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I have a Yankee Turnflex Model 730/6 add on turn signal unit. It came with my 1950 when I purchased the car. I am trying to clean it up and get it working again but I am hitting a brick wall. After taking it apart, I cleaned all the terminals and checked all seven wires to for continuity with a multi meter. After taking it apart many times and reassembling it, the best I can get out of it is the four-way flashers work fine BUT the left & right turn signal do not flash - just light up. The flasher unit is brand new. I am using single filament bulbs to test because there is no brake switch involved. In the attached photos, you can see the four bulbs lit up in the four-way flasher mode (they are really flshing in this photo), but now the turn signals don't even light.







Would like to talk with someone who actually has lived my pain. What am I missing? Thanks

Is there an indicator light on the switch? Does it flash?

The wiring diagram does not show how the switch is grounded. Typically the ground circuit is completed when the switch housing is clamped to the steering column.

That might be necessary for the system to operate properly.

I think the flasher unit needs bigger bulbs (bigger = more Watts).
If You have a bimetal type flasher unit, it is very important to match the unit and bulb Watts. Or You need an electronical LED compatible unit.
Mihaly

I had similar problem with my new bimetal type flasher unit. I have this one now:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/181922811196
It works excellent.

Good point Tiredoil. I missed that.

A mechanical flasher works because the current flowing through it heats up the bi-metallic strip which opens the circuit. When the strip cools it closes the circuit.

Conventional flashers often do not work when someone installs LED bulbs in place of incandescent ones. They do not draw enough current to make the strip get hot.

Yes. Those bulbs are tiny. TiredOil nailed it. You need to use the big filaments in dual filament tail/stop bulbs, or single filament backup or signal bulbs.

Tail or park light filaments will also be too small.

other option would be inline resistors for load
i bought an LED signal light and it came with a resistor block installed inline in order to put a load on the flasher unit. since i am running a modern electronic flasher i did not need the inline resistor blocks.

I think the resistor block have to be installed paralell to put enogh load. It is good for LED and tiny incadescent bulbs. But You have to be very precise to calculete its OHM
Mihaly

If you are using a mechanical flasher, try a solid state flasher before anything else. I don't know if they are available for 6 volts.

Mike

The grounds are good. The indicator light flashes opposite of when the light bulbs flashes in the 4-way mode. There is no brake switch or lights involved at this point so no double filament bulbs are needed. The bulbs that are lighting up are #51's which is the same bulb in the indicator. The problem is that the 4-way mode works BUT the right & left turn bulbs only light. They do not flash. So, the new flasher unit does work. The problem is in the unit itself. I appreciate all the comments and suggestions. Attached are photos of the unit and its components. Back to my original question. Has anyone taken apart a Yankee Turnflex Model 730/6 and SUCCESFULLY put it back in working order? I probably have something in the wrong order, or something needs to be turned or flopped. Thank You.

I'm no expert but I'm thinking that you should probably try a heavier filament bulb or an electronic flasher. My thinking is similar to those stated above. A bi-metal flasher depends on resistance to create the load necessary to cycle. The four 'light resistance' bulbs may be providing the necessary resistance together to activate the flasher in 4 way mode but not otherwise. It's an easy check, just substitute BA15 double contact sockets and bulbs and see if it works normally then.

I agree with Tiny and Mihaly. The fact that 4 way works is the clue.

Do a simple test. Wire all 4 bulbs so they will flash when you activate left or right. I bet things will work.

#51 bulbs are not enough load.

You can chek Your signal switch with multimeter. Check the contact from black wire to yellow and orange wire, if You turn left. And chek the contact to black wire to green and brown wire, if You turn right.
You can check Your flasher unit without signal switch. Connect 2 bulbs direct to flesher unit L point, than connect 4 bulbs to it.
Mihaly

Or You can check the signal switch with Your test device without flasher unit. Connect the positive power wire direct to the black wire.

