing retainer with the 10 holes. If you destroy the metal ring that goes around the felt seal, then you will have to find a NOS or a NORS metal bearing retainer and seal since they come as a unit.

Also, keep in mind that there were two different axle sizes in 1932, therefore the axle seal is different as well. You will have to determine which axle size you have before ordering a new seal.

Skipper, NOW I AM enlightened! :eek:

Your diagnosis fits with what I'm looking at - the seal didn't come off with the retainer, which was why I was puzzled at what you and Chipper were describing.

I bought the outer seal from the Filling Station, but I can't recall if I noticed an indication of axle size. That indeed has a little neoprene seal around the inside hole, which is what I presume you're talking about...? I'll have to look over what I ordered versus what I need.

Yes, look over the seal to determine what you need. The Filling Station sells both sizes in stock. Also, if you install a double sealed bearing on your axle shaft, then you don't need the outer seal anyway.

JYD, Do you need to remove the inside seal out of the new bearing to get grease from the differential? Or is it permanently lubricated?

You may have either a '31 or early '32 seal which is smaller diameter than the later one. If so it may be stuck on the axle and turn with the axle instead of being held in place by the retainer (10 bolt piece). If that is the case then prying it off or carefully cutting it is the best solution.

Wow - I think Chip hit it dead center!

That's exactly the situation - the seal DOES turn with the axle, is smaller than the axle, and doesn't have any direct relationship to the metal retainer, which is why I was having trouble grasping what was being described earlier.

After the seal is the felt seal, followed by a another metal ring that is loose and can be freely wiggled around. Should that piece be that way, or is it supposed to snap into the outside seal?

As posted above, the felt seal is inside of a metal ring, and that metal ring (with the felt seal) is either pressed into or staked into the metal bearing retainer with the 10 holes making it all one unit.

Ed,
Apparently someone used a earlier seal when they did not have the correct late '32 seal. The metal parts of the seal (stamped shallow cup, felt and flat plate) locked onto the shaft and turned in the retainer. That being the case that may have effectively destroyed the retainer. It may be saveable with silicone, epoxy or other sealer to retain the new seal. You may also need to enlarge the center hole a bit.

Yeah, apparently put on 40 years ago. Some people have no consideration for the next generation.

Guys, everything that's been posted here has been immensely helpful, and now it all begins to make sense. When I first started rebuilding the car 4 years ago, I noticed that this rear wheel had a coating of gunk on it. I repacked the bearings with grease, but over the past summer the wheel started dripping again. Based on what Chipper has been telling me IS there, and what Skipper is saying SHOULD be there, makes a heck of a lot of sense now - at some point in the distant past this mistake was made.

"Is there a statute of limitations on blaming the previous owner?"

Yes! However, the statue of limitations goes back to the day the first dude purchased the car new from the Chevrolet dealer. :eek:

Statute of limitations? Even if there is one and it begins with the initial purchase you will need find the dude to extract whatever you feel is deserved. Finding the dude might prove to be more difficult than the effort is worth. Just go inside sit down and suck down a cool one. Tomorrow you will be able to laugh about the "$%*& mechanic" that worked on it way back then.

Did somebody say "a cool one"? :eek:

You bet! Lemonaide for me!

Lemonade? :(

Lemonade?


JYD, I did ask. When the rear wheel bearings are replaced with new double sealed bearings is it necessary to pluck out the inner seal so that the bearing will get GREASE from the rearend?
I have been told YES and NO, that the bearings are permanently lubed.

The bearings are permanently lubed.

And, the rear end has heavy oil, not grease. :eek:

Thanks, JYD, Like the man said " Jest take the old Mutt's word for it, boys!"

The brake drums are off and I have the 10 bolts removed along with the outer seal retainer so now the axel should come right out I think. Do you use a puller of some sort or a persuasion tool as mine don't come out by just pulling on them? I'm just guessing the bearings are just stuck to or pressed on to the housing. I am coming along quite well on the wood, motor, and body parts so I did something since my last post here.

The axle bearings are a press fit into the ends of the axle housing. With the brake system and the backing plates off, remove the axle key and then slide the brake drum back on loosely. Then put on the axle nut a few turns. Using the brake drum as a slide hammer, slide the brake drum rapidly against the axle nut and the axle shaft and the bearing should then come out of the axle housing fairly easily.

Hey, Thanks JYD. Will do tomorrow. Is that 3 or 4 I owe you in Grand Junction?

Jerry,
You can pay me instead of the dog. I will be at GJ but doubt the dog will show his face. He should but it is tough to get him out of his own yard.