OK, I’m back with an update just to bore you all 😂 When I removed the freeze plug (disc type) I found that rusty sludge had built up on the stepped design of the machined hole and had caused the very bottom edge to corrode and leak. I don’t think the manufacturer used sealant when fitted. Flushed all the sludge away and now ready to fit another plug. I’m not sure now whether to fit the original design disc or use a dished type plug to get a better sealing purchase (slightly smaller plug diameter. I personally think this was a poor design on the engine to use these disc style plugs in an area of poor access which enables rust sludge to build up in that area (see sketch I’ve drawn to suggest a better way) as the back of the block would have the slowest flow of circulating water from the pump. What are your thoughts?
The original plugs lasted nearly 90 years with less than perfect conditions. Wonder how long a new one will last with attention to using coolant with anti-corrosion properties?
I use permatex No. 2 (non hardening) when installing new plugs. Don't have leaks.
How will you control the depth that you install the smaller plug? Your idea requires that the outside diameter of the plug seals against that inner portion of the head. That means that it must be a very smooth and concentric/round surface.
The original disc plug fit into the shoulder area.
I have always been suspicious of the LUK clutch listings for there older cars. Unless I am missing something there is no way that clutch will fit a '37. That had a lever arm clutch with a flat face throw-out bearing. In 1940 Chevy went to a 6 bolt flywheel.
While it might fit your '38, i would do some measuring to determine if the pressure plate will compress enough that you can tighten it against the flywheel. The Master Parts List has a separate part number for the 1938 "flywheel cover" on cars. The pressure plate itself and the spring were also unique to 1938.
Yes I guess you are right guys, I was over thing things with the plug. I’ve ordered the correct size Welsh plug and the sealant suggested. With regards to the clutch, luckily I’ve got a spare flywheel so I will assemble the new clutch to that and compare my old one with my own flywheel. If it doesn’t look right it’s not going on. I bought it from the US about 2 years ago, so it can’t be sent back anyway. The problem, like anyone outside the USA, is the import taxes and delivery which can make items cost three times their value. Thanks for your help guys, need to get this car on the road….
Done some checks on the clutch kit from LUK, after watching YouTube video of ‘The Jayhawker’ installing the same kit on his 48 Chevy 216. Carried out some quick measurements from old to new, using the same flywheel (which is going for a surface grind at my local machine shop). Diameters and holes and splines all line up, the only difference is the distance of the release bearing fork location, see pics. I’ve looked at my physical alignment and recon I can find adjustment on pedal link chain etc. This clutch is supposed to be an improvement on the original?. I’ll let you know when it’s all back together again. The only thing I haven’t used on the new clutch is the brass bush supposed to be for the crank guide bearing which obviously doesn’t fit the 38 as it has a ball bearing for the gearbox drive shaft end.
Progress report. Took the flywheel to the local machine shop and had it resurfaced. Painted up ready to fit and highlighted timing marks, luckily no damage on the starter teeth. Installed Welsh freeze plug with sealant and knocked centre of the plug in slightly to tighten it into the hole, as per videos I’ve seen (location highlighted behind edge of clutch bell housing). Installed the flywheel to the engine, together with overhauled starter motor etc. Fired her up and let the engine run for 15 minutes at normal temperature to check for leaks, all good 👍. Cleaned and checked gearbox gears and bearings, flushed out with engine oil and drained. Made new rubber gearbox mount, then Painted up ready to install. I didn’t have a new bearing to fit into the flywheel for gearbox shaft support (7109 on this model, not a brass bush) so I found a metric SNR 6202 double shielded in my stock which fits perfect apart from being 2mm more in depth, I’ve checked the other dimensions which are the same and it doesn’t effect the gearbox fitment as I’ve tested it, all good. Off on holiday now, so I’ll report back on this new type clutch once fitted when I’m back.
Back from my hols and had a few dry days so started putting things back together. Just to let people know, the LUK clutch kit I’ve fitted seems to operate correctly and has plenty of pressure on the clutch plate and releases fine under foot. Gearbox refitted with new home made 1/2” rubber mounts and everything lines up fine. Just the torque tube to refit and clamp the axle in correct locations on the springs.
