Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



Visit the new site at vcca.org

Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Rate Thread
#483014 06/27/23 04:25 PM
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 21
Grease Monkey
OP Offline
Grease Monkey
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 21
[b][/b]I just got a 1923 touring and I have found a lot of things that could be 24 and others 1923.The id # is 9D135523. The car has a straight front axel and rods for the brakes no cable. I have been driving a 1928 chevrolet roadster for 64 years that I got when 15 years old and the 23 has a lot that is different. I would like to know when by the ID # it was built.The motor was completely rebuilt and never started . When I try to start it the motor fires and trys but then it either pops back or kickes back and dies. I have tried to change the timing one tooth at a time both wayes but it gets worse or won't fire at all. I need Ideas


Lewis McFadden
Filling Station - Chevrolet & GMC Reproduction Parts


Filling Station


Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 2
Grease Monkey
Offline
Grease Monkey
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 2
According to the Ken Kaufmann study of Chevrolet Production Records the 9D series was used in the 1924 production of Utility Express vehicles, so not sure what you have exactly. Superior production started in late 1923 as the "B series".

Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 21
Grease Monkey
OP Offline
Grease Monkey
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 21
Ken My books show the same. The reason I posted was it came down through a family that I got it from and I have all the records of the work on it for years but the the numbers never looked right. I will check for the numbers on the motor and see what they are. Thanks


Lewis McFadden
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 19,758
Likes: 64
ChatMaster - 15,000
Offline
ChatMaster - 15,000
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 19,758
Likes: 64
Timing is fairly straight forward. Put # 1 piston on top dead center on the compression stroke. Adjust the points so they are just starting to open. Put on the rotor and insert the # 1 spark plug wire into the cap where the rotor is pointing with the spark lever in the full retard position. Engine should start and run a little rough. Advance the timing lever and the engine idle should smooth out and speed increase.

You may have crank/cam timing issue if that does not result in good running. That is assuming the carburetor is clean and function correctly.

Last edited by Rustoholic; 07/02/23 11:45 AM. Reason: changed 'close' to 'open'

How Sweet the roar of a Chevy four!
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 812
Likes: 13
Lou Offline
ChatMaster - 750
Offline
ChatMaster - 750
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 812
Likes: 13
.
Hi Lewis,
Let me try to answer both questions. Your car's picture would be of assistance.
One source of information I have, is Doug Bell's book, "Early Chevrolet History".

The first picture is of the model B Superiors available at the beginning of the 1923
selling season. The Sedanette was a late comer to the line up and not pictured here.

Second picture was the model C called "M" and not Superior.

The third photo is the model D called the Utility Exp, not Superior.
The model D picture #3 was photographed at VCCA Kentucky meet
in August 2022. .

Fourth Photo is the model D's Vin plate. Most 1923 Vins
have no more than 5 numbers behind the letter. There have
been many Chevrolet model "D" over the years starting with
the 1917 V-8. Someone may have used a plate from a newer
vehicle in your car.
The model B & D have a dipped front axle. The 1924 model F
& H have straight front axle. The model C has a straight front axle
that is different than the 24 F & H axle. The 23 model B & D have
engine casting number 327772. The model C engine casting
number is 345.
.
The fifth photo are two 1924 Model H with straight front axles.
Photo taken at 2017 ATHS meet in Plymouth, Ca.

The 1923 models B & D have the oil pump in front of
the engine. 1924 model F & H have the oil pump behind
the generator and distributor.

Photo #6 is 1923 Generator and ignition Distributor.
The oil pump is in front of the engine.

Photo #7 is 1924 Generator, Distributor and oil pump.

The 23 has two spigots on the oil pan to check oil level. 24 has a dip stick.

I hope you can match your touring car to one of these photos.


The 8th and 9th photos might answer the second question.
I took apart a 1927 ignition distributor and was surprised to
find a centrifugal advance inside. If the springs and weights
in your distributor are not in place, it could cause the symptoms
you describe. I assume you checked the firing order and plug
wires.

I assume that you've cleaned the fuel line and filters
of debris and varnish gas that has set in the car awhile. .
.
I hope you get it going, Lou
. .

Attached Images
254 pass line up 1923 .jpg Harrahs-copper-cooled-1.jpg 0243 23D LF.jpg 0246 23D Vin .jpg 4320 1924 Hs.jpg 1923 Gen Dist q.jpg 1924-Gen Dist Qil.jpg _2147-q.jpg _2148-q.jpg
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 21
Grease Monkey
OP Offline
Grease Monkey
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 21
My block # is 327773 and under the exhaust manifold is the # 3418395M. I have gone through the carb on it the gas lines and the tank all are good. I have adjusted all the valves and the are good. The distributor and oil pump are on the back of the generator. It could be some one replaced them. the motor does have a dip stick.The car does look just like a 1923 superior touring and has a round curved cowl rather than straight across. The fly wheel # is 1439305. In my paper trail of it the motor was rebuilt and the head was changed because of a crack that they get in the single exhaust port. They did some work on the housing that holds the distributor. I have checked the timing of the distributor but not the cam and crank shaft yet. thanks


Lewis McFadden

Link Copied to Clipboard
 

Notice: Any comments posted herein do not necessarily reflect the official position of the VCCA.

Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 7.7.5