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Rabaut, Quit messing with the stinking' heat sensor.  You know that you already have a overheating problem as indicated by your instrument gage. You may want to roll up your sleeves and do the tests I suggested. You will soon discover the problem, and then simply fix it. Good luck, Charlie 
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Did another round of temp readings with emiss setting suggested by IR instructions for painted surface, 93. Results were: head surface at sending unit 270, on block 3 points from about middle to above petcock, 171/183/180.
Next step, remove head, observe as much as we can, clean out all the gunk we can, and go from there. Will report back findings but will likely take quite with schedule conflicts. Truly appreciate everybody's comments/input, so valuable. Regards to all.
40ragtop
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While you have the head off and scratching the lower reaches of the block remove the freeze plugs and have a light flow of water, this will float what gunk you scratch up out. Tony
1938 1/2 ton Hope to drive it before I retire
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40ragtop
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Well, I have new information. After thinking the car runs so good and I couldn't possibly have an incorrect head....I learned I do have a miss-match between head and block. I have a 53 block and 40 head. Head number 838773. I don't understand how this mismatch would cause my overheating problems but on the other hand, it can't be good. So cleaning out crud is still on the agenda, but I think I now need to look for 53 head. Is it possible the wrong head could be a significant part of the problem? I should have checked this out years ago! Live and learn, Bob
40ragtop
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Gene Schneider
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Note my April 13 post. The 1940 head will work OK but will result iN a very low compression ratio. HEAD GASKET SaME FROM 1937-1953 i WOULD STILL INSTALL CORRECT HEAD AS THERE MAY BE OTHER RELATED THINGS CAUSING THE OVER HEATING SUCH AS RUST DEPOSITS. The 1941 And up HEAD WILL ALSO REQUIRE DIFFERENT ROCKER AND SHAFTS.
Last edited by Chev Nut; 08/16/23 10:33 AM.
Gene Schneider
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I fully agree. Would you suggest that I limit my search to a 53 head or would a 41-52 head also be considered correct for my 53 block? Any suggestions on where to look for a good head? Thanks, Gene
Last edited by 40ragtop; 08/16/23 12:08 PM.
40ragtop
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1953 216 heads were the same as 1949-1952 216 HEADS.......but will be rather difficult to find as in 1953 only the small trucks had a 216 engine,
Gene Schneider
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40ragtop
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I would probably prefer the 1950 and up head because it will have the 45 degree exaust valves but would not pass on a new 1949 head.
Gene Schneider
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I have found a 50 head still on a car parked 30 years and was running when parked, so I'm told. It will be a couple of weeks before it is removed, and I can go get it. I'll give it a close look but any hints on inspection, what to look for where to pay close attention? I plan to take it to a machine shop, boiled out and replace valves/valve guides. Thanks, Bob
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The shop should magnaflux and pressure test the head and probably will before doing the work.
Dave
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That is wonderful. That way you will have the rocker arms and all the things on top of the head, The 1950 uses the same exhaust valves as small block 8 Cy ngines so good valves Are plentyful and cheap. do not fall for hardened valve seats as they are not ncessAry and their installation could damage the head.
Gene Schneider
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You might think about buying the whole engene, if it is in good condition. Is there a trans? Someone on this web site might be interested.
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Don't know if there is a trans or not. Gene, aren't hardened seats more durable in handling today's gasoline.
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Completely unnecessary on these engines. The only time hardened seats come in to play is when there's high valve spring pressure. These engines are NOT that. I've read and heard many more stories of hardened seats coming loose and ruining an engine than stock seats being pounded down. Unless you're going to run a monster cam and run at high RPM requiring ultra stiff valve springs they will never be needed.
VCCA Member 43216 Save a life, adopt a senior shelter pet. 1938 HB Business Coupe 1953 210 Sedan
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I agree with Tiny
Also, sometimes when cutting the head for hardened seats the machine shop will find a thin spot and cut into the water jacket. It happens. If it happens, you'll be looking for another head. Major disadvantage.
Engine load matters as well. If the engine was pulling a heavy load in a large truck most of the time, there MIGHT be some advantage to installing seats. You won't be doing that. 🙂
When lead was discontinued in gasoline, I know that at least some brands were adding a phosphate based additive that was supposed to perform the same function regarding valves anyway. Long story short... hardened seats aren't worth risking a good head for.
Ole S Olson
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Thanks very much for the education, much appreciated. Bob
40ragtop
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