VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - GENERAL Radios, Tools, Accessories 1928 School is again in session!

My draft card says that I have to go right after the women and childen this time.

I dont know where the haybaling fits into this thread but I remember at least 6 years of the fork it in balers. Harvest was much easier after the automatic feed and tie units.

This has been a very informative line even though I am working on a 38 6cyl vehicle. I am still interested in the early technology and the various updates right through to current production.

I have not found (although not looked hard yet) someone down under the does the whitemetal bearings.

Tony

Tony, It is nice to see that someone is working on a "Modern car" like your 1938, (To me,Modern means, it is newer than I am)......

:cool2:

Hey Macky Wacky! A 1914 Chevrolet is newer than you are! :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek:

Ok Doggie breath, you don't have to tell everythang you know! just because you are a young-whipper-snapper!

Mromano ,

Thanks for the apple. Check the next entry for a discussion of the types of U-joints.

RustyFender ,

Very astute observation on the type U-joint that I used. I also have several of the multi-part units of the stamped steel variety. When inspecting my supply to complete this job, the after-market unit I used appeared to be the best of the bunch. For some reason the gear that drives the speedometer gear is stripped on several of my U-joints. Not sure what this indicates. Could be a lack of lubrication of the cable drive, speedometer, or the U-joint cavity did not have any/or improper lubrication.

For a picture of the use of the special tool to mate the two U-joint 1/2s, see page 74 of the Series AA-AB Repair Manual. The bailing wire works just as well if not better.

Oldie ,

Alas, the jack you see me using is of the era, however, a close inspection of the handle reveals a 4-letter word that starts with F. Can’t put my finger at the moment on a picture in a Chevrolet publication that shows a similar jack in use.

MrMack ,

I am not aware of any specific instructions about clearance in the assembly of the ball 1/2s other than rules that apply to any U-joints. As a rule, I start with several gaskets for a trial fit, if too loose, it is easier to cut a gasket for removal than to take apart and install gaskets if too tight. If I have missed a point on this assembly, please enlighten us.

MrMack ,

As a general rule, the procedures I have outlined in this series are the same for any engine assembly. Even if you don’t indulge in the operation of your Chevrolet this specific, at least you can appreciate the work done for you that has been farmed out.

Don’t have any recommendations as to who to contact in your land that pour the bearings and does the line bore. Perhaps someone from this forum will contact you with information.

Although I am making good progress and am on schedule, this project just seams to get bogged down with the minor problems. As mentioned earlier, when you have an engine out of the chassis, it is a good chance to clean up, repair, paint, and adjust any component that has been exposed or removed. The engine compartment was toughly cleaned and repainted. Excellent opportunity to replace the wiring harness, which I did. The steering box was rebuilt (more on that later). In the process of rebuilding that unit the steering lock and key mechanism was rebuilt. ( Key& Lock ).

As with most cars of this vintage the choke pull was inoperative and some innovative prior owner had punched an extra hole in the dash to install an aftermarket choke pull. (Don’t you just hate it when you find extra holes in places where they were not intended?)

Fortunately the original choke handle and holder were still present. They were removed, disassembled, and sent out for plating.




Next is to purchase a universal choke/throttle cable. Be sure and select one that the sheath is the same size as the original. Cut the sheath and cable at the end of the holder.



You will discover that the original holder was actually threaded on the sheath end. Simply ***** the sheath into the original holder.



The choke pull has a hole near the end and groves on each side. Bend the inner wire into a ½ “H” as shown in the picture. Make sharp bens so it will fit in the holder.




This is the completed unit and ready to install.



When installing the cable be sure to thread it through the holder prior to connecting to the carburetor. (All you students with 1928 vehicles stop now and inspect your vehicle for this holder).



Finished product. Needless to say, all the instruments, lighting switch and all labels were restored while the instrument cluster was out. Even the speedometer was rebuilt and reset to “0” miles. I do not consider this a speedometer resetting in the current context. The cable was broken when I received the car and actual mileage is only a conjuncture.

Homework: After the U-joint was buttoned up, what type and how much lubrication if any, was placed in the ”˜ball”?

(My apologies. Looks like the kids were playing while I was getting the lesson together)

That engine looks clean enough to eat off of. Show it to me in 1000 miles Also, good homework question. I did some research and found a couple articles regarding lubrication of the universal. The following is from June 1927 Service News page 23.



The manual states the universal joint should be lubricated with 600W every 1000 miles however, it does not state capacity of the universal ball. In my own case, I generally add enough oil to fill the bottom of the ball as any more would simply drain past the front driveline bushing, down the housing and into the differential. I occasionally pull the fill plug on the differential and allow any overflow to drain out.

Also, here is a picture of the proper tool for universal joint assembly from the repair manual. Another picture appears in the 1927 Chevrolet Service News.



