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we bought a 1940 california license plate recently for a buck...it's a little worn, so we want to repaint it...can anyone suggest a rattle can paint out there that is the right shade of yellow?..it's not worth a lot, so we don't want to send it to a pro for refinishing...

thanks,


epi

I'm sorry I'm no help on the color. I can say if you have cracks in the plate, JB WELD, makes a good repair but put it on smooth.

thanks for the tip, john...no cracks, just that the surface rust has eaten away alot of the paint in the central area...


epi

I am very interested in restoring a few plates I have, what is the method of painting the numbers and letters "other them"a small brush and good eyes?A large rubber roller seems like it would follow the height of the text and border??chef-

For the 1940 California license plate color ... I used X-O Rust (spray can) Interior/Exerior Enamel. Color code XO-38 Caution Yellow. Believe it is an exact match or at least very close.

To paint ... my wife very carefully spread oil (or vaseline?) over the black numbers and letters. I then sprayed the plate, let it dry and removed the "goop" from the black lettering. Worked fine.

I have done it 2 ways:

1. Spray the letters/numbers w/o any masking and then you can use painter's masking tape and pin striping tape (after drying) and VERY carefully tape (you can get various widths of tape) the letters/numbers and then spray the whole plate.

2. Paint the letters/numbers with enamel paint then after drying paint the entire plate with lacquer paint after it dries you use a rag on your finger dipped in lacquer thinner and using your finger tip you VERY carefully wipe the lacquer paint off of the numbers/letters.

Dealer's choice...good luck.

For Chef-chevy. I have been experimenting trying to find something to paint the raised numbers with and a rubber roller just would not work for me. Neither would a very short napped roller or one with felt wrapped around it. So far, the best thing I have found is a foam brush cut to the width of the letters. This is just the foam brush that comes to a "V". You need a steady hand but with the right amount of paint, it comes out pretty good with the color just slightly going over the rounded edge of the letters. This is what the original looked like. I filled the smaller pits, etc., with red glazing putty (can be diluted for very small pits) and used a very fine water sanding to do the final smoothing. I am doing a set of '38 plates for NY and so far have one painted black (spray can) but haven't put the lettering on it yet. The black looks great. If you come up with something that may work better for the lettering, please post it here. Stuart

I used a rubber roller (brayer) and it didn't work well at all. I got the paint on the roller evenly with a pane of glass - it just didn't roll well.

I was thinking of retrying with a 4" foam paint roller and a light touch. After reading the last replay about a foam brush working well, I definately plan to try the foam roller.

I tried enamel spray paint over the entire plate, let it dry several days and then used a thin artist brush and enamel paint on the letters and numbers. What a mess!!! I am going to do it over.
37Blue

Hello All,

On the WASHINGTON STATE TAG I sprayed the tag front and back with three coats of Rattle can enamel.
The letters I hand painted with an artists brush and "Sign Painters - 1 SHOT Enamel". It comes in 1/2 Pint sizes and can be found anywhere you buy car paint. It has a lot of pigment and flows well. Sometimes I hold the brush with both hands.

thanks to everyone for the great suggestions, and particularly the color...we're eager to try it out when we get back from the junkyard dog tour!..


epi

Hey 37Blue,

I like an honest man!!!

Hey John Gill,
Tell us more about the artists brush that you used.
BigBob...

I first thought the roller was a good idea but it didn't work for me.

A little pointed brush is what I used. A small brush gives you control. For the border of the tag I lay the brush on its side and slide it carefully along the high ridge.

This part requires a lite touch.

John:
Thanks, me too. Sounds like the difference in results was the paint selection (model paint), and brush technique. My job turned out looking good in dim light from 10 or more feet away, viewed through foggy lenses. Needless to say if I ever get to the point of even thinking about doing pin striping myself, please someone give me a swift kick in the pants. I'm sure Old Blue would be thankful.
37Blue

Thanks John Gill!

I used One Shot for my badges, but there I had a line to paint up against. You must have a very steady hand to pull a line clear around a number or letter. Does your brush have a number on it?

BigBob...

I painted the plate the correct color. Then I used a brush and painted a good coat of the number color on a sheet of 1/4" thick rubber laying on a flat surface. Next I placed the license face down on the painted surface of the rubber. Lifted it off and the numbers were painted as well as the state, year, and the border ridge. Very quick.

See you down the pack roads.

Is that called a Back Roads Ink Pad?

It very well could be.

back roads,

that sounds like a good method...think we'll give it a try...


epi

Back Roads did you fab some type of handle on the back of the plate to lift it back out of the plate?chef-chevy

chef-chevy, No, I did not have a handle. I just used my fingers. After you mentioned it I thought you could ues two magnets to lift by. Be careful to lift straithe up.

See you down the back roads.

I have not tried the rubber sheet; however I think it is worth a try. I like new ideas.

The old guys learned by trial & error.

Me to!

Of course I mean us young guys are willing to learn!!!!!

The key is to use One-Shot sign painters paint. It is slow drying and highly pigmented. Covers well and drys slow enough to produce a flat surface without brush marks on the letters, numbers and border. If you use a rubber pad then the plate must be straight and numbers, letters, border all on the same plain.