I think that the line that goes through the fitting is kinked a bit... So the fitting is not sealing around the line. As Chev Nut says, That line that goes through the water jacket and it's leaking.... Something happened to that line to cause this problem...... Maybe the line has been damaged also ..... so a source of an oil leak.....
I dont know how you could repair the leak using shoulder. I dont know if you can heat the joint up hot enough with a soldering iron with that block acting as a heat sink..... Using an open flame..... Prob something that should be only done on independence day here in the states.....
I would vote for replacing the line... they are available from the usual suppliers
I may be wrong, but I think when you install a new line, you still have to solder the new line to the fitting when you are done. If this isn't true, someone please correct me.
Regarding heat, I've almost always used a propane torch for soldering, except when working on really small stuff. I'm still here so far. 🙂
update! I have repaired the leaking oil line and the engine now holds water. I have cleaned the rocker assembly and changed the oil. I have attached an external fuel supply to run the engine. As soon as I start the engine, you can see water droplets flying out of the fuel pump mounting hole: https://photos.app.goo.gl/9eLng8dqoytxbgS86. As before the engine runs fine except for the water flying out. Where can the water be coming from? Do I have a crack in the block? Where?
Back to the earlier posts on this thread. If that's water, there almost certainly has to be a crack/leak directly above the fuel pump eccentric on the camshaft. That lines up with the center of number 2 cylinder bore.
I think you now have no choice but to remove the oil pan, lightly pressurize your cooling system and look for leaks in that area.
I agree with Ole. There is a crack or leak in the block in the area of the fuel pump eccentric. If the head gasket was bad I would expect that you would see steam in the exhaust.
Did you pressurize the cooling system with the #2 piston at Top Dead Center? Or as I suggested manually rotate the engine with the system pressurized. The crack could be associated with #1 or #3. When I look at Figure 117 in the '49-'53 shop manual it looks like the fuel pump is centered between cylinder #1 and #2.
It's hard to tell from here, but it looks like the fuel pump eccentric on the camshaft is actually throwing the water out the hole. Can you verify that?
The running engine is throwing out water out of the hole. I have pressure tested the cooling system but it shows no leaks and holds pressure well. I have investigated with an endoscope the inside of the engine but I can't see any leaks with a stationary engine. The water only shows up with a running engine but how can this happen when the pressure test is good?
I’m late to the discussion but will offer different theory for all to consider. Initially water leaked from the fuel pump weep hole and around the threads of the fitting where the oil line goes through the block. When the engine is shut off the water goes away. These factors might indicate excessive crankcase pressure. When the fuel pump was removed the droplets come out the path of least resistance, the fuel pump hole in the block. The coolant system hold pressure. Could the road draft tube be completely plugged and the water is actually condensation from combustion blow by? How about reinstalling the fuel pump, remove the draft tube and seeing if there is any loss of coolant or accumulation of water in the oil after short run?
Hi Eric, It just pushes into the hole in the block with an interference fit. There is usually a circular clamp around the body that has a tab held in place by one of the oil pan bolts. Once the clamp is unbolted, I use a rubber mallet striking it back and forth from above while pulling out at the same time. Mike
Running the engine a couple of minutes (on an external fuel supply) with no water in the cooling system revealed no leaks.
After adding water and running the engine again I noticed a lot less water droplets coming from the fuel pump hole. I collected the droplets on a piece of paper and after a few minutes there seemed to be no more water droplets, only oil.
I investigated the issue further by sucking fuel through the original fuel pump (again attached to the engine) with an external electric pump but with the engine not running. Fuel was coming through to the electric pump, but at the same time the original fuel pump started leaking from the vent hole. I collected the leaking fluid which was mostly water but had a smell of gasoline.
I suspected water in the gasoline so I drained the fuel tank. First it was proper gasoline but at the bottom I found about 2 liters of water. I suspect that somehow the fuel pump was pushing out water through the vent hole while still pushing enough gasoline to the carburetor. I took the original fuel pump apart and the diaphragm was still intact but felt a bit grainy and looked suspect.
Since the oil is still in good condition since I repaired the oil line I suspect that the source of fuel pump leak is no longer coming from inside the engine but was coming from water contamination in the gas tank. I had a new fuel pump I wanted to install but it seems to be the wrong model (shorter arm).
I'll report back as soon as I have a new fuel pump but I now think there were 2 simultaneous problems: The leaking oil line and excessive water in the gasoline both contaminating the oil with water.
I originally thought the source of the water coming from the fuel pump vent hole had to be water in the gasoline. But the likelihood of the water separating from the gas in the fuel pump and coming out the bottom... and not pumping enough water up to the carburetor to cause obvious trouble there... did seem rather slim.
Hope you've found all your trouble spots. Good luck! 🙂
I have a new fuel pump that doesn't work. When I compare the operating lever with that of the old pump there is a difference (38mm for the old pump and 33mm for the new). The old pump has a glass bowl, the new one doesn't. Can anyone help? Where can I get the correct pump?
Unfortunately this is not an unusual problem with today's replacement/reproduction fuel pumps. No one is making a glass bowl fuel pump. The suppliers try to cover as many applications as they can by cheating on the specs such as stroke/arm length. Check valves are often not well seated and staked. The die cast bodies are warped so the top and bottom will not seal.
Based on my personal experiences and conversations with many others your best solution is to rebuild the pump you have. Or find an original core to rebuild.
Most of the classic car vehicle parts houses sell them. You might also search for a fuel pump rebuilder who will sell the kit they use. There seems to a better chance of getting a good kit from them.
here is a new update: I have rebuild my glass bowl fuel pump and fitted it back on the car. It have run the engine for 15 minutes now and there is no more leaking from the pump. Also there is no mixing of water and oil so it seems my first soldering job was a succes :-) Fingers crossed but it seems that the problem has been solved.