Regards,
-R

I noticed (as pointed out in the picture )and is also noted in the repair manual that the Alimite connection was removed and replaced with a pipe plug in the rear housing thru which the universal joint is lubricated to prevent service people from useing a "high Pressure" gun to lube the U-joint as high pressure would force the heavy lube oil up into the speedometer cable,it also noted the Alimite connection should not be reinstalled, It went on to say that the housing should be "filled" with a low pressure gun or pump. I didn't see how much heavy oil should be put in when the U-joint was installed, but I remember it takes about one pint to fill it initially and then it should be topped off every 1000 mile interval.

And yes "Teach" when you leave the room and don't return for a few days the students get to discussing other things, I ,myself ONLY reply to their rambleings because I am weak and gulliable, and often get sucked into their stories! LOL!

Looks like I will have to give RustyFender full credit for his homework answer. Nice job.

Yes, we know what the correct procedure is; however I have disassembled more U-joints packed with grease than the 600W oil as specified.

The Service News page acknowledges some leakage from the rear of the transmission into the U-joint ball area. Over a period of time this excess lubrication drifts by the seal on the driveline and ends up as an overfill in the rear end. It has been the custom over the years to drain some from the rear end and add about the same amount to the U-joint ball area.

Thanks for the picture of the special tool for assembling the U-joint. It works almost as well as the bailing wire.

Final comment on the transmission. As usual, I rebuilt the one in the demonstration car. In addition to using the “yellow snot” on the gear shafts I use SOS (sealed one side) bearings for both the input shaft and the output shaft. With all the attention to the through bolts, yellow snot, sealing of the shafts, and the SOS bearings the leakage can be reduced drastically.

MrMack ,

I personally question the intent of the comment in the instructions that says, “fill the housing“. Since it does not include the word “full”, I read this as a quantity. In my opinion the word “some” is much more accurate.

There is no good place to stop when you start a project such as the one we have been following for months. So, out came the steering mechanism for a complete disassembly, refurbishing, and reinstallation.



This is an exploded view of the 1928 steering sector. This was the first year that ball bearings were used. Prior to this they used a series of washer type discs to adjust the free play. At the top of the picture is the side cover. Directly under it is a spacer that is placed on the end of the gear and shaft. The number of gaskets used on the side cover plate adjusts the side play. The next 6 items are the ball bearings and the races. A set of three are placed on the shaft, one set above the worm gear and one below. In the next row are the end plug, packing and the adjustable rod end support. The end support has a bushing, as does the main housing that supports the steering shaft. These two bushings were removed and new ones made on the lathe. The gear and shaft is also supported by two bushings, one on each end. They were also removed and new ones made to replace them. In the final assembly, the set of races on the right and ball bearings must be placed on the shaft before it is threaded through the housing. The left set is then placed on the end of the shaft prior to the installation of the end support, packing and finally the plug. Inspection of the gear will reveal that only a small portion of the gear is actually used in steering the car. As the end of the gear shaft is splined and not keyed, we can select a completely new and unused portion for the reassembly. Adjustment of the end support is to remove the shaft endplay.

What is not shown in the picture, and is a major component of the steering mechanism, are the three concentric tubes that make up the center of the steering shaft. (The steering shaft is in fact a hollow tube). These tubes are the spark adjust, throttle, and the horn wire sheath. After the steering wheel is installed the assembled tubing is inserted into the hollow steering shaft. The plug, as shown in the above picture, is then tightened to retain the lubrication. Several levers and clamps are installed on the ends of the tubes to complete the installation.

More homework:

What type and how much lubrication is placed in the steering housing when completed?

Heavy Oil! :p

Need a reference. That could be your best guess.

My reference was: Page 52, Owner's Manual, April 1, 1928 and the lubrication chart in the middle of the book. :p

Hey Teacher,
Very good timing on this subject as I just returned from a 200 mile trip in my 28 in gusting winds where I had to fight the car to keep it on the road. How do I remove play in the steering box other than selecting a different set of teeth on the steering sector? I have already tried that. I recently helped a friend adjust the steering box on a 31 model and the procedure involved loosening the cover and turning an eccentric bolt to change the gear lash. Unfortunately the 28 does not have that ability. Some have told me the only way is to fabricate an eccentric bushing for the sector shaft and press it into the proper position.

Thanks,
-R

Another great thread.......SUPER ! Don

Four cylinder steering, I did not intend to go there, but since RustyFender broached the subject, we will go. These instructions are specifically for the 1928 National AB, but most procedures also apply to other vehicles as appropriate.

This subject is best covered in an elimination pattern. Look for the easy answers and work from there.

1. Jack up one front wheel. Place one hand at 12 o’clock and one at 6 o’clock. Push the top in and out. If there is movement, use the special wrench and remove the hubcap. Remove the cotter key and tighten the nut tight. Push the top in and out. If there is still movement consider replacing the kingpins. If no movement make the proper wheel bearing adjustment, replace the cotter key, and replace the cap.

2. Place one hand at 3 o’clock and one at 9 o’clock. Shake the tire again. If movement, observe the tie rod end(s) and see if the movement is there. Watch the steering wheel and see if it moves in concert with the wheel movements. Make notes as to the location of the movement.

