After the Chevy finally runs correctly, only the brakes block a successful technical inspection (German law for a road approval) . The brakes pull unevenly and adjusting them brought no success. Without the brake drums I could see that the wheel brake cylinders do not press evenly and in places do not return to the starting position. I also noticed defective wheel bearings and defective seals on the brake drums. My shopping list thus includes wheel bearings, wheel brake cylinder, Axle Shaft seals
Front Wheel Bearings inner - 909002 = Alternativ Brands / National B02 / New Departure 9002 / Filling FS178 Front Wheel Bearings outer - 909001 = Alternativ Brands / National B01 / New Departure 9001 / Filling FS177 Front Seal - 352488 = Alternativ Brands / National 5070 / SKF 18258 / Filling FS202 Fr. Brake Cylinder left = Alternativ Brands / Raybestos WC3731 / Dorman W3731 / Centric 134.62076 / Filling FS 105L Fr. Brake Cylinder right = Alternativ Brands / Raybestos WC3730 / Dorman W3730 / Centric 134.82024 / Filling FS 105R Rear Wheel Bearing - 111119+111120 = Alternativ Brands / SKF R1500EL (without inner Ring?!) / Timken R 1500EL (incl. inner Ring?!) / Filling FS316+316R Oil Seal Axle Shaft - 3663166 = Alternativ Brands / SKF 15557 / Timken 450666 / Filling FS-219 Re.Brake Cylinder - 5300866 = Alternativ Brands / Raybestos WC3396 / Dorman W3396 / Centric 134.66032 / Filling FS 104 Gasket Wheel Hub and Drum Oil Deflector, Front and back the Same?! - 365673 = Alternativ Brands / Filling AF365
Would be nice if you could confirm part numbers or have ideas for alternatives. Since I am ordering from Germany, I would like to make sure I am ordering the right one.
In the previous owner's parts package I found bearings from MBS. 909001R - seems to be the tapered roller bearing from 909001? Can I use this or do I need other modified parts? 909052R - also a tapered roller bearing, but according to the parts list more for Chevy 46-50? Correct? Last question. Can anyone tell me the thickness of the brake drum seals? I would like to make them myself from gasket paper. Thanks a lot.
I am sorry to hear that your are having braking issues. I know that you were hoping to be able to drive the car frequently after the carburetor was adjusted properly.
I know that the part numbers for the brake cylinders and ball bearings are correct. You need to be aware that any “new” replacement brake cylinders are probably made in China regardless of the marketing brand name. That does not mean they are necessarily bad, but quality does vary. I also expect that even if you buy different marketing brand names the cylinders come from the same source.
Based on your description it appears that one of the pistons is stuck on a front brake cylinder. Unfortunately that is often what happens when these great older cars sit over the winter. Any slight moisture in the brake fluid creates galvanic action between the aluminum piston and the cast iron bore of the brake cylinder.
There are 2 tricks I use to prevent this. At least once a month over the winter (and more often if I remember) I pump the brake pedal hard at least 3 times. The other step is that I completely flush the brake system with new fluid at least once every 2 years. This will minimize the moisture that is absorbed into the brake fluid.
It is a matter of personal preference if you convert your car to tapered roller bearings for the front wheels. It is easy to make the change. I have not made the change on my ‘37. If you do, make sure you confirm the proper adjustment procedure. It can be a little confusing about whether a tapered roller bearing should have preload on it or not.
There is no substitution or conversion for the rear axle bearings. I assume that you are referring to the outboard roller bearings.
Hopefully others with more knowledge and experience will also respond.
The Car didn´t drive since 2016 - so its ok when the brake have issues i think ;-). I am using Silicone Brake fluid, so Water should be no problem. The rear bearing i mean is Number 5.855 in the manual picture - think this is what you mean with outboard roller bearings? By the way - can i use the centric cylinder? They are much cheaper than dorman by Rockauto and when they are all the same quality ?!
If you are talking about replacing the rear axle bearings, it would be good to think about the fact that the inner race is the axle itself. If the bearing is failing, the inner race probably is too.
My 1951 1 Ton is now on the road! My 38 Master 4 Door is also now on the road .
Two years ago I ordered and installed a complete set of four centric wheel cylinders on my 1948. To date, I have been very happy with their performance but can’t speak to longevity. Recently I decided to do the same on my 1941 so I tried to order four more. It appears that right fronts are no longer available in the centric brand but are listed under the more costly brands. As previously mentioned, I would guess they are all made in China but with different labels.
If grease is leaking from the rear axle seals this may help. I found that the surface on the 41 axles was quite pitted in the sealing area. Timpken KWK 99157 repair sleeves were installed over the pits using an appropriate length and diameter of exhaust pipe as a driver. The sleeve was pushed on to the axle far enough to avoid interfering with the bearing. Again these comments are for 1941 and 1948 but the diameter and width of sealing surface area in the 1940 may be the same. If not, repair sleeves are available in different dimensions.
