Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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#476876 12/13/22 05:44 PM
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Trying to get the nut screw loose on the shocks on my 33 master. Have tried a little heat(propane torch) but don't want to cook anything inside. These things are stuck like they are welded on. Any suggestions and or experience removing these? Thanks

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A good 1/2 inch impact wrench and a 6 point socket.


Gene Schneider
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Unfortunately it is a flat screw head

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If you have enough room to get a good swing at it...
try an impact screwdriver like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-29200-Hand-Impact-Tool/dp/B0002NYDRG/ref=sr_1_7?crid=1QBIMHS2QNM1O&keywords=impact+screwdriver&qid=1670980476&sprefix=impact+scre%2Caps%2C126&sr=8-7

Also, buy a set of bits like this:

https://www.amazon.com/ARES-70013-8-Piece-Steel-Impact-Driver/dp/B01JKB1IRS/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=2Q4JB80IIIAXD&keywords=impact+screwdriver+bits&qid=1670980586&sprefix=%2Caps%2C106&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzVEFGRVc3VlM4TEdTJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNTcwMDAzSE9PSlVJMDNDWlhJJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA0MTMzNjAzUklWTElCSjdETlYmd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl

and choose a bit that fits as tightly as possible across the full width of the screw.
Modify/grind one to fit if necessary.

Make sure you have the driver and bit set to the right turning direction,
and that it is good and straight to the screw,
and hit it HARD.
No holding back.

Oh, and make sure the shock is solidly bolted to something or supported so it can't move or turn while you do this!

Hope that helps!

Last edited by Stovblt; 12/13/22 08:27 PM.

Ole S Olson
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I have used a hand impact tool for over 20 years and swear by them to remove stuck screws, nuts and bolts. Sometimes propane torch and PB blaster are also needed.


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A twist to the propane torch idea is to hold the bottom of a candle to the hot screw/bolt. The melted wax wicks into the threads and acts like a lubricant.

Then, try a hand impact wrench, as recommended above, with a bit that fits the slot best.

A good wack of a hammer on the end impact wrench, coupled with the lubed threads, might do the trick.

Cheers, Dean


Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz
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I suggest using a soft faced hammer as the hand impact will get mushroomed with hard steel hammer blows. You can change to harder or larger hammer if the soft one doesn't do the trick.


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The impact hammer in the link above is the best one I have found.

I suggest using a soft faced hammer as the hand impact will get mushroomed with hard steel hammer blows. You can change to harder or larger hammer if the soft one doesn't do the trick. Have destroyed one in the past. Use one nearly everyday taking apart carburetors. About ready to retire a second.


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I have had good luck by alternately heating and cooling parts. If it's small put it in the freezer for a few hours and then remove and heat. Stubborn items may require repeating the process a few times. The process helps to break the bond.


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Good advice on the heating and cooling. My shock plug would not come out and I did the heating, cooling, pb blaster cycle. I ended up using a heavy screw drive bit in my long handled socket and it came loose. It is the heavy bit I use on tie rod ends.

Good luck!

Dave

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I tried heat and a large screwdriver with vice grips etc. and nothing worked. I went to Ocean State and bought the largest screwdriver balde and 3/4 socket combination and used my air impact driver and LIGHTLY bumped the screws out. After rebuild I used some anti-seize on the screws. Hope this helps. Good Luck.


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