3. Lower that front wheel, jack up the other one, and repeat the process.

4. On a flat surface, push the car for a few feet. Let it roll to a stop without using the foot brake. Ask for some help from your supervisor and measure the width of the two front tires on the backside as high up as you can get your measuring device. Make a note of this measurement. Now go to the front and at the same level measure the width there. The front measurement should be 0 to 1/8 inch LESS than the rear measurement. If not correct, loosen the tie-rod ends and rotate the tie-rod to achieve this condition.

5. With the front wheels back on the ground move the steering wheel from side to side. If slack movement is felt, adjustments to the steering box are necessary. Loosen the clamp bolt on the end of the steering column. With the proper spanner tool (or in a pinch a set of large water pump pliers) tighten the worm-adjusting plug. Check the steering wheel movement again. If it still has movement, remove the housing cover. (Place a container under it to catch the heavy oil that is used to lubricate the steering box). Remove one or more of the paper gaskets and replace the cover. Check the wheel again. Either replace the heavy oil or remove additional gaskets. You have now completed almost all the adjustments you can perform on the vehicle.

6. Test drive the vehicle. If the vehicle tends to wander on the road, consideration must be given to removal of the gear box and replace the 4 bushings. In my opinion it is not necessary to try to install the bushings off-center. The movement of the pitman arm shaft to a new and unused set of teeth in effect returns the box back to the factory specifications.

7. If the test drive shows the steering linkage to be tight, and you still have problems with wander, it may be time to find a friend in an alignment shop. No provisions are provided for adjustment of caster and camber on the 4-cylinder vehicles, however by tilting the axle and shimming between the axle and spring perch some adjustment can be accomplished.

8. If none of the procedures outlined above improve the steering and handling, consider checking the NUT behind the steering wheel.

One thing that I have noticed on my 1928 Sedan is that the tires need to be kept fully inflated, to make it steer well. I keep at least 45 psi in them and check the lugs and rimbolts for rusty spots after driving several miles, a rust spot means a lug is loose and the rim is moving against the wheel, new Jaxon clamps are available from several vendors.When you have the wheel jacked up set a reference (hammer handle next to the side of the tire) and rotate it, make sure there is no wobble from a badly aligned or bent wheel or rim.

Thanks for the information. I was referring specifically to problems relating to the steering box itself. In my case, I disconnected the drag link and got a good hand hold on the pitman arm. I can rock it slightly but there is no endplay in either the pitman arm shaft or the steering shaft. This to me means gear lash. With the NUT sitting behind the steering wheel, I have about two inches play in either direction before pitman arm starts to move.

Thanks!
-R

I know that 600w oil is used in the steering box ! but what is the correct amount ? i did not see the answer teacher, to the last part of your question, trying to get some extra point's here!

I have been following this school for over 6 months with great interest. In fact I have printed out all pages to make a fine reference book for future work.
Just going back to the uni joint again, quickly.
I have used successfully for over 25 years, Castrol LMM (Australian terminology, US may be different) graphite grease in my uni with great success. I pack it full.
Another useful hint. A replaced the felt seal in the back of the bell (where it slids up and down the torque tube) with 2 "O" rings side by side. You have to 'lever' out the steel that is used to hold the felt. I also used a large "O" ring on the bell clamp as well. It works well, but is very difficult to keep in place when bolting up.

I had the speedo drive gears made as replacements many years ago. There are some still available through Australian part time Chev 4 parts manufacturer Derek Page, who some of you know. For those who don't and are interested in one. I can get and psot his email address

keep up the good work
Chris

Ray,
What happens if my supervisor refuses to help with the alignment procedure? She doesn't come near the garage when I'm working on the car, (She says I "speak in tongues").
Dan.

I have one of those kinds of "Supervisors" too she thinks I am "talkin'" to her! Here is what I do, I use a couple of the large coffee cans and a length of angle iron, set the coffee cans outside of the wheels and position them where the angle iron will lay on the can like a upside down V really close to the tire and use a strait edge across the side of the tire to mark the angle iron at the rear of both tires, also mark the tire next to the angle iron. Pull the angle iron out and measure the distance between the outside of the tires at the rear, move the cans and angle iron forward and rotate the tire to where the mark on the tires are even with the angle iron measure and compare the front to the rear, and go from there. (if the supervisor comes around she will probably ask if you are crazy, or if you are ever comeing in for lunch.)

PS: If you are rich like Raymondo, Chipper, Boltz and JYD you may want to use 4 coffee cans and two pieces of angle iron, to speed up the process and maybe you won't be late for lunch....!

Definitely cross me off of that list........dogs don't drink coffee! :eek: :eek:

Ok JYD but as much time as you speend down at the dump, you should be able to find a coffee can or two

Nope! Only Coors beer cans.....will those work?? :confused: :confused:

Nope only Folgers in the red can or Hills Bros in the red can, non-leaded won't work as well! and I almost forgot I put a piece of masking tape on my angle iron so I can see the pencil marks.... any more questions?....... or do you want a second opinion?