Simply put...4 bulbs may create enough resistance to energize your flasher, 2 bulbs might not. You can rearrange your wiring to make all bulbs light for RH function, the re-scramble wiring for LH function. If this works, problem solved. A solid state flasher should solve this problem or the bulbs on the car might be all that is needed to make everything work.
I like your test bench. It is a bit more tidy than mine.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/NfCYNxohkppppCTF6

Mike

If you want to check out what they are telling you is probably the cause, try the four way mode with only the same number of bulbs used in the single flasher mode. So in other words remove say both right turn bulbs and try the four way operation. I am betting they won't blink.

I looked into the wiring diagram and the photos to understand how this signal switch works.
IT WORKS WITH SINGLE FILAMENT BULBS, BECAUSE IT IS A SINGLE WIRE SYSTEM. Even if the brake swith is connected to it.
If the brake swith is NOT connected, it works, like a normal 3 way switch (zero, left, right).

If the brake switch is connected:

1. No turn, the BRAKE IS APPLIED
THE LEFT REAR AND RIGHT REAR LAMP LIGHT UP.

2. Left turn, the BRAKE IS APPLIED
the left front and left rear lamps flash, AND THE RIGHT REAR LAMP LIGHTS UP.

3. Right turn, the BRAKE IS APPLIED
the right front and right rear lamps flash, AND THE LEFT REAR LAMP LIGHTS UP.

The four-way flasher switch is very simple. It connects the black wire with all four wire, what go to the lamps.

YOU NEED DOUBLE FILAMENT BULBS, IF YOU HAVE TAIL LIGHT IN THE LAMPS.

Mihaly

And I see on the photos, that You put back the signal switch in right order. I assume, the springs push the contact surfaces one to another.
#51 bulbs are good for indicator lamp, but not good for signal lamps.
Mihaly

Here is a simple test.

Connect the flasher unit directly to 2 of your test bulbs. Then connect it to all 4.

Let us know the results.

This project is on hold for now. Until I can chat with someone who actually worked in this specific turn signal unit, it will stay on the work bench. When I took it apart initially, I had my camera ready to take a photograph for reference. Unfortunately, the switch inside exploded like a Jack in the Box sending pieces everywhere. I have tried many different combinations, but it still is not correct. Doing any of the suggested tests would be like trying to adjust a carburetor with no gas in the tank. Thanks to everyone who offered help - it is appreciated.

My test does not require the switch. It completely eliminates the switch so you know if the flasher unit is sensitive to load.

You are direct wiring the flasher to either 2 or 4 bulbs.

Well, I wish you the best getting it back together and sorted out,

The actual problem you were experiencing was solved by TiredOil way back near the beginning of the thread. Those bulbs in your picture are tiny little dashlight bulbs, and they do not draw anywhere near enough current. I'm surprised the 4 ways worked.

Flashers were sold for the number of bulbs used, but it wasn't really the number that mattered. It was the total current draw that mattered. They just assumed standard signal light bulbs when they rated the flashers. Usually two bulbs (at a time), but some cars have three. Adding 4-ways upsets this, and 4 ways back in the day used a second flasher in part because there were twice as many bulbs and twice as much current. My guess is they have this dialed in enough to get by on one flasher, but I'll still bet the blinking is going to be a different speed with the 4 ways on.

It is a well known issue with thermal flashers, and it is the reason that cars with one burned out bulb either refuse to flash or flash way too fast on the side with the bad bulb. It is also the reason sometimes a different flasher was needed for towing, as the trailer added more bulbs.

The good news is when you figure out how to put it back together, it should work fine when you install it and connect it to some real signal light bulbs. Best of luck with your signal light project.

After taking this unit apart several more times, I finally found the correct combination of parts. I replaced the #51 bulbs with #1154 and this unit is working correctly in turn signal mode as well as 4-way flashing. Thanks again for all the input.

I'm glad you got it figured out.