In fact, I have oil from the axle in the brake and therefore want to change the seal. Replacing the outer bearing would be a purely precautionary measure, since I already have open there. Problems with the bearing I have so far no, so rather „never touch a running system“?
P.S: After reading again the post from old216,I understand it now, there is no bearing inner ring, because the rollers run on the axle shaft! P.P.S: "SKF Speedy Sleeve" i did for the Crankshaft. Its a good idea for the axle seals as preventive buy.
I apologize for not responding sooner. I will share my observations and ideas.
With respect to brake cylinder brands, it is really difficult to predict the results. In most cases almost any brand will work in these old vehicles. About 5 years ago we installed the Centric brand wheel cylinders and master cylinder in my friend’s ‘49 3100 pickup. They are operating very well with not indications of leakage.
I have also used the Centric brand rebuilt brake calipers in a newer car and they worked well. I was not satisfied with the Centric brand brake pads that came with the calipers. They did not grab as well as I wanted so I replaced them after a few years even though they were not badly worn.
My main caution is that all of these aftermarket companies are constant changing their sources. So you cannot say that what was a “good” brand 2 years ago will be the same today. Currently I have been buying Dorman branded products and am pleased with their quality. On the other hand my experience the last few years with Moog (mainly suspension and steering) is very disappointing
I would wait until you have the rear axle out before you determine if the bearing needs replaced. Then you can also better determine if you need the sleeve to repair the shaft surface where the seal contacts it. With respect to the bearings I like your idea to not change something if it is working correctly.
Hello Rusty, no worrys. Unfortunately don't have time to wait, because I can't leave the car disassembled on the lift for weeks. We are several classic car friends who share a workshop with hydraulic lift. So I have now ordered everything. A mistake it is certainly not and reordering would be much more expensive with shipping and tax. I have to look that I always put together large packages ;-)
I knew that you had a different work situation but could not remember the details. Thank you for that information.
I also agree that the situation with shipping for you requires a different approach. Even within the U.S. now our shipping costs have increased enough that I wait until I can submit a larger order. Or I guess what I will need and add to an order.
Andre - the part you have listed from COF is for trucks. My '40 originally had them on the rear drums but they have long since turned to dust and were never replaced. It had the gaskets back in 1964 when I got the car but the first time I changed the rear shoes they fell apart and I never replaced them. I've put about 360,000 miles on it since without negative effects. The car still has it's original seals and axle bearings. But, I did have a '70 Chevelle that had the gasket on the rear drums. Those gaskets were paper about the thickness of a postcard. Thickness similar to the water pump gasket.
Hello Mike, great to hear from you. Hipe all is fine. The gasets are for cars also 😉 https://www.chevsofthe40s.com/shop/search.lasso?partno=365673&Go=Go On the legt site there is no gasket at the moment, because there it was just like you. At the last brake check it also came to me piece by piece and then I did everything clean and let them away. Only if I now make everything new I can also make two new seal out of gasket paper, is no effort
Now the parts for the rear axle arrived. There is one question. The Oil seal is National and Timken 5070. They are with a felt lip and not like a modern oil ring who i know from my work as industrial mechanic. Do they have to be wetted with oil before mounting, or is it mounted dry? The mounting direction does not matter?
I generally soak some oil into the felt though i dont think it will make much difference in the long run. i would mount it with the least joints to the outside. Tony
Any felt seals I've installed were to be soaked in a heavy oil before being installed.
As for direction to install, if there appears to be a smoother shielded side, and a more open side, install with the smoother shielded side out (towards the open air).
thanks, that will help. Another question. When i look at these Pictures from the Chevy Manual http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1941/41csm092.htm It looks like, that i can change the gasket between axle housing and differential carrier without disassembling the bearing and without needing to adjust anything afterwards? The axle shafts have to be removed anyway, so only the axle housing has to be separated from the car?!.
Now i am on work. The gasket at the Brake drums original are 0,25mm. But i think its ok when i use 0,75 gasket paper. The Cover gasket is original 1,5mm, same as the new one from best gasket 10011E
Puh, at the first moment i‘ve got a shock. Thougt i had the Wrong Seal for the real axle. But the felt Ring 5070 is for the front 450666 is the right one ☝️
Now it’s time to install the new wheel bearings, but I still have a few questions that are not explained in the manual. The bearings must be greased, that's clear. But what about the space between the two bearings? Do you put a little grease on the axle shaft? What about the dust cap? How much grease goes in there?
If you are talking about front wheel bearings, yes force some grease between the balls / rollers of both bearings. I put a generous amount of grease (about level with the outer edge of the rollers) inside the hub as well, it may not do anything in its life but prevents any melting out of the bearings. Tony
